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Project: Korean Maple

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Old 1-May-2004   #11
Psynapse
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Pot all wired shut and filled with soil. I let the edges overlap to hold the soil in better. That’s annealed copper through some holes I drilled.
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Old 1-May-2004   #12
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Tree all staked and tied sitting in partial shade, on the north side of my house.

Hurry up and wait.
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Old 1-May-2004   #13
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As a side note:

I decide to start the layer just above the dent / curve in the trunk on the left hand side and just below an old scar. (second pic on this page) I wanted get rid of the wonky dent while keeping as much girth as possible. The old scar is for character?
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Old 1-May-2004   #14
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Looks like an exciting project! I can taste those new roots already. Good luck!

Just a couple comments

1. Generally the peeled core should be at least as wide as the trunk is thick. Otherwise you can get bark bridging the cut.

2. I don't think the copper wire is going to give you big problems, but aluminum would be better for this purpose. Copper can inhibit root development to some degree. I have had no problems with it in contact with roots, but trying to generate roots is another story.

3. Be sure you cut your way down through the sapwood to heartwood. If you even have traces of pulp left, you can get cambium developing out of it. You'll know when you hit the wood because it's (relatively) very hard and not pulpy like the sapwood.

Regards,

Matt
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Old 1-May-2004   #15
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Hey Matt,

You know what, I was looking at my pictures thinking the same thing about the space of bark I removed. So I just went and pulled the soil back and sliced a little more off the bottom. Closer to the width of the trunk like you mentioned. Shouldn't hurt digging it up like that considering I only did the job a few hours ago.

I think I saw a new root poking though
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Old 1-May-2004   #16
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Sounds good. Not inspecting your progress too much will be the key to success. Put the tree out where it can get warmed by the sun and turn it every couple of days. DARKNESS+WARMTH+MOISTURE+AIR= NEW ROOTS!
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Old 2-May-2004   #17
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Hey, I am airlayering a Liquidambar, really similar than what you have shown, but I just cutted straight ring, anyway, I also thought it was good to leave the tree in partial shade, but now that I read what Matt wrote, I think I will take it to the sun...

Matt, have you ever tried to practice 2 airlayers at the same time? Would it work out?
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Old 3-May-2004   #18
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Hi Jose,

I think two air layers would work at the same time as long as they are on separate branches. Not in line on a single branch or stem.

I have put my tree where it gets sun from sun up to about noon. I imagine it is not going to be doing as much photosynthisizing(sp) as before the layering. But a warm pot is good for root growth. I put mine in a black pot to soak up more suns rays.



So Matt, you think we should go full sun?
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Old 3-May-2004   #19
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I don't know if your sun is like my sun. I suspect full sun in British Columbia is fine. About half of my maples receiving only sun through about 2 o'clock. They seem to do better, but it's been hot lately. ~90 degreesF

Inline air layers can work fine. I have seen three on a tree. The process is the same. However if it is a valuable layer it would probably be best to limit your layering to one per limb for a better chance of success.

Regards,

Matt
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Old 3-May-2004   #20
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I just wanted to thank everyone involved with this thread for their sharing and advice. I have an almost identical Korean Maple situation that I just started working on. I chose to go the minor ground layer route to improve the roots before starting any trunk chopping.

Thanks again,

-Cody

PS Psynapse, where about in BC are you? I grew up in the Okanagan before moving to the desolate wastelands of Calgary.
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