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#1 |
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Tips:5¢ Advice:Free
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Japanese Black Pine
This pine's here for your comments. What do you like or dislike? What would you do if it were yours?
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#2 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
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Re: Japanese Black Pine
Hey, I'm a new bonsai guy, but I would change the pot right off if it were my tree. I see a more shallow pot. By the picture you posted I would place it a pot that holds a shallow pool of water just under the right side of the tree. I have seen such pots in various books, but I don't know if your species is typically found near water in nature. Maybe a little ornamental rock in the pool, or another tree grown over rock in the pool.
Phoenix X |
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#3 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
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Re: Japanese Black Pine
This is a nice tree and I think that the stile of pot is right for this stile of tree. I think that I would wire the crown for definition and apply techniques to increase ramification. I know that the Japanese like to thin out the foaliage in a tree like this but my tastes run more to smaller tighter pads with shorter needles........ni.ce.doe
ripsgreentree
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ripsgreentree It requires an open hand to give and to recieve. |
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK Expert
Join Date: Sep-2001
Posts: 169
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Re: Japanese Black Pine
Rip,
How would you go about shortening the needles? I have a Japanese red pine that looks very similiar to this black pine. However, I heard or read somewhere that trimming the foliage would harm the rest of the needle. thanks, Soildoc |
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#5 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
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Re: Japanese Black Pine
Soildoc:
Do a little expeeriment. It is fall and the central candles are just starting to form for spring. Select a limb that is unnecessary to the design of the tree. Remove the central candle bud and cut the needels to half of there lingth. Watch this branch in the spring and see what happins. I am betting that you will get small back buds that will produce shorter needles. If not it is an unnecessary branch and no harm is done. ripsgreentree
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ripsgreentree It requires an open hand to give and to recieve. |
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#6 |
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Tips:5¢ Advice:Free
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Re: Japanese Black Pine
Hi There Soildoc,
There are many ways to reduce needle length. Ripsgreentree is right that most involve cutting the central candle or removing it entirely. Red pines are not as robust as Black, but you can apply many of the same techniques. One method is discussed on the TreeBay site. It needs some follow up photographs, but the basic strategy is discussed here. The key with pines is timing. It's a bit late for decandling in most part of the world. You need time for the new candles to harden off before frost, but as Rips says, you can try a sacrificial branch to get the idea. If you cut through the needles of a black pine, the tips will ooze sap, brown off and look unsightly. It takes a week or so to happen, so some folks will do this right before a show and get away with it, but there are better ways!
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#7 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
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Re: Japanese Black Pine
Matt:
I understand that this is your forem, but I will do this anyway. The technique that I was talking about is one that I use to increase spring buds or if you prefer back budding. In the fall the central candle bud is forming and hardening off, when you remove it small buds form lower in the needles and harden off. Yes when you cut the needles on a red pine in the fall you will have brown tips in about six weeks. This discussion was about shortening needle lingth and not show preperation. Also if you have a better way to do this as you have suggested, please print it out so that the rest of us can read and apply it to our own trees. Last the only reason that I suggested a sacrifice branch is because I do not know the health of Soil Docs tree. I do however know the results of the technique that I have suggested being as I apply it to my own trees. ripsgreentree P.S. Boy do I need a camera!!!
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ripsgreentree It requires an open hand to give and to recieve. |
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#8 |
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bonsaiTALK Expert
Join Date: Sep-2001
Posts: 169
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Re: Japanese Black Pine
I'll give this a try. I live in Mississippi, so I have some time left before the tree goes dormant for the winter (If it actually does. It is relatively warm here even in January) and I don't show the tree anyway. It is strictly for my experimenting.
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#9 |
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bonsaiTALK Expert
Join Date: Sep-2001
Posts: 169
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Re: Japanese Black Pine
I'll give this a try. I live in Mississippi, so I have some time left before the tree goes dormant for the winter (If it actually does. It is relatively warm here even in January) and I don't show the tree anyway. It is strictly for my experimenting.
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#10 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Re: Japanese Black Pine
I like many of the tree's qualities. It has excellent movement in the trunk and the growth appears to be healthy and well balanced.
The pot choice is probably bad, at least according to traditional standards. Cobalt blue = mallsai. I have a real hard time putting anything in a blue pot anymore, even if it is the appropriate color choice! Anyhow, unglazed is the way to go; color aside, the pot seems too small and deep for the style. The tree seems unbalanced- like it's going to fall over to the right. Perhaps something longer and shallower, angled sides... Now for the tree... it seems like an excellent piece of material but needs refinement. It is hard to tell because the picture is small and the dimensionality is lost, but the branches seem to be emerging cock's comb fashion. Maybe "broomstyle" is more accurate. If this were my tree, I'd do some critical branch selection followed by detailed wiring, pulling branches down to give them the feeling of weight. I'd probably lean toward a literati style given the trunk movement and height. This would in turn drive my final pot decision. This tree would be fun to play with using virtual design!
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Jim Stone Seki Bonsai Studio sekibonsai.com Santa Fe, TX |
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