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8-Feb-2006
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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
Join Date: Feb-2006
Country: Poland
Posts: 8
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problems with warps
Hello,
My name is Martin and I live in Poland. I try to make pots for my bonsai... I try many kinds of clays(with shamote too-50  .Every pot is warp during dry or firing... Please help me, I need few advise. How to dry big pots(rectangular especially...on feet or not,...etc.) and how to fire them(proces diagram-I have electrical kiln)? Thank You very, very much (Sorry for English language...) With kind regards - Martin |
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problems with warps |
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8-Feb-2006
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#2 |
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Square Tree - Round Pot!
 
Join Date: May-2004
Location: Walsall U.K.
Country: United Kingdom
USDA Zone: 8
AHS Heat Zone: 1/2
Posts: 2,477
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Hi Martin.
Welcome to bonsaiTalk  Tell us a little more about how you are drying your pots at the moment. How "wet" is your clay once final assembly is complete... do you cover with plastic in between build elements and afterwards? It is not unusual for pots to dry over 5/6 weeks after final assembly and then it should be very. .very slowly. Often, I take mine out of the wrapping on a weekly basis... even giving a light mist and then re-wrap... which prolongs the drying process even more, but gives a much longer dry time and a far more stable pot prior to first firing. There are many other factors to consider... like grog of the clay, ambient temperature and any air movement etc... so tell us more and one of the potters on here is bound to try to help you. I think we need to ascertain your construction and drying methods first... get them right and then look at the firing afterwards. A badly built or dried pot will always cause problems even in a "perfect" firing. (If there is such a thing that is). Pictures would also be nice if you have any Hope to hear from you soon. (No problems with your English by the way) Best Regards, Ian. Last edited by Ian_Homer : 8-Feb-2006 at 06:41 PM. |
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9-Feb-2006
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#3 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
Join Date: Feb-2006
Country: Poland
Posts: 8
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Thank You for answer !
 I usualy make pots with slabs(pic.) and assembly, rather "wet" slabs yet . Sometimes I use moulds and I push slabs into mould... but always I must adjust hole in pot(clay loss)-how "wet,wet..." slabs to use? I have difficulties to move my slabs-so wet and delicate, although 1/2 inch fat. drying methods - pot has covered cotton (sometimes plastic when I have to leave) and press "shelf"(slab). Everyday I turn pot "upside down"(every 2 days-sometimes) ...first warps to see after 1 week about  Thank You for patience for my English |
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9-Feb-2006
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
Join Date: Feb-2006
Country: Poland
Posts: 8
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grog???
is it "grog"(english-shamott)
 This is my problem...I can`t finish pots... Does smaller (in clay) may to increase shrink of clay ? Thank You- Martin |
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10-Feb-2006
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#5 |
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Square Tree - Round Pot!
Join Date: May-2004
Location: Walsall U.K.
Country: United Kingdom
USDA Zone: 8
AHS Heat Zone: 1/2
Posts: 2,477
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Martin,
Sorry not to get back earlier....... been very busy... Looks like a nice pot there and is that a slab roller I see in some of the pics ? Looks like you have a nice style going there. Here is a good link.....http://www.negentropic.com/clay/pro...laymaking.shtml Any pictures of the wall thickness ? - I still think your problems are related to the drying and clay make-up. Cloths tend to absorb moisture too quickly and plastic wraps are always much better for the first few weeks of drying. Have a good look through this section of the forum and you might pick up a lot more hints and tips. Regards, Ian. Last edited by Ian_Homer : 10-Feb-2006 at 12:08 PM. |
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11-Feb-2006
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#6 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
Join Date: Feb-2006
Country: Poland
Posts: 8
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what about grog?
Hi
What type of grog do You use-how many( , "grain"?and... What kind of oxide do You prefer for dye(ing) light clays iron ox. might increase shrink clay? maybe manganese ox... What do YOU think about this?I love Your brown, grey clays Thank You - Martin |
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11-Feb-2006
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#7 |
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Square Tree - Round Pot!
Join Date: May-2004
Location: Walsall U.K.
Country: United Kingdom
USDA Zone: 8
AHS Heat Zone: 1/2
Posts: 2,477
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Martin,
Sorry, I have a busy weekend... but I hope to get back to you soon. Just quickly.... I use prepared clay that David Jones has re-fined over the years to his own special recipe. Unlike some potters... he does not reveal the exact make-up, but it is fair to say, it has a higher particle "grog" proportion than that mentioned in the link above. Where are you sourcing the clay from..... and what else is made from the same source ? Your wall thickness is still not known, and that could also be a problem with the warping. Meantime, another potter might "chip in" with some assistance, till I get back here. Regards, Ian. |
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11-Feb-2006
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#8 |
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Mad Bonsai Potter
Join Date: Jul-2004
Location: The Garden of England, Kent
Country: England
Posts: 478
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Hi Martin
As Ian says the higher the grog content the less shrinkage and warping there is when th pot drys out. A little trick for you, with straight sided pots just bend the wall of the pot outward slightly and as it drys the wall will shrink and remain straight. Also you may want to consider having thicker walls and a rim or lip on the pot also stops some warping. I dont mind a bit of warping as it gives a bit of character to each pot. Good luck and kind regards Ian Hope your well mate Regards Andy
__________________
www.stonemonkeyceramics.co.uk
Fine Handmade Stoneware Bonsai Pots |
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30-Mar-2006
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#9 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
Join Date: Mar-2006
Posts: 12
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Grog
Martin,
I would use as large a size grog as you care to. It will depend on how you like to work with your clay. The more you use the less shrinkage and warping you should have. There are some lo fire sculpture clay bodies that are literally one half very large grog and one half red earthenware clay. From your pictures it seems that you may be using rather wet clay. You should be able to handle your clay without leaving finger impressions. The one close up photo has the surface looking like you have wiped it with a very wet sponge. Is the clay you are using a body, meaning that is made up of several different clay types? The clays used can be mixed to get the qualities that you want to add to the final product. A clay body with a good bit of course fireclay will be forgiving for warping problems. A very plastic clay may be nice to work with but may warp badly. And Slow Drying is important as several folks have said. Barry |
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