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3-Jan-2008
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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
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approach vs. inarch grafting for maple nebari
Hello,
I have a trident maple that I'm gearing up to graft seedlings to for nebari improvement. http://stevesbonsai.com/trees/trident.htm After much reading I've come to the following quandry: is inarch grafting just as reliable/easy/difficult as inlay approach (and/or thread) grafting? It would seem that an inarch graft would heal with much less visible scarring that gives away the graft over time. I would be very grateful to hear from someone who has experience with this. Thanks in advance, Steve
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---------------------------------------------------------------------------- "You are lost the instant you know what the result will be." - Juan Gris ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- www.bonsaix.com |
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approach vs. inarch grafting for maple nebari |
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Forum Sponsor
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5-Jan-2008
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#2 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
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I'm relatively new to grafting, but my intuition tells me that approach grafting is a safer choice. I'd still love to hear about anybody's experience w/ inarch grafting..
Thanks, Steve
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---------------------------------------------------------------------------- "You are lost the instant you know what the result will be." - Juan Gris ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- www.bonsaix.com |
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5-Jan-2008
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#3 |
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PeterW
Join Date: Jan-2007
Location: Buderim, Queensland.
Country: Australia
Posts: 182
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I am also considering this with my Trident Maple, after reading as much as i can on it, i am going to get some trident saplings to use next week. Keep us informed of your progress Steve.
Good Luck Peter |
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8-Jan-2008
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
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bump
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---------------------------------------------------------------------------- "You are lost the instant you know what the result will be." - Juan Gris ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- www.bonsaix.com |
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8-Jan-2008
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#5 |
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PeterW
Join Date: Jan-2007
Location: Buderim, Queensland.
Country: Australia
Posts: 182
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Grafting book
"The Grafters Handbook" seems to be the way to go Steve. I am tracking down a copy of it. Everyone says its the bible for grafting.
Peter. |
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8-Jan-2008
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#6 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
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thanks Peter.
I picked up a copy of the grafters handbook myself - and that's where I read about inarch grafting. Its just that I'm not finding that anyone has experience w/ it, so I'm afraid to try it myself.. Steve
__________________
---------------------------------------------------------------------------- "You are lost the instant you know what the result will be." - Juan Gris ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- www.bonsaix.com |
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8-Jan-2008
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#7 |
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PeterW
Join Date: Jan-2007
Location: Buderim, Queensland.
Country: Australia
Posts: 182
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Try it on something of less potential first. Have some confidence in your ability.
Keep us updated with your progress and we will learn together Steve. Good Luck Peter. |
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8-Jan-2008
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#8 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
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thats good advice - thanks Peter.
I'll update my tree journal after the grafts are in place later this month: www.stevesbonsai.com/trees/trident.htm -s
__________________
---------------------------------------------------------------------------- "You are lost the instant you know what the result will be." - Juan Gris ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- www.bonsaix.com |
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8-Jan-2008
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#9 |
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bonsaitalk monk
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i would do what peter said and try it on some less quality stock. that's what i did the first few times to practice grafting and air layering. i don't have any photos of the grafts i have done, but you can do it. most of the trees i worked on took the grafts really well especially maples, that's about all i graft now(mainly japanese maples). good luck
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eat a bonsai for breakfast. |
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16-Jan-2008
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#10 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
Join Date: Dec-2007
Location: Granite Bay, Ca.
Country: United States
Posts: 13
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Grafting made easy!
Purchase some trident seedlings anywhere from 1/8" to 1/4" in diameter, in good health, that have alot of roots. Make a verticle slot at the soil line where you want to place roots. This slot must be the same diameter as the seedlings about 1 1/2" to 2" long. Cut the backside of the seedling that will face the trunk to expose the inner wood and cambium layer, push it into the slot so the new roots of the seedling are below the soil line. Secure the seedling with a small nail , stick pin or wrap the seedling and the trunk with green plastic nursery tape. Seal the wounds to keep out the bad stuff. That's it!! Root grafting. The trunk will heal and close around the seedling. When the trunk has healed take a pair of small knob cutters and remove the top of the seedling. Don't be afraid! If you don't try you won't succeed!!
Doc |
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