Pinus contorta subsp. murrayana wiring

darrellw

I picked up this Pinus contorta subsp. murrayana last fall. So far I have just repotted it into a (large) pond basket. The trunk is 2" (5 cm) at the base, and the tree is currently 40" (1 m) tall. The picture is the likely front, based on the nebari and bends in the lower trunk. I still have not completly settled on how I plan to style it, but it do know that I want to enhance the current curves in the trunk, and carry them further up the tree.

Based on my experience with my contest tree, I believe that my best bet would be to use copper wire. As I have not used copper before, I was wondering if anyone could offer some suggestions on what size I should use. Before anyone is feeling smart, please don't say "big enough to hold the shape" . I just need some idea where to start.

Also, I don't plan to put any radical bends in, but I do think the wire will have to be on the tree for some time before it "takes". Should I wrap the trunk?

Lastly, if anyone wants to create an awsome virt, I would like to see it. Right now, I'm thinking that I would remove about 1/4 to 1/3 of the current trunk and start a new leader, thin out the branches, add some movement to them, and shorten them (not all at once, of course).

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badlad52

I personally would not use wire on something this thick. So I'll try to explain what you need to make, because sadly my digital camera is not working at the moment...

Go to Home Depot and buy a 1x4 oak board, as long as you think you will need (based on how many curves you want in the trunk...). While you are there, grab some 5" eye bolts, threaded the entire shaft, with some washers and wing nuts. Get two eye bolts for every bend you want to make. Grab a couple feet of 1" rubber tubing, too.
When you get home, cut 45 degree angles out of the oak (you are making 4" tall triangles), so that each peice has a 90 degree angle on the top, and 45 degree angles on the left and right sides. Drill holes about 1/2 inch from both 45 degree side, parrallel to a line drawn from the apex of the 90 degree to the middle of the two 45's. Make the holes a bit larger than the eye bolts, because the wood swells when it gets wet, and they could get stuck!

Now, using pliers, and brute force, bend open the eye bolts so you can fit them over the trunk of the tree, and push them through the holes in the oak. Put on the wahers, and thread on the wing nuts, and you are ready to go!

You will need a peice of tubing for each place the tip (90 degree) of the oak touches your trunk, and for every eye bolt. I also found it useful to sand down the sharp 90 degree point, so it's not so hard on the trunk.

Now, with the whole thing put together, push the eye bolts over the trunk, making sure the 90 degree point is touching the trunk too. If I explained this well, tightening the wing nuts should pull the trunk DOWN againts the 90 degree point, leaving you with, eventually, a 90 degree bend.

And before I go on at all, "Does that make any sense at all?"

Later,

Lad

darrellw

Hi Lad,

Your idea makes sense, basically a homemake version of a branch bender/jack.

I can't believe that no one has any opinion on what gauge copper wire to use, this isn't usually a group with a lack of opinions .

-Darrell

JGamby713

Hey there Neighbor


I personally wouldn't worry about wrapping the trunk with raffia. If you are going to do some extreme bending then yes, but not with what you explained. As for wire size, I would use #4 or #6. You may need to double up the wire, not sure though since I haven't seen the tree in person. If you want to get the best copper wire I have ever used go to jimgremel.com and tell him I sent ya. Good guy, best wire and best pricing.

Nice potensai material, good find.

Also, I agree with creating a new leader....

Keep in touch, Jason

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darrellw

Hi Jason,

Thanks for the pointer to the wire, looks like good stuff.

There are a couple of nurseries here that carry this. The one I got is the most "normal", most are very contorted. The bad thing is that mine is also among the smallest, most are 4-5 ft. I think these must be collected from somewhere, they were in balled in very sandy soil inside of 15 gallon pots.

Maybe I'll try to bring the tree along to a BSOP meeting. I was thinking of saving it for Walter's visit in June, though I have several other trees for that.

-Darrell

mike_p

I see this tree as just begging to be a bunjin. No more curves in the trunk are needed. Just my 2 cents worth.

Mike

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bonsaial1

I agree with Mike Page. The trunk is thin and and the branches are in the upper portion of the tree. Growing a larger trunk as well as developing branches down low is a project for those that have nothing but time. In a short amount of time a worthy Literati could be produced that would maximise the potential of the stock as it is.

Regards, Al

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hansvanmeer

Hi DARRELLW,

Here are some tips for working with copper wire.
Although wiring with aluminium or copper wire surves the same purpose, the technics in apliyng the both is somewhat differend!
Copper wire is used by most proffesionals ; because after it is bend it hardens almost instently, this means that it holds a branche better in place with much less thick wire than when you would use aluminium wire to bend the same branche, because Aluminium wire stays flexible! It also after some time turns into a nice darkbrown colour!
This is a plus, but there is also a downside to this, especialy when you use thick copper wire, once you bend it around a branche it has to be don right the first time because it wont bend back anymore!
Also because it is so stiff you have to make sure you support every bend you make along the branche with your thumb and index finger of your free hand, otherwise you will allmost surtenly damage the bark,or put it on to loos or even wurse: to tight!
That is why copper wire should be a little loser applied then aluminium, and there is no room for errors!
I tried to explain in the drawing a other thing that is very important in using copper wire, If you put the wire on before you bend the branche and the wire does not stretch or bend any more, it wil dig in the bark along the red arrows, the opposite wil happen allong the green arrows: there the wire comes together because of the bending and therefor will open up, leaving a space between the wire and the branche! Therefor while you put on the wire with your right hand, the left hand should not only surport the wire like i mentioned before, but your hand should also be bending the branche more or less in the intended possition! So bend the branche, than the next turn with the wire, hold the branche there, and so on!
The copper will harden and wil hold the branche then almost in the right possition without beeing to loos or to tight, and now it is also stil posible to make some small adjustments!
Dowing it in this way the change of damiging or breaking the branch is very small, it also means you can use less wire to hold the branche in its place!
In the case off your tree you can also use a peace of iron bar (see pic), it wil save you a lot of wire, and there is less change off damaging the bark!
I never use copper on a tree that is still in training, only when i need to bend a realy thick branche I will use it! Aluminium is good enough, much cheaper and not so difficold to put on!
Tip: When you use copper wire just before the bonsai goes in a show, the fresh copper collor will be very noticeble, with a small brush and some jinseal you can paint the copper wire, and in a few days it will turn into a darkbrown colour!
Hope this helps some,
Best regards,
Hans van Meer.

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mcseccnp

If you are going to wire it dont water it for a couple of days. Make sure you use rafffia on trunk. I would find an electrician and ask for scraps then heat it up on the barbecue to aneal it. Good luck nice tree!!!