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#1 |
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bonsai enthusiast
Join Date: Apr-2003
Location: Lisbon
Country: Portugal - Forest Fire World Champion
USDA Zone: 10
Posts: 289
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Removing Grafting Signs
Hi, say hello to this Atlas Cedar (Cedrus atlantica pendula).
I have bought it about 6 weeks ago, transpotted it (no root pruning, just a faster soil mix for training) and pruned around 1/3 of the foliage. The tree is quite healthy and is putting quite a lot of new growth for a connifer. |
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#2 |
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bonsai enthusiast
Join Date: Apr-2003
Location: Lisbon
Country: Portugal - Forest Fire World Champion
USDA Zone: 10
Posts: 289
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As you can see from this next picture, the grafting is far too obvious.
Air layering is a must. It will also help developing good nebari. My experience with connifers is very limited so I have a few questions: How easy/fast do these trees layer? Any other tricks besides taking out the bark and flooding it with rooting hormones? Since the layer will only be about 5cm (2 inches) from the soil, still must I wrap it in sphagnum moss and use a plastic box around it? Is it OK to air layer now in Spring? Can I wire it at the same time or am I abusing? Thanks. |
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#3 |
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BonsaiTalk Master B.S.er
Join Date: Jun-2002
Location: Richardson, Texas
Country: God Bless America
USDA Zone: 8
Posts: 1,284
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You know one idea that will make it slightly easier for you, is that you don't necessarrily have to bag it up in the area where you will layer it. Rather you can take a seedling pot and remove the bottom from it. Place it right on top of the soil and fill your spagnum mix up in this pot after you have rung, and applied rooting hormone to your tree. Does this make sense. I wish I had a picture to show but I do not. You might inquire with Ripsgreentree or Al about this further. Both have done a number of layers since I have been on this site.
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Emerging from winter slumber Bonsai trees burst buds anew Spring is upon us! -Paul S. Last edited by Ralph : 14-Apr-2004 at 03:55 PM. |
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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Layering depends on species. I can' t tell you how fast it will but the easiest way is to use a transparent pot/plastic bag and you will see when the roots form
No there are no other tricks as far as i am aware of. Just cut a ring into the bark to the cambium and use rooting hormone Spaghnum moss does a great job in keeping humidity and humidity is the key to succes here besides rooting hormone Yes it's ok, but make sure it's kept in a sunny and warm place You'd better take youre time and not wire it now
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Bonsai Club Romania |
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#5 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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To air layer an Atlas Cedar I was told to:
Instead of cutting a ring of bark, cut windows. Sphagnum moss or suspend a can and fill with soil. Takes 2 years. Mine died before the layering was completed. Good luck.
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Paul "Life will be sweet like a rhapsody When I paint my materpiece" |
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#6 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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on yeah i forgot, i;'ve read that on conifers you must actually use a ring made out of wire and tie it until it bites the bark
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Bonsai Club Romania |
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#7 |
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bonsai enthusiast
Join Date: Apr-2003
Location: Lisbon
Country: Portugal - Forest Fire World Champion
USDA Zone: 10
Posts: 289
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Thanks for your opinions but now I'm getting more confused. Wire ring, bark ring or windows?
@Geodude: Did yours died from the air layering or was it something else? |
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#8 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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here, take a read at it
http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/airlayer.htm http://www.bonsaiprimer.com/creatin...g/layering.html http://www.bonsai4me.com/AdvTech/ATLayering.html
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Bonsai Club Romania |
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#9 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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but why are you so eager to do it? I mean, you can cover the graft by using the hammer method. Use a small hammer and hit the bark. This will destroy it and will force cambium formation which will thicken that area, but you must never hit more than 1/4 of the bark at a time. Did you understand ?
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Bonsai Club Romania |
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#10 |
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bonsai enthusiast
Join Date: Apr-2003
Location: Lisbon
Country: Portugal - Forest Fire World Champion
USDA Zone: 10
Posts: 289
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Thanks D3rutat,
The bonsai primer link has convinced me, even though I'll probably have to get a wire with the apropriate thickness unless I want to see the tree bridging the wire... I'm eager to do it because I believe this kind of procedures takes much longer with connifers, and the other (hidden) reason is that the tree has some inverse taper below the graft site, so this hammer technique (quite unorthodox wouldn't you say?) is not an option... By the way, what guaranty do I have that the new bark won't look like the old one before the hammering? Last edited by duartix : 15-Apr-2004 at 11:33 AM. |
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