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30-Apr-2006
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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
Join Date: Jul-2005
Location: Wellesley, Massachusetts
Country: USA
USDA Zone: 6a
AHS Heat Zone: 4 5
Posts: 48
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New Trident
I just picked up this trident maple (acer buergeranum) today. I went to my local nursery today with my sights set on getting a pre-bonsai that was a little farther along than most of my other trees which are still in the trunk/nebari development phase. Anyway, I've never tackled such a big project as this and advice would be appreciated. Clearly, I plan to reduce/shape the foliage mass as a whole, but do you see anything else?
Height: 20.5 in (52.1 cm) Trunk Width: 3 in (7.62 cm) Foliage Width (at widest point): 15 in (38.1 cm) Thanks, Billy P1: Front P2: Trunk P3: Possibly Problematic Bar Branch |
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New Trident |
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30-Apr-2006
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#2 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
Join Date: Jul-2005
Location: Wellesley, Massachusetts
Country: USA
USDA Zone: 6a
AHS Heat Zone: 4 5
Posts: 48
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P4: Back P5: Possibly better view of trunk
Thanks again. |
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30-Apr-2006
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#3 |
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bonsaiTALK Adept
 
Join Date: Jun-2005
Location: Gloucestershire
Country: United Kingdom
Posts: 215
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Hi Billy,
That looks like a nice tree. If it were mine I would do nothing to it this season. I'd simply let it grow and after leaf fall study it over the winter to decide a front, which branches should stay or go, which branches to thicken and so on. Then, next March, having had plenty of time to settle on a plan of attack, go for it!
__________________
Best regards Zoot 'You got to be original, man...' Lester Young 1909-1959 |
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30-Apr-2006
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#4 |
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tree lover
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i totally agree with zoot's suggestion. by the way, i like P4 for the front.
__________________
"I now pronounce you, Man and Tree." |
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30-Apr-2006
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#5 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
Join Date: Jul-2005
Location: Wellesley, Massachusetts
Country: USA
USDA Zone: 6a
AHS Heat Zone: 4 5
Posts: 48
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p4?
Thanks for the advice zoot, I might speed up the process a little bit by doing all the studying after an early summer defoliation. The tree seems to be in good health (with the exception of a little leaf burn on a few) and I know the nursery it came from, so I think it could take a little clipping.
L5- do you really think p4 is better? the trunk definitely looks more powerful from that angle, but I think the knot on the side I had marked as the front counterbalances that. Does anyone have anything to say about the bar branch, or the low right side branch (from the front view)? I first thought that the lower right branch would have to go, but I did a quick virt on paint and the tree seemed to have a big gap without it. By the way, the 'bar branch' is the first branch on the left (from the front) and a branch directly to the right of it. Thanks. -Billy |
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1-May-2006
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#6 |
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bonsaiTALK Artisan
Join Date: Oct-2005
Location: Westfield, Indiana
Country: United States
Posts: 130
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Nice tree, Looks like the large scar is nearly healed. Give me encouragement on the sar I have currently healing. In pic 2, there is a large branch on the left, have you thought of removing it. Without it, you'd have VERY nice taper.
Another question, are you happy with the current structure of main branches (placement, movement, number of secondary branches etc...)? The reason I ask, is that if you're not and you plan to work them (ie, to cut them back to 2" or so re-grow), why defoliate this year? Why not just let it grow right now, later this year remove the large side branch and allow it to heal, cut the other branch's back late fall/early spring too? Very nice tree. Regards. |
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1-May-2006
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#7 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
Join Date: Jul-2005
Location: Wellesley, Massachusetts
Country: USA
USDA Zone: 6a
AHS Heat Zone: 4 5
Posts: 48
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Neil, the more I think about it, the more I can see your point. I was thinking that the trunk/main branches were fine, and I was gonna work on branch rammification with the defoliation. Now, looking at that fat first branch, I'm thinkin it might need some re-design.
Another problem (I'm not sure if it shows in the picture) is that there is a consistant slant (about 60 degrees up from the base) until about 2 inches from the top. There, the new leader decided to shoot straight up, ruining the fluidity of its slant. There are no other branches that aim in the right direction, so I'm not sure how to work that. It's tough to get a good shot of it, I'll try though. Any ideas? Thanks for the advice/compliments again. |
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1-May-2006
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#8 |
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bonsaiTALK Artisan
Join Date: Oct-2005
Location: Westfield, Indiana
Country: United States
Posts: 130
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Not sure if the 60 deg. slant is a problem. If the rootage still looks good, change the potting angle. Depending on how far you cut it back, and how you grow another leader, this could add some good movement/taper.
After removing the "fat" branch, you can allow the others to grow out this year. You said "not going in the right direction" Did you mean not in the right spot as in origin or just not growing in the right direstion as in movement? If it was right spot as in origin a thread or aproach graft could work well. I understand they are smiple and reliable with tridents. If you meant movement/ direction, you can cut them back to 1-2" after dormancy then, when new growth emerges and hardens, wire them for movement and keep cutting back 1-2X per year depending on the growth rate. Just remeber to leave an inch or so past where the last bud in the evnt of dieback on the branch during colder months. I think defoliation and fine ramification is someting you should do later, after you've worked on a good foundation. |
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