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Trident Maple need advice please

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Old 25-May-2005   #21
Attila
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I am sure that the tree will do fine at this point. The best news is that the roots are healthy, that is the key to the tree's health.

Regarding defoliation and repotting in the same time, I have to admit that's new to me. Reducing foliage proportionately with root reduction is one thing, but complete defoliation is another.

The vast literature of bonsai says that defoliation should be done on strong and healthy trees only (occasionally this literature may be outdated, but for the most part it is still regarded as true). This makes sense, since defoliation causes stress to the tree, therefore the tree should be strong to cope with the stress.

If we defoliate while repotting, this will add to the stress of repotting. And if we assume that the tree was not in top health in the first place, now we have a weak tree with double stress. I just can't see the benefit in this.

All this of course may not be enough to kill a trident, which is one of the most resilient trees that ever lived on this planet. I have worked with hundreds of them, and I don't remember killing even one of them. It's impossible to kill them.
But the more stress we cause, the more we will slow down it's recovery to perfect health.

Just my opinion.
Attila
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Old 25-May-2005   #22
John Dixon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Attila
I am sure that the tree will do fine at this point. The best news is that the roots are healthy, that is the key to the tree's health.

Regarding defoliation and repotting in the same time, I have to admit that's new to me. Reducing foliage proportionately with root reduction is one thing, but complete defoliation is another.

The vast literature of bonsai says that defoliation should be done on strong and healthy trees only (occasionally this literature may be outdated, but for the most part it is still regarded as true). This makes sense, since defoliation causes stress to the tree, therefore the tree should be strong to cope with the stress.

If we defoliate while repotting, this will add to the stress of repotting. And if we assume that the tree was not in top health in the first place, now we have a weak tree with double stress. I just can't see the benefit in this.

All this of course may not be enough to kill a trident, which is one of the most resilient trees that ever lived on this planet. I have worked with hundreds of them, and I don't remember killing even one of them. It's impossible to kill them.
But the more stress we cause, the more we will slow down it's recovery to perfect health.

Just my opinion.
Attila



Attila,

I agree that most literature instructs complete defoliation on healthy trees only, but that is prefaced for reasons of foliage size reduction and/or improved fall color. I can't ever recall seeing it for re-potting guidelines, but it may well be there.

In general terms ANY change causes stress to varying degrees. I don't view defoliation as one of the more stressful techniques. It is a STIMULANT, no doubt, but I don't feel it is especially stressful as long as dormant buds are present. I still feel the minimization of moisture loss through transpiration outweighs any stress it may have on tridents. Now when it comes to other species, I am not as cavalier in my opinion (Quercus robur for example).

Any doubt I had about defoliation at re-potting was removed when i saw Colin Lewis make a trident forest a few years ago. He was borderline "brutal" to the trees. He defoliated by basically ripping his hand through the leaves around the branches. Now granted, the trees were younger and healthy, but the emphasis was that the tridents could handle it easily (and they did). It made a believer out of me.

I can't recall the defoliation trick being well-written for repotting less-vigorous bonsai, but I have read about it before several times. Does anyone else have a reference for it?

Anyway, I accept your difference as an appropriate level of caution, and can understand the concern.

John
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Old 25-May-2005   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Dixon
Most importantly, the leaves require moisture. The transpiration of water through the leaves has to be replenished via the roots. Less leaves, less work for the roots.

I understand what you are saying here but the same situation works for leaving the foliage alone also. The roots will need to grow quickly in order to keep up with the transpiration of the leaves. In my experience the tree would rather throw growth into roots than drop foliage, I think this has to do with the programmed need to survive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Dixon
Next defoliation can (and usually does) produce a smaller leaf and better fall color. One overlooked advantage is that on some species one removed leaf activates TWO dormant buds, hence denser foliage and more ramification potential. Obviously severe cut-back of branches (eventually) is necessary to obtain good branch ramification, but I guess that's off-subject.


True again but defoliation doesn't really produce smaller leafs, just younger ones that have not yet reached full size. (I think)

While it is true that defoliation, bud production, severe cutback are all needed on a bonsai and all have their place, I personally do not believe preforming these techniques on a newly root pruned plant is the healthiest thing to do.

That being said, there is great success in both schools so the chances are that it really doesn't matter either way.

Thanks for the thoughts John,


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Old 25-May-2005   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Attila
All this of course may not be enough to kill a trident, which is one of the most resilient trees that ever lived on this planet. I have worked with hundreds of them, and I don't remember killing even one of them. It's impossible to kill them.


Yes, the only known way to kill a trident is to give it to me. Michigan winters and tridents and me do not get along, lol.


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Old 25-May-2005   #25
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John,

Thanks for the detailed explanation. I know that there is always something new to learn, even after may years of practice.

It is good to keep in mind though, that some species take defoliation as a great insult. The Fagus family (oaks and beeches) is one of them, back in Vancouver I killed a few beeches myself that way. - but of course here we are talking about the trident, so the above is irrelevant.

Thanks again,
Attila
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Old 25-May-2005   #26
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Will and Attila,

I guess I should have said that I've never been accused of being very conservative when it comes to bonsai techniques. Matter of fact, I think idiot, moron, etc., has been used with reckless abandon. Sort of how I do things.

All kidding aside, there are different schools of thought here. I can see the rationale of your viewpoints as well.

Best regards,

John
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Old 25-May-2005   #27
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This is an interesting situation, and I can see common logic on both sides.

A good method for dealing with overly drought-stressed trees that have very wilted leaves is to defoliate; as the roots have become as damaged as the foliage (possibly more so given the temperature extremes in bonsai pots). This defoliation reduces additional transpirational stresses that the tree cannot compensate for, due to the dessicated roots. I can see why this method could work in this situation.

Still, as others have commented - it's a trident, so can probably cope with being doused in petrol, left in the Gobi desert, defoliated, root-pruned and then attacked by Mr Lewis.

Fish.
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Old 25-May-2005   #28
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Hi Degs,

On a completely different note, can I ask where you bought your pumice from and how much it was? I've been looking all over for that stuff and can't seem to find it anywhere!

Many thanks,

Aaron
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Old 25-May-2005   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Dixon
Matter of fact, I think idiot, moron, etc., has been used with reckless abandon. Sort of how I do things.


Hey, there's only room for one moron here, get your own nickname.




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Old 25-May-2005   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emperor Fish
This is an interesting situation, and I can see common logic on both sides.

A good method for dealing with overly drought-stressed trees that have very wilted leaves is to defoliate; as the roots have become as damaged as the foliage (possibly more so given the temperature extremes in bonsai pots).
I've just realized that a similar situation happened to me the past weekend. The temperature was close to 100 F and one of my ashes dried out before I realized it.
It was noon, and I noticed that all the leaves were limp and shriveled, almost lifeless.
Quickly I watered the plant and placed under the bench in shade.

Next day, the leaves came back to life, they were completely healthy, BUT about one third of the leaves dried up and fell off. So, the tree lost one third of the foliage and retained the rest.

It seems like the tree knows how many leaves the roots can support and I don't need to make that decision. The balance is so delicate that I would have no idea how much to keep and how much to remove, the tree knows that much better.

Today the tree is thriving and happy. If I removed all the leaves, it would be under stress in its struggle for survival since there would be no foliage at all. Last year I lost 2 precious California walnuts this time of the year by cutting off too much of it's foliage.
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