Ideas? Mugho Pine

Mnbonsai

Hello,
I wonder if I could get some input on styling advice on this large pine. I have a post in the general catagory regarding trying to save this tree.

I think I require to remove more foliage due to a small root mass.
I need more information regarding options with needles so far up the tree.

You can see by the natural bend to the trunk I may have to go cascade style with the main trunk.
Thanks for Help in advance.

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TreeBay

I don't see a cascade here,

I'm sure Karl can help give you some ideas with collected material like this but you definitely need to reduce the foliage mass. I hope you have some drainage holes in that tub too.

But in any case, your first priority is saving the plant. I have seen the roots in another thread. You'll want to get a sharp lopper and cut most every large branch back to a point an inch or abso past where the twigs carrying the first strong, green shoots. Don't deadhead any branches (cutting them back to a point where there is no foliage on them) or they will probably die.

So for example, for a large branch an inch thick that runs ten inches with no taper and then puts off a little side shoot with three little tufts on it - cut it back about 12 inches, an inch or two after the side shoot and save all the foliage on that side shoot.

The only exceptions to this are your apex and two promising side branches, if you think you really see a cascade.

Leave the cascade branch alone, and cut the apex back to the point at which taper stops, but where you have a nice strong top branch. This might be a point 24 inches up or so. I would cut it right about the point where the "wet mark" stops. Especially if that branch coming off to the right is as strong as it looks. When the mugho gets healthy, it will bud back along the trunk and branches, but it won't do it while it has too many branches for the roots to support.

Start with some side branches, and post a pic showing us what you've done. We'll let you know if it's right. I anticipate you will be removing about 85% of the existing foliage, leaving strong shoots which lie as close to the trunk as possible.

Next get hold of some wilt-proof or anti stress 2000. They often sell it for florists or christmas trees. Then you can spray the entire tree thoroughly to reduce transpiration through the remaining needles.

Regards,

Matt

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Mnbonsai

Matt,
The cascade I thought I saw was due to the large back bend of the main trunk from the side shot. Not sure exactly how high I should go I didnt think I could bend it.

Thanks for the advice also. I will probably be removing all (sucker branches) on the left of the picture down to the base.
I still am not sure where to cut the main trunk but I will keep looking.

I may be able to upright if I use a side right branch for an apex later.

Any other info or a vert may be helpful as well.
Thanks
Tim

TreeBay

I would not remove the "suckers." These are actually branches. Suckers come from the root system. The surviving branches will be useful, and they will bud back easily. The branch cut off on the right might have been a good one too. Start out by cutting the apex down to 24" or so ( the point where the trunk is no longer wet in your picture) With 60% of the bulk gone it will be much easier to see the tree.

It's really too early to do any virtuals on this tree, because who knows which portions will survive? But the goal is to keep as many useful branches alive as possible.

Regards,

Matt.

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Mnbonsai

Duh, I feel like an idiot not recognizing the "base" as part of the tree.

Alright I guess these are no longer suckers just branches

Here is a pic with the apex cut and more shots showing branch structure. I cut the right one off because there was a similar branch closer to the large one. You can see it in the pic.

with the side branches on the right - I guess I dont see what you are seeing, thats the benefit of the internet!
Thanks
Tim

TreeBay

Getting closer! Yes the base is the tree for the most part.

Keep in mind though that you can't really decide which branches the tree will shed. It may drop the apex and keep a big side branch or who knows. So you cover your bases! The larger branches might become separate trunks in a multi-trunk design.

Can you take another shot from a distance so we can see the whole thing again?

Regards,

Matt

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Mnbonsai

Got it, Thanks

TreeBay

I would remove no more than 1/2 the remaining foliage now. Chase it back towards the interior of the tree. Maybe two or three branchlets for each branch, but pick the strongest healthiest twigs you can find, and don't cut the candles off the tips either!

The compromise is between proximity to the trunk and strength of the buds. For now, chose strength over proximity. But if there are weaker branchlets closer to the trunk than the strong ones, let them be.

Then you can spray with the anti-transpirant and soak with B-1 or Superthrive (if you are the religious sort). Keep it outside, mist daily and water only when the soil starts to show signs of drying, but water copiously then. Put it on a couple of bricks to improve the drainage. I hope you have nice holes in the tub that we can't see!

If not, a hot piece of iron pipe warmed in the barbecue to red hot can be used to push holes into it. Good luck, and remember even if it doesn't survive, you've learned a lot! If it happens that you don't have holes and have to repot, set the tree a little lower next time if you can so the soil doesn't wash out.

Regards,

Matt

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Mnbonsai

Matt,
Thanks for all your help. Yes there are 3 one inch holes in the bottom of the container.

Just to get this straight for me and trying not to tie you up for long. You stated do not cut off the candles. So I do not cut exsisting branches back that I wish to keep, ie if the foliage is 8 inches down from the tip with candle do not cut it back 4 inches or so removing the candles?

I have a small mugho outside now but nights are 20+ and days are 40+ sometimes. I assume not to mist when freezing?

Thanks for all your advice.