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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
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Ficus salicifolia
I have been working on this tree for about five years. It is 17 inches tall. I repooted the tree last year and I defoliated the tree a week ago. I have included a photo of a possible new front. a couple years ago I lost power in the middle of the winter and the greenhouse got down to the mid 30's. Lost a few branches but now trees.
I would appreciate your critique of my tree. Thanks Dgale, Welcome to bonsaiTalk. I have moved your submission for the more general viewing of the membership, since I do not believe Walter can give meaningful advice on material that is still some way away from being "Show Ready". Please post some more pictures up when the leaves have returned.This will add to the ones provided already and we will be able to help you. Last edited by Ian_Homer : 10-Jul-2005 at 11:46 AM. Reason: Moved from ATM |
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#2 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
Join Date: Jan-2004
Location: South Texas
Country: U.S.A.
USDA Zone: 9-10
AHS Heat Zone: 11
Posts: 1,195
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Dgale,
nice tree.I like the current front the best. problems?....the apex is getting a little thick.You might want to replace it with one of the many smaller branches up there.And, you've got a bit of a knob about half way up where the bar branches are.even more than the aesthetics of the bar branches themselves,the swelling they sometimes create is a good reason to avoid them.I'm sure these "faults" are less visible when the tree is in leaf. All in all,really a nice looking bonsai.Some might say that it should be trained in a more tropical style.ie.wider than it is tall..but i like the route you have chosen for this tree.It looks more like a temperate deciduous tree to me which is fine.(again,too me )andy |
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#3 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
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Thanks Andy,
This is the first time I have completely defoliated the tree. All of the faults really pop out at you now. I figured this was the best time to get opinions on the tree while you can see all of the branches. When I started the tree it was very tall and I thought it looked more like a diciduous tree then a banyon style so I went along with that plan. I definitly need to get rid of the Bar branches. Thanks again. |
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Dgale,
I like what you have working here.. The current front has nice nebari and a good structure going up the tree. As Andy pointed out you have some knobing and bars, which can be worked in time so no biggy. The first branch on the right gives me a slanted feel for the tree. It is worked well, but the remainder of the composition stands erect. I tilted the tree about 15 degrees to the right, prunned some branches off, and back. It still needs some refining with wire and clip and grow .. Excuse my virt but I hope it gives you an idea of what I am talking about. Not sure what you have in mind for the proposed front but the roots don’t flow well from the trunk at that view..
__________________
peace, tom stoute http://bonsaiinsights.spaces.live.com/ |
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#5 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
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Thanks Tom,
I had not thought about slanting the tree but your virt gives me some ideas. I think I will take some of the other branches out before the leaves come back in. When I repot next spring I might try the slanting idea. Thanks again. |
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#6 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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Why not repot now? In our northern climate, unless you have a heated greenhouse, and probably even then, working on these tropicals (repotting and defoliating) should be done in the heat of early summer (I usually say before August 1), not in the cool of spring, as we do with our temperate trees.
You may want to see threads about schefflera arboricola here - shows several defoliated and re-potted now.
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David Yedwab |
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#7 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
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So repoting the tree just a year after the last time is OK?
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#8 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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I usually repot trops every other year, some do every year, especially for young and very vigorous stock. The real important part, in my opinion, is to work in the heat of early summer.
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David Yedwab |
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