Which tool to use?

TinyTree

I have a red maple and I want to remove a few branches that are 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch thick. Is that too large for concave cutters? They're in tight places, perfect for cutters but I wouldn't be able to get a big saw in there. What else can I use?

Thanks

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Jay

TT,
There are several sizes of concave cutters. They range from the very small to the extremely large. The size branches you are talking about should be no problem for the average (what ever that means) size concave cutter.

Jay

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Graydon

Rule of thumb - the maximum branch size you can remove in one whack with your concave cutters is just under 1/2 of the cutting face.

Another option is to use regular garden bypass pruners to cut the branch leaving a stub and then go back and chew off smaller pieces in a more controlled method using the concave cutters.

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TinyTree

Thanks for your replies. I guess now comes the $60k question......It's now April 3rd, my tree just emerged from dormancy and the first leaves haven't yet developed into full leaves yet. Is it too late to take off these 'larger' branches? The branches suffered winterkill from our deep winter and have to come off.

Thanks again

node

You say red maple, but it's unclear whether you mean acer rubrum, acer ginnala, acer palmatum etc., all can be red.

In general it is not recommended to do any hard pruning on Japanese maples in spring, due to excessive bleeding which can weaken the plant.

Wait until the end of june, or sometime around the longest day. The sapflow won't be as strong and with the growth spurt after the summer dormancy the scars will begin to heal nicely.

Acer rubrum and acer ginnala are a lot hardier, and can be pruned in spring without problem.

Do use woundpaste, don't leave it out in the sun after pruning and adjust your watering practices accordingly.

Stefan

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TinyTree

Sorry about that.....I don't know it's formal name other than a japanese red maple.(I think it's palmatum)
So at this point the best time to prune the large branches is around the end of June? Or the summer solstice?

I'm going to transplant it tonight(only move it to a slightly larger container,not root prune or disturb rootball) in hopes to stimulate new growth. With this in mind, can I still prune the large branches this year in June? I can see where the discoloration begins and the 'green' of the live part ends. I want to cut at that line,correct?

I apologize if my questions seem stupid, I'm a little bummed because this was my prized tree and now I have to start all over training again.

Thanks for all your help.

node

I see you're in zone 5. Ideally someone from you climate should chip in. Where I live maples go into a semi-dormant state during the hottest time of the year. That is the time to prune for me here, usually end of june start of juli. Fall pruning works for me as well, as the first frost is usually very late in the year.

With the possibility of a late freeze spring pruning maples always feels a gamble here.

__________________
Whenever you find that you are on the side of the majority, it is time to reform. - Mark Twain
Never let your sense of morals get in the way of doing what's right. - Isaak Asimov
The most savage controversies are those about matters as to which there is no good evidence either way. - Bertrand Russell

TinyTree

Thanks Node for your replies.


Anyone from zone 5 chip in some expertise


I'll need to remove these branches for sure. It'll totally change the shape of my tree and I'll have to start all over. Can I remove these larger branches in mid summer or should I just wait until next dormant season?

Thanks in advance.

Repotter

Mid summer is fine. I have pruned mine at various times of the year with no ill effects.
I just pruned my Bloodgood which is in the ground. I only pruned the ends of the branches leaving one set of buds.

Last year I pruned my Trident in midsummer to get rid of some unsightly growth and it responded with new growth which hardened off by fall.
So have no worry about the pruning in late June.

To prevent winter damage in the future try keeping it on the south side of your house or a fence that will block the wind. Branches can get "freeze dried" with the north winds.

I am in zone 5 as well here in S. Michigan.

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