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September's Pots..the Beginning

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Old 18-Sep-2003   #21
muddslinger
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Hi Jay,
I've made a few pots specifically for testing, here's what I plan to do:

Immerse an unglazed pot in water for 24 hours, then toss it in the freezer for 24 or more hours, take it out, soak it again and repeat. Probably for several months.

I made some without holes that I'll fill with water, freeze thaw and freeze again.

Some I'll fill with wet soil and do the same freezer cycle.

I'll fill some with soil and put them outside, unprotected and in my coldframe.

And I may give a few away or sell 'em real cheap and ask for feedback.

Best,
Kevin
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Old 18-Sep-2003   #22
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OK, I have a couple of pots that cracked during firing. Do you think they would give a true test to this?
The pots are fine just have the crack

J
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Old 18-Sep-2003   #23
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Jay,

Yes, ^6 is considered the minimum temp for "durable" pots.

I'm not so sure even a ^10 pot will survive Kevin's testing regime. Simple fact is expanding water will crack a pot as it freezes. Simple physics- water expands, stoneware contracts!

Ask anybody up North, most will say they've lost pots when the tree was in an unprotected environment.

That's a less than ideal place to overwinter for both a bonsai AND a pot!

I think the first test is the critical one- low fire ware like teerra-cotta falls apart even here after a few seasons due to water absorption...

Kinda like saying will bouncing a hammer on a pot break it? Maybe not the first time, or the second but eventually it's gonna crack no matter what the clay or cone...

Sincerely,

Jim Stone
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Old 18-Sep-2003   #24
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Nice pots. Let us know when you start selling them
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Old 18-Sep-2003   #25
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Jay,
I would think that a pot that already has a crack in it wouldn't give a good indication of how well your good pots are going to hold up. You can be pretty sure that the cracks will get bigger if you wet & freeze them.

bnsaijim,
I know my tests are pretty overboard, but I want to know just how much abuse a clay body can take. I like to make pots that you don't have to be too careful with. I guarantee all my work 100% against breakage under reasonable treatment. I've had several (glazed on the inside) pots survive being filled with various liquids by my daughter and left in the freezer or outside through several Maine winters.
Of course any pot will break if subjected to harsh enough conditions. Being new to bonsai, I want to be able to assure people that my pots will last in case anybody should want to buy them.

Best,
Kevin
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Old 26-Sep-2003   #26
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Kevin, a new day brings new NEWS. The two pots that I have been freezing/thawing/freezing in the icebox are still A OK, even the one with cracks, the cracks have not changed in size at all. I will be trying them with soil and freezing next.

Also the next round of pots are coming, far better than the last disasters but not like yours. I stopped to think about it and have come to the conclusion that I have chosen to produce rough looking pots from the beginning, go back and look at some of the originals. The ones you have are bordering on fine pottery, they are REAL nice. I do not pretend to know if one way is more desired than the other but when this next group is ready, pictures will follow.

I am also, with the aide of my teacher making a bisque mold for a rectangular pot. If the mold comes out and if the pots made from it are good I will be posting them. A lot of IFS.... I can see my ability improve each month I do this, not day to day but slowly over the month. I believe with your pottery knowledge you will be turning out top draw pots in no time, possible you are already.

Jay
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Old 27-Sep-2003   #27
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Hi Jay,
Great news! I'm confident both our pots will weather just fine. I've put a couple of unglazed pots (stoneware and porcelain) full of water in the freezer and they're fine so far. I'll do some more extensive testing as time permits. I plan to offer the same 100% satisfaction guarantee I do with all my pots. If a buyer feels the pot broke too easily, I'll replace it.


It's great to watch your work improve with each firing, isn't it? I look forward to seeing your next batch.
I'm sure there are a lot of opinions on how much and what kind of finishing should go into a pot, but I think it's just a matter of preference. Most of my pots are pretty smooth and carefully finished. I just can't help it; I keep fussing with a pot until it's just right. I have made and do enjoy making roughly textured pots, but I usually have to restrain myself from fussing when I do those or they loose their spontaneity. I think a potter should have the ability to finely finish a pot, even if they choose to make mostly rough work. I know several potters who think it’s important to give the impression of hand made work by leaving “evidence of the potter’s hand”, I’m one of them, but I choose to do it subtly; some nice tight throwing rings on the inside, a slight fingerprint here and there and such.
You should make what you enjoy and there will be someone (somebody’s mother will love it) who will buy it, if not you’ll have something you like.

I’m curious to hear more about your bisque mold. Is it a “hump” or “slump” mold? I’ve made some hump molds and did a few bonsai pots with them, (I’ll post them tomorrow), but mine are of plaster. I make a form of clay, then smear it with Vaseline and pour the plaster in. That way I can make a bunch.
You’re right, there are a lot of Ifs when working with clay, that’s what draws me to it. It’s very rewarding when all the Ifs fall into place and you pull a beautiful, warm pot (or 50) from the kiln.
Best,
Kevin
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Old 29-Sep-2003   #28
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Kevin, the mold that we are making is either a 'slump' or 'hump' mold. It is being developed so as to be able to make a pot from either the inside or the outside. You understand this far better than I. I am learning as I go. The mold will be trimmed and bisque fired within a week. Hope to be making pots from it starting next week.

Jay
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Old 29-Sep-2003   #29
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A fired mold, interesting idea.

As with mudslinger any molds I have made in the past were all plaster. They always gave me trouble with releasing after the clay had dried to leather hard, that and because they don't give as the piece dries they also caused a lot of cracking if I wasn't paying attention and didn't take them off at just the right time

I do use foam rubber forms sort of as a slump mold to let some of my thrown and altered pieces 'rest' upside down on (the ones I have problems with warping and sagging of walls or bottoms) and find they are fine for that.

I'd be interested in hearing your expereince with your bisqued mold when its ready. Keep us posted.
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