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24-Nov-2005
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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
Join Date: Apr-2005
Location: Brighton, Melbourne
Country: Australia
Posts: 95
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Satsuki Neglect Needs a Future
Hey- Yep me again, another tree thats been neglected somewhat. Gimmie your thoughts on what u think i should look at doing, i have thought of a few ideas but i would like to put this out there 4 general discussion. Yes Yes to all those people that wanna say, "stick it in the ground and come back in 3 years" but i wanna give it some intention before that. Get rid of some long branches and give the tree some energy!!
Last edited by BrendanMc : 24-Nov-2005 at 12:38 AM. |
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Satsuki Neglect Needs a Future |
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24-Nov-2005
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#2 |
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Enthusiast
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I'd take to it with a set of branch cutters.
Looking at image #30234 From left to right: Delete branch 1 Delete branch 2 Delete branch 3 (These three make up the heavy branch on the left) Shorten branch 4, to about 10cm Heavy wire, to sweep it down (Don't water the tree for 3 days or so, before you bend an azalea, they become brittle after they've had a drink. Branch 5 becomes the new trunk line Branches 6,7&8 are now superfluous. Tilt the whole tree about 30deg left, replant and feed it like hell for another year. Reassess. Azaleas grow quickly, and are difficult to get to taper quickly. I'd be looking at that as the most obvious method of promoting a strong, tapering tree. It will also get some movement into the shape of the tree. Alternately, keep branches 4,5 & 8, making 4 the main trunk, and 8 the first branch. That will mean it needs to be tilted about 10-12 deg right and rotated about 30-40 deg clockwise, to present a new front. Last edited by shibu : 24-Nov-2005 at 02:10 AM. |
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24-Nov-2005
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#3 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
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when you cut those branches remember that azalea bark is very thin and wounds easily so when cutting branches don't use a concave cutter, but cut it flush and then use cut paste, otherwise a very ugly dead spot or scar will result. I know this isn't a common tool, but a convex cutter would be the best
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24-Nov-2005
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
 
Join Date: Aug-2004
Location: Aberystwyth Uni
Country: Wales
USDA Zone: 8
AHS Heat Zone: 0-1
Posts: 1,101
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Before i make my suggestions, would you be able to tell us how tall this azalea is?
Al
__________________
I can feel another "I wish that was my tree" moment coming on... Currently studying BSc Plant Biology at the Universty of Wales, Aberystwyth |
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24-Nov-2005
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#5 |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
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You should list what you know about the tree as a given:
1.)It is almost impossible to bend mature wood on an Azalea. 2.)Azaleas back bud extremely well due to the thin bark. 3.)The tree as it is now gives little inspiration as to what might look good as a bonsai, and in my opinion will never make a good bonsai due to the problems with trying to bend the annoyingly straight branches whether you withhold water or not. With those thing in mind you have to decide whether it is a worth while effort to try to develop a good bonsai from the branch structure it now has. If yes go with the previous post on the styling issue. If no, proceed to the next step. Cut the tree back drastically to just stubs and regrow the entire tree controlling the developing branches while they are controllable. Sometimes it is necessary to treat a tree as starter stock even if you have had it for many years understanding that other options will yield less than satisfactory results in more time than it would take if you start over. With Azaleas this approach is possible, with Pines it is not.
__________________
The only finished bonsai is a dead one; me 1992 MABA Des Moines Iowa |
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24-Nov-2005
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#6 |
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Enthusiast
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I've got an azalea, about 3 ft tall and 4 ft across, that I collected about ten years ago. I work with the wood, rather than try to bend it. The most bending I do is by using guy wires over the branches, using little slings of plastic potting mesh, down to the pot feet, in 1.5mm aluminium wire. I then run a 4.5mm wire in short wraps along the branch from where it thins to about 10mm diam. to try to get some movement into the branches.
I have managed to get some shape into a garden-grown tree that was very upright in habit, before I started work on it. It's been a long process. It had 11 main trunks when it came out of the ground in 1995. The remaining two trunks are both more than in inch in diameter, and nothing I'm prepared to use will bend them. Back on topic: Judging by the leaf size, I'd say the tree was around 40cm (16in) tall? Vance Wood is right... I was trying to work out something from the mess there, but if the wood is too thick then chop it back to a trunk and go again. This is the time of year to do it, Brendan. Last edited by shibu : 24-Nov-2005 at 10:27 AM. |
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24-Nov-2005
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#7 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
Join Date: Aug-2004
Location: Aberystwyth Uni
Country: Wales
USDA Zone: 8
AHS Heat Zone: 0-1
Posts: 1,101
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I was going to offer the same advice as vance. I would suggest cutting right back to where the branching begins and see what pops up. I wanted to know size so that i could try and imagine the future, wether you could let any new growth run wild to produce a large bonsai or to keep it small and aim for shohin.
Al
__________________
I can feel another "I wish that was my tree" moment coming on... Currently studying BSc Plant Biology at the Universty of Wales, Aberystwyth |
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24-Nov-2005
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#8 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
Join Date: Apr-2005
Location: Brighton, Melbourne
Country: Australia
Posts: 95
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You r spot on Shibu - its about 40cm x 40cm and all the leaders are flexible and can be awired with movement pretty easily so by your suggestions are you saying i should do whats below on my virtual - i have 4 others in about this state, perhaps i should do the same and cut them all right back to 1 or 2 leaders - which is of course the right thing to do - this i know but it sorta breaks the heart a little - Gotta be tough in this game
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24-Nov-2005
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#9 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
Join Date: Apr-2005
Location: Brighton, Melbourne
Country: Australia
Posts: 95
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Heres another 3 i have in bascially the same condition. Big cuts have to be made all all, Ive wated 2 long many years doing nuthin on these - its a shame
They are all about the same 40cmx40cm |
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24-Nov-2005
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#10 |
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Enthusiast
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Perhaps it would be clearer if you were to take the foliage off them, just at the ends of the branches. Then you can establish what you can wire into shape, based on how flexible the branches are. Once the branches are identified and positions determined you can then decide on a front for the tree. After that it's a matter of patience, in growing it on.
There was an excellent article on starting azaleas in Bonsai Today... somewhere around issue 45, as I recall. <net rummage> Issue 42. Stone Lantern will sell you a back issue. USD8 + USD5 for shipping. http://www.stonelantern.com/bonsaitodaybackissues.html I think we've all fallen into the trap of wanting to preserve the foliage on a branch, because it gives us an instant "look" that we want to achieve. The trouble is that the branch is often inappropriately long to sustain future growth so you end up with a leggy looking tree with long skinny branches, destroying the impression of age. I've been more ruthless this spring than at any time in the past and my trees are much better for it. As soon as the foliage has been bashed into shape I might take some photos and post a gallery |
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