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Looking to get into Pottery

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Old 15-Jun-2006   #1
Moleque_san
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Question Looking to get into Pottery

ok Ive taken the bait. Thanks to Boondock and Dale Cochoy I am inspired to start throwing pots with the rest of em. I need some helpful info to get me started. Ive gone through the search and read about every post about homemade and making pots but my current schedule doesnt allow for the commonsense oportunities to happen. By that I mean, Im unable to get away from the house long enough to fire pots or take classes on a regular basis. so with that in mind heres my questions...

Potters wheel: is there a standard Head size needed to sling bonsai pots and if not what size wheel should I get? HP? Centered allowance? Kick or electric? although I can see electric being better in the long run.

Kilns: Im probably gonna get one soon enough so a cone 10 with variable cone settings but what size is needed for those shallow pots that can get around 2 feet in length? any extra info also greatly appreciated...OH! whats the difference between a direct wire and a plug?

Slabwork: is a slab roller necassary or can you use a rolling pin till you can get one? also with Slabwork...how do you piece together the pot? water? slip clay?

Clay: Stoneware C6 to C10 seems to be the most ideal so I can do that no problem. I have made clay models when I was younger and know a bit about pottery/clayart.

Molds: I read a brief description here on how to make a mold but what is Bisque firing? what materials should be used if a mold is made?

I think that about covers my situation. again any help or information you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

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Old 15-Jun-2006   #2
darrellw
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Hi Moleque,

I just got into potter as well, so I'll take a stab at some of your questions:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moleque_san
Potters wheel: is there a standard Head size needed to sling bonsai pots and if not what size wheel should I get? HP? Centered allowance? Kick or electric? although I can see electric being better in the long run.


The wheel head come is a couple of standard sizes, but since you will probably use a bat (disk that fits over the wheel head) it shouldn't matter if you have a 12", 13" or 14" wheel head. I've been throwing for just under 6 months, and I can't center more that about 5 lbs of clay yet, which for me is about a 12" pot before firing. Any of the name brand 1/4 or 1/2 HP wheels should probably be fine, personally I would stay away from some of the small portable wheels unless you really need that. I bought a Shimpo VL Whisper, because I was reall sold on the quiet operation. I've also used Brent and Pacifica wheels, and they are well thought of brands.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moleque_san
Kilns: Im probably gonna get one soon enough so a cone 10 with variable cone settings but what size is needed for those shallow pots that can get around 2 feet in length? any extra info also greatly appreciated...OH! whats the difference between a direct wire and a plug?


Any kiln should give you the inside measurements. Most kilns come in standard size increments, since they all use the same basic sized bricks. My kiln is 28" inside, but only 18" high. Most kilns are higher than wide, not what a bonsai potter really needs! The problem with a bigger kiln is that if you don't make a lot of pots, you have to wait a while before it is worth firing. But I decided to get one that would last me a while, it was hard enough to convince my wife to get it in the first place, so I figured it had better last.

Also note that many kiln rated for cone 10 may not perform well at that level, nor will they last as long firing to cone 10. You almost certainly will want to get 3" (or more) brick, and I opted for upgraded elements and thermocouple. That said, I'm thinking I will mostly work at cone 6.

Direct wire mean that your kiln permanently attached to power (well, you can unscrew the connections). You don't just have a plug you can pull. Over about 48 amps (I think) everything will have to be hardwired.

You might also start checking into your electric service to make sure you have adequate power for the kiln you get.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moleque_san
Slabwork: is a slab roller necassary or can you use a rolling pin till you can get one? also with Slabwork...how do you piece together the pot? water? slip clay?


A rolling pin works just fine for making slabs, and in fact, is superior in some ways (you can roll the clay in different directions rather than just one). A slab roller is just a lot faster (and easier).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moleque_san
Clay: Stoneware C6 to C10 seems to be the most ideal so I can do that no problem. I have made clay models when I was younger and know a bit about pottery/clayart.


You definately want a stoneware clay body. You should also make sure that the absorbency is low (3-5 percent). Not all clays will list that, but if you ask for a "tight" clay body the shop should be able to steer you the right way. You don't want a porous body that will abosorb a lot of water, then break apart when it freezes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moleque_san
Molds: I read a brief description here on how to make a mold but what is Bisque firing? what materials should be used if a mold is made?


I can't help you on molds, but a bisque firing is a first firing that you do before applying glaze. If you are not glazing, you can just fire to the final temp right away. Note that you can also glaze unfired ware as well.

Anyway, I hope that helps. It really is a blast!

-Darrell
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Old 15-Jun-2006   #3
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hi Mole,

I use a rolling pin, well, not actually a rolling pin. I use a 2 foot piece of PVC pipe to roll out my slabs.

Groggy stoneware clay, for cone 6 is the way to go
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Old 19-Jun-2006   #4
Dale Cochoy
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Moleque,
Your post is a shadow of a dozen similar I've seen in the last couple years.
You are talking about buying a kiln and a wheel but obviously have NO experience w/ clay in the slightest. You are headed for many disappointments! Many disappointments with little success is such a waste of time( which you sound like you don't have much of) and money. You need to seriously read and get some instruction before you spend a bunch of money. I keep seeing posts like this which greatly remind me of newbie bonsai dealers questions before they start a "business" after they buy their first bonsai at a mall and decide they like it so they need to be selling them ....and teaching!
Take it slow, and, don't expect experienced folks to be giving you secrets later on that they spent YEARS researching.

Boondock,
Do you have any finished pot pics?
I've not seen any except wet or dry clay pics?
Lets see some completed pot pics.

Regards,
Dale
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Old 19-Jun-2006   #5
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I never expect secrets to be told, its those secrets that make the individual artist. I have alot of time at the house, what I was sayng up top is that I have very little outside time to go and take classes or do whatever. I never expect the quick way through anything artistic. I will admit I rushed a little through my first pot but my 2nd time around Im taking my time.

as for the disappointments comment, "You learn from your mistakes."
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Old 19-Jun-2006   #6
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I'm still working on my finish formula (slip-glaze). I've made about 70 test tiles so far. I've only been interested in making pots for about 6 months. For me, making pots is relatively simple, it is the finish that will take a long time to develop.

I'm building much larger pots now (up to 20 inches), but it is the finish formula I am spending my time on.

Dale, Thank you for all your help and inspiration.
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Old 19-Jun-2006   #7
Dale Cochoy
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Moleque said:
"as for the disappointments comment, "You learn from your mistakes."

Sure you learn from your mistakes! ....or SHOULD....but, making mistakes you don't need to make is different....especially when it costs money and time!!....one not necessarily being more important than the other.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Boondock
I'm still working on my finish formula (slip-glaze). I've made about 70 test tiles so far. I've only been interested in making pots for about 6 months. For me, making pots is relatively simple, it is the finish that will take a long time to develop.

I'm building much larger pots now (up to 20 inches), but it is the finish formula I am spending my time on.

Dale, Thank you for all your help and inspiration.


Boon,
Glad things are moving along.
I've always felt showing pics of a lot of unfinished pots is kinda like showing a bag of seeds as a future forest bonsai planting!
unless, you are being instructional.
Dale
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____________________________________________
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Old 19-Jun-2006   #8
Moleque_san
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I appreciate your words of wisdom Mr. Cochoy. I think as a beginner to Pottery ive made some good strides as far as recognizing what mistakes I have made and am now on the steps of correcting them. Im sticking primarily to small size pots so I can get the feel of the creation process. once I feel comfortable enough with my work I will post pics. Ive only been doing pottery since saturday and have only had the opportunity to create 1 pot and remake it into the start of another.

So far Ive learned: NOT to use wood as a table (the clay sticks too much), When rolling roll both sides of your clay, to make decent slip, how to keep edges straighter, the importance of a ruler and let your slabs dry before building.
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Old 19-Jun-2006   #9
Dale Cochoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moleque_san
Ive only been doing pottery since saturday and have only had the opportunity to create 1 pot and remake it into the start of another.

.


And you're not selling them yet??....
What's the hold-up??

Just kidding Moleque, enjoy yourself.
but, hold off on that kiln and wheel a bit OK?
Dale
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Old 19-Jun-2006   #10
Moleque_san
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well yeah lol. I dont think I can pull $2000+ out of thin air to buy a wheel and Kiln...

although that would be pretty amazing
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