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Selecting a kiln size

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Old 3-Mar-2006   #1
darrellw
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Selecting a kiln size

I'm starting to get real serious about pottery (like getting the wheel and putting a sink in the garage wasn't serious enough) and have been looking into kilns.

Because I'm going to need to move the kiln around, I want one that has a plug, and that limits me to 50 amp kilns. I also want to be able to fire cone 10, though I haven't found a definiate answer if cone 6 stoneware is frostproof or not. And because the local store carries Skutt (they also happen to be built locally as well), that is the brand I plan to get, though the sizing is pretty standard.

Based on that, the biggest kiln I can get would be 7 cu ft, with a 23" x 27" chamber. But there is also a 6.6 cu ft model, with 28" x 18" chamber. I realize that I'll lose 2" of the height, but right now I'm thinking that the extra width might be more useful, at least for bonsai pots. I'll probably play with making other stuff, but it seems like 16" would be plenty tall for anything I can think of right now. I could also save a bit with an even smaller kiln (4.6 cu ft, 23" x 18" or even 2.6 cu ft, 17" x 18", but I think I might outgrow those too quickly). I should say that I don't think I'll ever make more that one or two pieces a week.

So, has anyone "been there, done that" and have any words of wisdom on what a useful size would be? Cost really isn't an issue with any of the kilns in that size range, though I'd rather spend less if there isn't a reason to spend more. But I also don't want to end up with a too little kiln in a year or two.

So right now I'm leaning toward the 28" x 18" chamber, even though I can't picture making anything that wide at the moment.
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Old 3-Mar-2006   #2
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Darrell, I can't speak to the kiln size, but I can tell you that on the kiln I use (a Cress FX23) the best and most important part is the electronic controller. Mine ramps up automatically, and can be set for slow or fast. The Skutts with the fancier controllers may be able to be programmed for soaks, etc. and you might find that useful in the high fire ranges you are looking at. At the minimum, make sure that the electronic controller has an override timer and has the ability to ramp up the firing automatically. (All the newer ones seem to have both of these, just mentioning it in case....) The downside to the fancier controller (the programmable kind) is that they need replacing more frequently and can be costly. It's pretty hard to make electronics that are immune to the heat radiated from the outer skin of the kiln when the inside is over two thousand degrees!

I have never met anyone yet that said that they regret having a bigger kiln. You can run more stuff, and although you may fire less often, it is more efficient and cost effective per pot. The difference between the two sizes you are talking about is not really that much in terms of electricity used, but can be a big difference when you want to load that cool new forest tray you just made! When you are glost firing, you need some room between pieces, especially if you are using glaze formulations that may interact with each other in the environment of the kiln.

One more point to consider is a vent. If you are firing in your work area, the fumes from the glazes shouldn't be breathed. If you don't have adequate ventilation then you should consider an automatic venting system. (the fumes can even corrode metals near the kiln, like aluminum window frames, so think of what it does to your lungs) It can be factory installed on your kiln. Although the cost is several hundred dollars more, it's much better to do it if you need it. The upside to getting a vent is the clear, clean glaze firings you will achieve. Many glazes perform best when they have an oxygen supply. An updraft venting system pulls oxygen from the bottom of the kiln, through the ware, and vents it out the top and outside. You would need to cut a hole in your kiln area however. It's something to consider. If you DO get a venting system, it must always be used during firing. You don't get to turn it off. If you don't use it, when the firing gets hot enough it can melt or ruin the venting system because the heat gathers in it. I wish I had bought a vent for mine. It also cools the ware efficiently.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes!
Joanie
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Old 3-Mar-2006   #3
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Hi Joanie,

Thanks for the tips. I do intend to get a vent, the Skutt downdraft (all of the current vents seem to generally be downdraft now).

I will also be getting the electronic controller, the Skutt controller lets you set the cone and one of three speeds for the fire, as well as creating your own programs (up to 8 segments, where a segment is something like "heat to 500 degrees, at 100 degrees an hour" or "hold for 45 minutes").

They also recommend running a fan to blow on the kiln, I assume to keep the electronics cool.

I'm really leaning toward wide rather than high (since I can't get both), hopefully I won't suddenly discover that I really need to make a 2 ft high vase!

-Darrell
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Old 3-Mar-2006   #4
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Darrell, glad to hear that you are getting a vent! Yes, I meant downdraft... sorry, it was a very long day yesterday. My brain flipped it upside down. Anyway, the thought was there....

The programmable electronics are extremely useful. Do they offer the option of having the pin pad mounted on the wall rather than on the kiln? This might just save $$ in the long run, keeping the expensive components away from the kiln. It would be worth asking about.

You're a lucky guy to be setting yourself up like this! If I had it to do over again, I would set up the shop from scratch rather than piecemeal over years. I've been firing eleven years and have finally gotten a configuration that works well.

Oh, and if you happen to come across a small, used kiln offered inexpensively, they are terrific for smaller projects, or for those one-more-bisque-firing types of problems, or to test glazes. (Although a true glaze test would require the large kiln because the inside environment is surprisingly different between a little kiln and a big kiln) There's a yahoo list called "potterbarter" that is very useful to keep your eye on, in which only ceramic equipment can be bought, sold, or traded. Go to yahoo groups, and search for "potterbarter".

We always name our kilns. It appeases the spirit within. Mine are "Sumer" and "Ur". Faithful campanions for many years now.

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Old 3-Mar-2006   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joanie
The programmable electronics are extremely useful. Do they offer the option of having the pin pad mounted on the wall rather than on the kiln? This might just save $$ in the long run, keeping the expensive components away from the kiln. It would be worth asking about.


Hmm, I know they do offer the controller that was as a retrofit, I'll look into it. But unless it connects/disconnectes easily, it would defeat keeping the kiln mobile. I'm still trying to figure out a way to set it up in a permanent location, but so far mobile is working out as the best option.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Joanie
There's a yahoo list called "potterbarter" that is very useful to keep your eye on, in which only ceramic equipment can be bought, sold, or traded. Go to yahoo groups, and search for "potterbarter".


Yep, I join that list, but have not seen anything local yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joanie
We always name our kilns. It appeases the spirit within. Mine are "Sumer" and "Ur". Faithful campanions for many years now.


I'll have to get my daughter thinking about the, she is really good at naming things!

-Darrell
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Old 3-Mar-2006   #6
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I don't understand about keeping the kiln mobile? You can't if you have the venting system, it is vented outside the wall.... usually through a big hole cut into the wall. Kilns that size are not really easy to move, and their elements become more brittle as they are fired. Each time you fire, some of the outer molecules sort of leave the elements, so eventually they become brittle, just like the filament in a light bulb. Moving them can then stress the elements. The bricks also become more brittle during repeated firings. You can move them carefully, but not easily.... or repeatedly.

Or maybe I need another cuppa tea. Wouldn't be the first time today I didn't get someone's drift...

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Old 3-Mar-2006   #7
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Hi Joanie,

By "mobile", I mean being able to move it across the garage floor. I was planning on setting it on a mobile base like you might use for shop equipment. The vent motor would remain mounted to the wall, and I would connect/disconnect the vent as needed. Would that level of movement cause problems?

Thanks,
Darrell
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Old 3-Mar-2006   #8
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Ah!! Got it!! If the movement, is smooth, no, it shouldn't cause problems. The controller could also be wall mounted, with enough wire to enable mobility, but maybe that isn't important enough to worry about... it was just a thought. I'm enjoying thinking about all the options you have. Much more fun to "spend" someone else's money.

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Old 3-Mar-2006   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joanie
Ah!! Got it!! If the movement, is smooth, no, it shouldn't cause problems.


It should be pretty smooth, hard rubber casters over a smooth concrete garage floor. It will probably jiggle a little bit, so I'll be sure to move it slowly and carefully.

Thanks again!
Darrell
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