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#1 |
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SPGD Founder/Bonsaiist
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How Can You Tell If A Pot Is Quality?
I'd really like to hear how you can tell if a pot is quality or not. I go to a lot of places and see pots that look nice, but I have no idea if they're really good pots or not. Basically what I've checked for when getting any pots has been:
-Pot's base is level, and can stand on a table without tipping back and forth. -Pot's rim is level, if it is meant to be so -The shape is perfectly symmetrical, if it meant to be so -The pot is only glazed on the outside -There are no places on the inside of the pot for water to collect and cause root rot -The pot has an appropriately sized drainage hole (or multiple drainage holes for bigger containers -The pot has no cracks or chips -The feet are all intact Those are all that I can think of now that I seem to be checking for when I've looked for and bought bonsai pots. Also, I'd like to know if there should be a specific color or shade to the inside of the bonsai pot (the uncolored part). BTW, if anyone has links to previous discussions of this, I would appreciate them. I couldn't find any though...
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#2 |
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Tips:5˘ Advice:Free
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Those are some good pointers.
Check for cracks - Turn the pot upside down and support it with a finger or two through the drainage holes and rap it with your knuckles. If it rings a bit, it is certainly sound. If it does not ring, or has a weird tone and drumming vibration, it may be cracked. If it falls apart, it probably was cracked. Check the chop - Turn the pot upside down and inspect the pot for a depressed rectangular stamp (chop) and/or signature. Most collectable pots are the work of an artist studio and are signed. Some mass-produced molded pots are not. Stickers don't count. Density - denser pots are more durable, fired at a higher temperature and higher quality. You have to get a feel for this, but you should be able to tell terra cotta*** from stronger pots. Another key is how readily the surface drinks up water. Suitability - larger pots of quality frequently include smaller holes for tie down wires. This is not true of many extremely prized containers which pre-date the use of wire. Pots should have adequate drainage. Medium-size pots up to 8" should have at least two drainage holes. Larger pots should have at least five holes, and frequently a generous rectangular hole in the center. ***BTW - terra cotta isn't great for show quality containers, but it makes a great training container due to its porosity. Regards, Matt
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#3 |
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SPGD Founder/Bonsaiist
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Thanks for the information, Matt. I think that the majority of my pots are the mass-produced, molded kind, but all except for one seem to be of pretty good density.
I have a question though for anyone here, I have a free form shaped pot that does not have a stamp but a very (very) faded sticker. If anyone can tell me the maker of a pot with a sticker like this on the bottom (this is not a picture of the actual sticker, this is my drawing of the sticker design), I would be very grateful.
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
Join Date: Oct-2002
Location: MELB
Country: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,183
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KYOHDOH JAPAN
you have a japanese pot ,good quality regards ROBOKU |
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#5 |
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SPGD Founder/Bonsaiist
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Awesome! It felt fairly dense to me but I thought that just might have been me.
I'll try and get a picture of it up in the pots gallery.
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#8 |
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YOU CAN NOT RUSH TIME
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Some thoughts on pots, from someone who (is starting to) make them.
Quality is a nebulous term to a degree. Now do not get me wrong, the obvious top quality pots are just that! Pots from Tokoname and those of US Potters (Sara Rayner, Dale Cochoy, Michael Hagerdon to name a few) are top quality. But it is possible to get ‘top quality’ pots from other sources. Some of the new Chinese pots coming into the country appear to be excellent. These pots are not only good but they are inexpensive as well. Knowing this, why am I throwing and building my own pots? Well, the answer is individuality. Pots from well know, mass production, order from a catalog type sources are all over. Even though the pot is there first to hold the tree and second to balance the visual, it is also to a lesser degree a statement. The three potters I named above (and the several excellent ones I did not) make excellent pots that are beautiful and although not cheap, are about what it costs me to do it myself. The thing is, they make several pots that are exactly the same or nearly so. They are trying to make a living from their work. My pots are a personal statement, for now they are each individual pieces with no two the same. By doing this, I will keep the pot as a one of a kind. I try not to make the pot the show. It is still only the second part of the puzzle, but I do want it to be right. Soooo, in my own way, I think I am making Quality Pots, as I am sure other individual potters are also.
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A Bonsai student living with his trees at N 44.37 W 77.49... Think before you act... then think again... no good comes from rushing |
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#9 |
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Paul Berish
Join Date: Jun-2002
Location: north shore of Lake Superior
Country: Minnesota
USDA Zone: 3/4
Posts: 1,197
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Oh do I agree that Jay....
All pots are hand thrown and altered on a potters wheel, and are made of high quality stoneware and porcelain clays. They are high fired at 2400 degrees F., and are completely vitreous(non porous), frost proof, and extremely durable. The stoneware clay has a lot of tooth, and a warm hand rubbed appearence. The porcelain is a fine grained,
pure white clay that lends itself to smoother, brighter, more colorful glazes. -- Sara Rayner -- Add that to what Jay says...... thats what I look for in quality pots...be it Japanese, Chinese or Artesian. (funny looks warranted) Paul
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