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26-Jun-2006
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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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What a Difference 6 Months Can Make!
I got this tree in February, and man what a difference 6 months can make! In 2 years, at the rate that it's going, I could show it in my club's novice show! It's nice seeing my hard work paying off and being able to say that it was all me with the styling of this tree. The before pic is in late February, and the after pic is just today (the front was moved about 30 degrees from the before).
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26-Jun-2006
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#2 |
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Hec DeBrabant
 
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Nice direction with this tree. What specie is it?
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http://www.tellys.com http://www.Fourseasonsbonsai.com The original Four Seasons Bonsai Club of Michigan. Guest master Pedro Morales visit was a huge success. Tellys Greenhouse, 3301 John R road, Troy Mi. 48083 Four Seasons Bonsai Club meetings monthly. Troy, Michigan "Anything is possible when you don't know what you are doing"................someone famous I think. |
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27-Jun-2006
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#3 | |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Quote:
How big is it? Ken |
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27-Jun-2006
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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It's a cork bark ch. elm and it's 13 inches (33 cm) from soil line to apex.
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History stopped being interesting when people stopped killing each other with swords. -Me during US History class |
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10-Jul-2006
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#5 |
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Learning patience
 
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I like the initial front better - the trunk has movement and really looks ancient. In the second picture the trunk is almost straight (although it probably isn't if you would look from aside), doesn't look so appealing to me.
Just my 2 cents. Good luck Kestutis |
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10-Jul-2006
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#6 |
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Tips:5¢ Advice:Free
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It might have been interesting to have used the first branch as the tree in order to ge the benefit of its taper and movement. I agree it is too straight now and a bit uninspired. Listen to the tree and put away the pictures of bonsai pines!
Regards, Matt
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12-Jul-2006
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#7 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
 
Join Date: Jan-2004
Location: South Texas
Country: U.S.A.
USDA Zone: 9-10
AHS Heat Zone: 11
Posts: 1,196
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jo,
I agree with Matt on this one.I've always had a problem with throwing away "good wood".  ..but I think you should cut the top out of this one and use the movement of the first branch to make this tree special.I used to airlayer any thick branch or trunk that I decided wasn't needed on a tree...but that slows down the training process while you wait for the airlayer to take.(well,not always but usually  )Remember,it's not the size of the tree that matters....it's how you ....never mind .andy
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12-Jul-2006
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#8 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
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I agree also with Master Matt and Master Andy. I did this pine branching with one of my Chinese elms and somehow it didn't look quite right. I think it's a common thing too, as us beginners pick up bonsai books and follow the styling guidelines far too rigidly initially, rather than letting the natural style of the tree come to be.
As John Naka said... "Don’t try to make your trees look like bonsai, make your bonsai look like trees". For the novice without tuition, I think by far the best way to do this is to study pictures of trees in the wild, their form and structuring. Draw them, or like I do, take raw material and do virtuals in photoshop. Stylize the image. Experiment with exaggerating or over-emphasizing the branch and trunk movements, even in a tree that you are trying to convey calm and serenity in. See how these change the story the tree is telling you. Its when your tree actually looks like a tree and feels like a tree... then you have a bonsai .All the best, Aaron
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Do not follow where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail. - Muriel Strode Vulpes pilum mutat, non mores! "A fox may change its skin but never its character" Last edited by Aaron_K : 12-Jul-2006 at 02:57 PM. |
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12-Jul-2006
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#9 |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
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"I think it's a common thing too, as us beginners pick up bonsai books and follow the styling guidelines far too rigidly initially, rather than letting the natural style of the tree come to be."
I don't think that's the case. I think it is more misapplication of the rules to inappropriate material. Applying a formal upright model to deciduous species' trunk that cries out for informal upright makes a mess  The problem is recognizing which trunk is which. That takes a bit of time to realize."I think by far the best way to do this is to study pictures of trees in the wild, their form and structuring. " I think this is probably counterproductive. Look at pictures of good bonsai, better yet, go see good bonsai in person. There are vast differences in what "looks good" for a tree in the wild and one that looks good in a pot in your hands. Natural trees aren't made for anyone to look at. Bonsai is made specifically for that. What's "natural" on a tree in a forest can look aboninable on a tree in a pot. Bonsai that appear "natural" are among the hardest to produce, as they are constructed using techniques and visual tricks that are far from natural. |
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