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#1 |
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student of bonsai
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Quercus robur in training: suggestions?
This oak is more than 30 years old and in training since 2003. I dug it from the wild. Any ideas/suggestions/constructive criticism?
(sorry for the bad quality of the photo)
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Everything of value is defenseless Last edited by wouterotten : 12-Jan-2005 at 10:56 AM. |
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#3 |
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Nice start.
Since you already have decent trunk thickness and you have it in a grow box I would not "plant this out in the garden." Instead, I would let that main leader grow unchecked until it reaches a thickness that matches the main trunk better. At that time i would chop back the height again. Your pretty close as it is and the foliage most likely covers that area anyhow.This being said without knowing how your nebari looks. 11 years in training? Save me the truffles ![]() Will Last edited by Will_Heath : 12-Jan-2005 at 08:41 AM. |
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#4 | |
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Air Assault All The Way.
Join Date: Mar-2004
Location: Huntersville, NC (near Charlotte)
Country: USA
USDA Zone: 7-8
Posts: 1,690
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Quote:
I think it is coming along nicely, as is. Your trunk chop was well placed and it has a good number of branches. The apex looks a little long and/or sparse, but that will change. It needs to be more rounded, rather than pointy (maybe you plan for this later). I only have two English oaks that I started from acorns from Sherwood Forest. Both are about eight years old. I'm amazed at how quickly they thicken up, even containerized. Watch wire carefully, it will bite in before you know it. Here in the Southern US, mine love full sun until the hot summer starts then they MUST be moved into more shade (the leaves will scorch). I have found they prefer deeper pots with good moisture retaining soil. Leaf size reduction is iffy, at best. They seem to grow in bunches/tufts at the terminal end of branches, and ramification is difficult. Still, a good oak specimen is awesome and worth the effort. I lost a twenty plus year old one, because I kept it TOO moist. The root ball directly underneath the trunk slowly decayed and became fatal. I say that so you can guard from the same. I understand oaks are prone to certain diseases and specifically mildew. I have not experienced that personally, but it does come from a respected source on English oak, Harry Tomlinson. A couple of years ago, Harry told me that personally, and I fully respect his judgement. I would believe your country would have a similar climate to England, so that should be good advice for you. Good luck with your oak. I like the way it is shaping up. Warmest regards, John
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John Dixon Si vis pacem parabellum Stay off the trails of others, that's where the booby-traps are. |
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#5 | |
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Bonsai hobbyist
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Quote:
yea the leaves on young oaks around here are pretty much covered in the stuff by summer. Not sure how they fare in cultivation, I have a very small sapling and that got a bit of mildew last year, but it was in a very sheltered spot-more airflow?
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Today is or was yesterday's tomorrow |
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#6 |
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student of bonsai
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Dear Larry,
Thanks for your advice. I’m actually quite satisfied with the stem-thickness so far. It doesn’t always have to be a fat trunk. Youthful or middle-aged looking oaks can be interesting too.
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Everything of value is defenseless |
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#7 |
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student of bonsai
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Dear Will,
This oak is only in training since 2003. I originally typed 1993, but this was a mistake. Thank you so much for your advice. I think your suggestion to let the main leader grow out to thicken the part above the original trunk chop is an excellent one. Think I’ll do that. The nebari are pretty lousy for the moment. Actually, there’s only one superficial root visible on the left hand side(see attachment). When I started this tree I was unaware of the importance of nebari. I regret I was that ignorant at the time, because now I have many trees with bad nebari. One day I will lower the surface of the ground to see if I can find more interesting nebari beneath the visible one. I hope I’m lucky. Otherwise I might consider grafting roots, or layering.
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Everything of value is defenseless |
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#8 |
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student of bonsai
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Dear John,
Thank you so much for your advice and suggestions. I planned to make the apex more rounded already. In this way, the tree will look older. In my experience too, oaks thicken up amazingly quickly, even when potted. Somebody once told me oaks don’t like being potted, but mine seem to be pretty happy nevertheless. Wire bites in very quickly too indeed. About the mildew: my oaks have it each growing season, but after treatment with an anti-fungicide it doesn’t spread further and does not seem to affect the vitality of the tree.
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Everything of value is defenseless |
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