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6-Nov-2002
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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
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Prunus Potensia
I posted this on IBC but know there are lots of peole here who do not post on the IBC gallery so here it is again.
 Hi, This is a Prunus I collected in 2001. I chopped it back to this point in spring 2002. Early spring a bud formed at the tip of the chop and I trained it to follow the curve of the original trunk line. I thought this was the way to go but now I think the main branches are up so high I would need a real tall tree. I don’t think the trunk is thick enough to pull it off. I really like the gentle curve of the trunk so would like it to be utilized at it’s current thickness. Is my best option to start growing branches from scratch? If so how far would you chop it back? I am open to any ideas except “put it in the composter”. lol
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6-Nov-2002
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#2 |
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Tips:5˘ Advice:Free
 
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I have said it before, but... it's very hard to create a convincing informal upright with a straight lower trunk. To create some energy in the lower trunk, I would cut back to the first branch on the left and tip it over about 30 degrees to the right.
Or you could keep it as is and tip it a bit to the left. Regards, Matt
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6-Nov-2002
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#3 |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
 
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Matt
That is exactly how I would treat this tree. I have seen it work very successfully before. Also at the point of the chop you hope to get a bud that will form the first branch of the tree and you keep chopping the trunk in a similar fashion until you achieve the desired informal upright. David |
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6-Nov-2002
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
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Alicia
I think I was describing the clip and grow method of creating an informal upright with your tree. I have drawn a picture of what I meant by clip and grow and how I think this tree will develop over time. In picture A this what you basically have. So if you chop as indicated by the black line and rotate 30deg to the right you will get picture B. In pic B from where you cut the trunk you should develop a branch from there. This will be kept and will be your number 1 branch. If you let the top grow for a while then you will need to cut as in pic B where black line is indicated. Let the top grow again. Pic C shows the result and where your number 2 branch will form from the wound. Chop the to growth again and keep repeating the steps until you are happy with the height and size of trunk. This can take some time to achieve but if in the ground will be much quicker. Hope this helps if you want to try something like this. David |
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6-Nov-2002
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#5 |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
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Here is an elm that was done in the same way. It took three years from seedling in the ground to achieve this. I hope to get a better picture of it. This is from one of our club members.
David |
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7-Nov-2002
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#6 |
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Growing...
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DavidN: That shows us how you can achieve something really good in really short time. Are you shure it only took 3 years to grow that bonsai? Your "tutorial" is allso great, I will propably start making bonsai that way next year.
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The journey of a thousand miles starts with a single cup of tea |
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7-Nov-2002
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#7 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
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WOW
Thanks for all your feed back. I have some serious reading to do here. I am going to be late for work so can't give you the reasponces you deserve right now but I will be back.
Thanks so much!! Alicia
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The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese. |
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7-Nov-2002
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#8 |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
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Tiny-Plant
The guy who did this grew it in the ground and did it the way the I described above. It took 3 years to get the trunk and branches in the right place. The nice folage pads took another 1-2 years. He said the key with it is that it was in the grown in ground. David. |
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8-Nov-2002
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#9 |
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Growing...
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DavidN: Yes, growing in the ground/growbox is the answer. Next year all my trees goes to growboxes. This far I have only grown my birch in a growbox with grate succes
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The journey of a thousand miles starts with a single cup of tea |
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8-Nov-2002
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#10 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
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Geezerman- I was sort of thinking the same way you are. I would like to develope branching bellow the current branches and have the final hight be perhaps no higher than 3" above the chop in this photo. The tree is just under 10" at the chop you see in the photo. I guess that would force me to have the first branch quite low.
Picturing the first and second branch following this plan makes me see what TreeBay and DavidN are getting at. The trunk would apear much straighter when brought down into a smaller package. (sorry 2.5 hours sleep last night so I cannot explain what I mean any better) DavidN - I like your diagram it is very helpful. I wonder if the trunk bellow the first branch isn't to long though to make it work as nicley as your diagram does. To me it looks like all new branches would be requierd for your plan as well. If the trunk bellow the first branch was shorter or thicker I think it would work well. I sure have a lot to consider now it seams I either have to grow the trunk thicker to pull off the diagramed plan or regrow all new branches and eventually ditch the branches I have currently. This tree budded back all the way down to one inch from the base this spring so getting the buds shouldn't be a problem. Much to consider. Thanks so much!
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The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese. |
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