Upright Juniper

Bonsai Barry

I purchased this juniper (pro cumbens?) last Saturday at the Santa Barbara Bonsai show. It has some design issues, but it reminds me of some trees in an area of the high Sierra in which I work during the summer.

I would like to rework the apex in particular. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

The photos show: front, back and side

Attached Images

	SB_Juniper 001_mod.jpg (32.9 KB, 65 views)
	SB_Juniper_side.jpg (31.0 KB, 40 views)
	SB_Juniper_back.jpg (29.8 KB, 56 views)

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Bonsai Barry

"Our talent lies in our choices."

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John Dixon

Barry,

Here is a quick virt of pic 22682. I like it for the front. I think the shari should continue down the trunk a little, but the dead apex should be lowered considerably. I find shorter, more dense limbs to be appropriate on these styles of bonsai.

Good luck with it. Nice material.

John

Attached Images

1116943423_image.jpg (25.9 KB, 19 views)

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John Dixon

Si vis pacem parabellum

Stay off the trails of others, that's where the booby-traps are.

waltr

Barry,
Yes, it does remind me of the trees in the Sierra mountains. The lowest two branch/foliage looks great. The upper branch and pads need some development, maybe thinned and flattened. Just keep in mind the mountain trees when you do any work. Do you have any photos of those trees?
keep us posted
walt

Bonsai Barry

Sorry, I don't. But I am inspired to start collecting photos of interesting trees in nature. I have half a dozen in mind when I get up there again. Sadly, the camps I work at will be closed this season due to too much snowfall.

Thanks, John. I agree with the shorter and denser limbs assessment. Do you think I'll be able to get the branches of this older tree to bud back?

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Bonsai Barry

"Our talent lies in our choices."

John Dixon

Barry,

Yes I do think it will bud back. From the photos, this looks like a needle juniper (foemina?) rather than a procumbens cultivar. Both are similar, but the foemina has a more rigid and coarse foliage. Maybe I'm wrong with my assessment, but that's what the photo looks like.

As far as bud-back goes, last spring (2004) I did a workshop with Bill Valavanis at the Growing Grounds (Marc Torppa) with a needle juniper. The tree was initially about six feet tall, and was reduced to a little over two feet tall in a chokkan style. It was also immediately potted into a bonsai container. I have a photo of that bonsai in my gallery showing the tree about a week after the workshop. I will try to take a picture of it in the next day or so to show you the growth as of now. I feel that comparing those two pictures will give you a great idea of the bud-back potential. Just please understand I didn't take (and will not be taking) pictures of "show" quality. The bonsai is in the beginning stages and the photos are just to show progress.

I'll try to post it soon.

Warmest regards,

John

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John Dixon

Si vis pacem parabellum

Stay off the trails of others, that's where the booby-traps are.

Bonsai Barry

Thanks, John. You are probably right about the type of juniper. I'm only seen a needle juniper in photos, not in real life, so I'm excited about the possibility of owning one. You did a great job ID'ing it from a photo. The foliage is, as you observed, course and rigid.

I'd love to see the two photos. Please don't worry about a disclaimer regarding the photography quality. The time and wisdom you are willing to share are much more important than the photo quality.

Many thanks!

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Bonsai Barry

"Our talent lies in our choices."

bonsaial1

That "is" a foemina juniper and they do back bud.

Just not where you want them to. They tend to bud from the under side of the branch terminals at the trunk intersection. Keeping them rubbed away from those areas may induce budding in old wood, hopefully where you may need a branch.

Pinching will be weekly, and these type of juniper can lose their shape in three months if you don't keep up on it. After styling, pinch out the new pointed tuft as soon as you can grasp it with your fingers. If it opens, pruning must be done with scissors, very sharp and in between the needles or browning of the tips will occur.

Wireing will need to stay on for at least two years. If you intend to do more horizontal branches, they may have to be nicked at the bottom or top to be brought down. This type of juniper has wood akin to a yew and is very resiliant to bending. Do not be surprised if after two years with wire, the branch reverts back to its previous position! And in as little as a week!

Wounds do not heal, and all prunings will show for many years and should be treated as jins by leaving small stubs and peeling. Small branches will not be obvious, but branches larger than a pencil should be treated this way.

Fall is the time to prune back hard for shape. Take foliage back to four or five needle tufts on tertiary twigs. Clean all intersections of twigs at each place it "Y's". Clean all up and down growing twigs from the branches. These junipers like to grow twigs up and the clouds get out of shape fast. The tufts can get quite long and will hang down due to its weight. Keep the foliage tight and compact. If hard pruning is done in fall, and you have fertilized well that year, you will be rewarded in spring with beautiful green growth.

Hope that helps, Al

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Bonsai Barry

Does it help? Of course. I'm printing this thread up and keeping it close. Thanks for your time, effort and expertise.

__________________
Bonsai Barry

"Our talent lies in our choices."