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#1 |
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Bonsai Doer
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Dai Hard?
No Dai easy! Making a stand for your favorite stone should not be something that takes months to complete.
For this exercise today, I will cut a stone, construct a daiza and finish it in one sitting. Complete time for this project was about 3 hours. Daiza is a Japanese word meaning "table or stand". All Bonsai or suiseki are displayed on daiza. Yes, even the traditional bonsai stand is called a daiza. This stone is probably basalt. It was collected by Joe James in the Eel river near the California, Oregon border. The stone is very hard, cold black, and worn very smooth. Just as it is it is very beautiful. I hope to improve it with this project. This stone fits easily in the palm of my hand.
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I been kidding the last seven years. no.... really! |
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#2 |
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Bonsai Doer
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I mark the stone with some blue masking tape as a reference line while running the stone through the wet diamond saw.
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I been kidding the last seven years. no.... really! |
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#3 |
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Bonsai Doer
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I decided I could get two stones out of the same rock. The second one is not as good, but may become something I can trade out or sell to someone that likes it.
I tried to shoot the stones so that you could see the profiles I was aiming for.
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I been kidding the last seven years. no.... really! |
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#4 |
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Bonsai Doer
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I used the piece of mahogany that came out of the "hole" I cut in the base of the tri level stand. The stones are just placed on the wood and traced around with a ball point pen.
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I been kidding the last seven years. no.... really! |
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#5 |
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Bonsai Doer
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Since this piece of wood is only about 6" x 8", it was just too small to hold while doing the routing. I countersunk two screws in oposite corners into a large piece of 3/4" plywood. This will hold the whole thing solid to the table while I rout.
The router is set up with a carbide 3/8" flat cutter without bearing.
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I been kidding the last seven years. no.... really! |
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#6 |
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Bonsai Doer
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I set the depth at 3/32" and routed just to the line. Once the outline is carved, I rout out all the inner material. Once this is done I can check for fit.
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I been kidding the last seven years. no.... really! |
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#7 |
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Bonsai Doer
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The stone is checked against the cut and excess material is cut away if needed with a sharp xacto knife. Sometimes only a sliver of wood is cut away for an exact fit. The stone should fit the recess easily and not be so tight as to not take the stone out easily.
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I been kidding the last seven years. no.... really! |
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#8 |
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Bonsai Doer
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I cut out the other recess and checked it for fit. Once I had the stones fitting properly, I turned my attention to preparing the bottom for the legs.
This is the tricky part. This demonstration is by no means the only way to make these darned things, and the sequence I show is the way I make them. If you find this easy, Great! if this does not make sense and you have a better way, please post the way here, I would be most grateful. I drill a small hole outside the outline of the stone. I do this in each place I want a leg. I then turn the board over and estimate where each leg will be and make a 1/2" circle there. I use the drilled hole as a referance point. I crudly mark the outline of the stone and get ready for the router.
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I been kidding the last seven years. no.... really! Last edited by bonsaial1 : 24-Oct-2003 at 01:46 AM. |
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#9 |
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Bonsai Doer
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I use a felt pen and darken each circle in to a 1/2" dot. I route away all the material except for each "dot". I set the depth of the cutter at 3/16".
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I been kidding the last seven years. no.... really! |
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#10 |
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Bonsai Doer
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With the top and bottom complete, it is time to cut the individual dai from the board. This can be done with a coping saw, jigsaw, or bandsaw. I opt for the bandsaw. I cut the pieces out coming to within 1/8" of the outline of the stone. This does not have to be perfect. Just close. The closer the cut the less material will have to be removed by hand. Just don't slip and take too much, you can't put it back.
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I been kidding the last seven years. no.... really! |
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