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9-Jul-2008
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#11 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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What do you think it is ?
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Sponsor Message
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Hinoki cypress, subtle slant style |
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Forum Sponsor
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9-Jul-2008
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#12 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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I think you may be correct - it had an Iseli tag on it that said 'obtusa nana gracilis', but the foliage looks more like 'obtusa' with white marks on the underside.
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9-Jul-2008
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#14 |
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bonsaiTALK Adept
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Quick question Dtree:
I did a fairly dramatic root reduction on on a hinkoi late this spring when I repotted. I'd guess about 2/3 of the overall mass. A lot, I know. So here's my question: there are a few limbs that will ultimately go away in when I style next year, but a couple in particular for a T that is a burgeoning inverse taper. I'd really like to nip just those two off sooner rather than later. Do you think it's safe to do the same season as a major root reduction? Thanks for any info.
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http://www.thecoconutinternet.com |
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9-Jul-2008
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#15 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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You should really ask the guy that started the thread, or someone with more experience in Hinoki cypress. You are probably not going to hurt yourself by waiting until next year.
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9-Jul-2008
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#16 |
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bonsaiTALK Adept
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Oh oops...good point. Well hopefully Oct will happen by and weigh in.
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9-Jul-2008
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#17 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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Hi Rob,
Pretty good start for the intital styling! To me, it looks like you quit right before you got to the apex of the tree. It looks a bit "Topiary" and if you could do a bit more wiring in there and create some negative space it would make a world of difference. Apex's are the hardest part to style of a tree and if done right makes or breaks the tree. Just my 2cents! Best, Jason |
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10-Jul-2008
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#18 |
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tree love
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You've made a good piece from a difficult species, although the first thing I noticed was the bend in the trunk indicated by the blue arrow.
This is right in the middle of the tree, so, in accordance with the 'rule of three', I think that you should reduce the height a bit more by cutting at the red line, so that the bend appears at 2/3 of the height of the tree. I think this way, it would be less distracting, and the tree itself may look more balanced if you increased the angle of the bend, bringing the new apex over the centre of the tree a bit more. Not to critisize, just my opinion and some ideas for the future as you develop the tree.
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Richard |
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10-Jul-2008
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#19 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
Join Date: Jul-2006
Location: massachusetts
Country: United states
Posts: 515
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Hello dtree.......These trees die back basically from the inside. Harsh, drying winter winds are probably the biggest enemy to this species. If you do not protect this tree properly, you will be losing large amounts of interior foliage that WILL NOT grow back.
Besides protection from harsh, especially, Winter drying winds, another technique you can utilize is pinching. However, this is reserved for a healthy, vigorous tree. By pinching the foliage, it sends the energy backwards and keeps the foliage healthy. Failure to keep pinching will lead to the foliage extending longer longer. Meanwhile, the interior foliage is dying because the energy is being sent to the ends. Lastly, wiring is a very effective aesthetic technique for Hinokis. If an area is bare, you can wire a small sub branch with foliage on it into that area. Eventually, new foliage will grow and fill almost the whole area. I have done this with great success on the the one I have been training for six years. That is one positive thing about this species. Even though it only grows from where it is green, it really grows...so a little tuft of foliage can create the look of half a foliage pad in a couple of seasons. p.s. I like your Hinoki very much. It has great, great potential. Hell JGamby731.....This tree, although it looks like a bonsai, has many years before it is a truly nice bonsai....I somewhat agree about the apex. I did break it up somewhat and thought about breaking it up some more. However, it is probably a good idea to leave what is left for now, especially with this species. After its first winter with me, I will see how much foliage survives, then come next spring, I will have a good idea of what I am working with, so I can prune accordingly. The apex is somewhat of a flat top, which, I believe will benefit this tree. Since the tree grows form the tips, this tree will form a mountain shaped apex probably on its own. It can be tough to get a good apex with this species. Most of Hinkoi that are in training, you will notice there is a thin main branch than a few small branches coming off the sides. With this tree, My apex seems already formed. Basically, Most of the foliage on the tree is old and very dark green. As the years go on, most of the foliage on there now will probably die off and, hopefully be replaced with lighter, healthier foliage. This tree has many years of root training and upper, especially, sub btranch training. This is only the begining and foundation of this tree. Rob |
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10-Jul-2008
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#20 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
Join Date: Jul-2006
Location: massachusetts
Country: United states
Posts: 515
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left out a reply......Hello ElgGringo. Yes, the tree is a bit tall. I had mentioned that in the starting of this thread. I also made mention to how it had the look of giant landscape spruces that are very tall, but have still maintained their lower branches.
Sadly, there was no way to make this tree shorter. I spent days looking at it from absolutely every angle and tilt. I tried several times to create a possible shohin, but it would not have been possible, there were no branches that would, have lent itself to be a new apex. Most of the branches where way too thin and would have looked terrible with this thick trunk and this horribly disproportionate apex. Even in 10 years, the tree would not look proportioned. Not to mention if there was some dieback, then the tree would be ruined. This is just what you have to deal with when a tree will not back bud. If this where another species, I may have given it a shot. Also, when the tree forms its sub branching, the foliage will cover the harsh bend. ALso, when the branches extend further out, the silhouette will appear fuller, hence, giving the look of a shorter,and more balanced tree. I did consider every option for this tree. I even considered eliminating branches, However, the distance would be too great and ruin the design. As the years go on, the trunk will thicken, the branches will extend and the sub branches will form giving the tree a better look. Who knows, down the line, I may decide to bend the trunk some. The next couple of years will be spent getting this tree to produce all new foliage along with taking down that huge, compact root system. Thanks for replying... Rob |
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