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#1 |
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Learning Every Day
Join Date: Apr-2002
Posts: 241
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Hornbeam for discussion
Hi there
I know this is hardly a bonsai, but as i have a few months to wait till I can layer the top, I thought it might be worth discussion. It is currently autumn here..err fall ![]() I live in south australia (hot dry summers and mild winters...frost? whats that??).Unfortunately, it is hard to get any good material for cold climate trees in my area. This hornbeam is currently about 9 feet tall, it is 10cm at the base and the picture shows the bottom 50cm up to point F. My questions are.. 1. Points A and B both have two options for the branch, thick and thin. The larger branches are very flexible and will be more so come spring. Would you choose the larger or smaller branches? 2. Behind point C there is a back branch, would you use this back branch or use the side branch at C and either wait for a bud (HaHa) or graft a back branch between points B and C? 3. Where would you cut the top off? Im thinking E but I havent done it yet! I look forward to any replies, thanks ![]() Jules ![]() |
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#2 |
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ONLY artistic talents...
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Re: Hornbeam for discussion
Hi there too
![]() 1. & 3. I'd probably cut the trunk at the G-spot ( ) or as you said, E.If you choose G and bend that thick branch to form an apex, you should use the thicker branches at A and B. If your choice is E, you should cut them off and use the thinner ones. 2. I'd use both branches. Or if I had to choose which one to cut off, I'd cut the side branch. Ossi Hanhinen
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#3 |
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Tips:5¢ Advice:Free
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Re: Hornbeam for discussion
Hornbeam are great for bonsai. E looks like a good point for a cut, maybe after doing a layer up just a bit higher on the trunk, just under the G branch.
The problem is taper. You can have movement in the trunk and no taper, but if you have no movement, and no taper, well, then you need flowers! ![]() One interesting consideration is the root system. See the Strong A & G branches that point in the same direction? Now look down at the roots and it appears that the root system is largely one-sided. Usually there is symmetry between the root system and the canopy, so the imbalance in the vigor of the branches suggests there may be a defect in the balance of the roots. It might be best to get down into the soil before you decide which branch and therefore "front" to use in your tree. Otherwise you might be looking at a ground layer to restore the root system. This isn't a bad idea, by the way, but you should know what you're getting into if you choose the wrong "front" Regards, Matt
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
Join Date: Apr-2002
Posts: 8
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Re: Hornbeam for discussion
Cut it of cut it right of. you have ot in a grow bag or ready and the work on the roots will be easy so go for a nice broom cut the trunk to about a foot , seal the woundand wrap the top with something like hose pipe and let it grow. from the top only. as this is going on you can refine thre root structure
Scott |
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#5 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Re: Hornbeam for discussion
I agree with Matt. Get into the soil and see what the surface roots look like. I'ts always a problem with taper on trees that big. I'm not much of a cut and chop person for that very reason. I think taper is very important.
It looks like the movement of the trunk, from that angle is that it's pidgon breasted with the movement going towards the back, which is OK. It might make a slanting if you choose a different front, it's hard to tell from the photo. I wouldn't try to make a broom out of it. Beeches and Hornbeams aren't as vigorous as a Zelkova or Elm. I know from working with them. We have both growing naturually around where I live. As far as where to cut, I'd study the tree a little more to see which front your going to use.
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GaryS |
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