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#21 | |
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bonsaiTALK Master
Join Date: Sep-2006
Location: Sydney
Country: Australia
Posts: 366
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Quote:
Have you read "bonsai Master Class" by Craig Cousins? It mentions that Ray Nesci has developed a new sport or cultivar of seiju elm that is called "strong" because it is even tougher than the regular. JayC |
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#22 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
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Hey Gav
This tree is looking good. tinto |
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#23 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
Join Date: Jan-2008
Location: Sydney
Country: AUstralia
Posts: 1,650
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yeah looks good
but if you are going to chop it down why not air-layer it half way and get two trees? but definately the one at the bottom will be the better one of the 2. |
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#24 |
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Wabi and Sabi student
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Hey JC just a slight correction Rays new elm strain is a Hokkaido "strong" variety very similar looking.
I would like to get one. Here is my Seiju Plenty of roots to choose from I heard a discussion about about wonder why people were having trouble keeping Seiju and Hokkaido alive it was suggested they had been over waterd and not enough sun. It seems they love full sun and dryer soil I treat mine like a juniper.
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GROW DAMIT! BRETT AUSTRALIA ZONE 8-9? Last edited by soltan : 25-Apr-2008 at 05:08 AM. |
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#25 |
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bend me twist me
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nice work gav it has a nice trunk line; if i may say so the branch structures pointing down at the trunk junctions is a bit to pine style. small leaved decidous trees i believe the branch should come out at approx. 70 degree angle, then softly curve down and just kick back up at the ends. the result is a softer, rounder, more natural look. just my 2 bob but at the end of it we all see it through different eyes.
good job the rest of you too.
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Antonio . . . ------------------------------------ |
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#26 |
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Registered FedEx Sender
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I'm just wondering why you are hiding the widest part of the trunk in order to try to get some smooth taper? I'd air layer that large gun-barrel part, which will give it some taper, and then make a far less ordinary tree from the huge base you have here.
When looking at a tree to find its best presentation, or "front," it's important to take into consideration some very simple concepts. First, we want to try to find the best front for the first six inches of the base. This will usually, though not always, mean the widest trunk base possible, unless there are serious flaws there. Second, we look for movement and/or taper in that trunk base. This one shows some real interest in its base if we can look beyond the ordinary. Look how rugged it is, and is that the beginning of an uro high on the trunk? I'd love to see more photos. When I do this I try to take at least eight photos from the same tripod setup. It helps if the tree is on a turntable. Then I can flip through them as if the tree were turning in front of me. Do this in front of a large backdrop, solid dark color, or lighter for this tree. Many times we see things in photos we can't in person, and vice versa. Third, we look for the best nebari possible while taking into consideration the first two points. However, nebari is easy to improve over time, but movement, taper, and girth are not. Fourth, we want the life line, in junipers with shari, to be visible where it emerges from the soil, which give the tree more dynamism and life, and shows it is not tanuki. (This moves up in priority when looking at collected trees.) I think you made a great purchase, perhaps better than you know. I'd think long and hard about what you want to make this tree into. It could be a good tree. Or it could become a great, famous tree.
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Chris Johnston "She was a critic, and lots fo critics who aren't called to do what they write about grow jealous and mean and small in their disappointment." - Stephen King, Duma Key Sashi-no-eda.blogspot.com Last edited by bonsaikc : 25-Apr-2008 at 11:49 AM. |
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