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25-Mar-2008
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#11 | |
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Bonsai mai-farli-bene
 
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KC... I thought I would have a stroke over my impertinence of asking him if he would like help. But I am deeply glad I did... as is he. Nothing ventured... nothing gained. I have gained much.  Your friend, Victrinia |
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Sponsor Message
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Elanden Gardens Project: Ponderosa Pine (WARNING: EMBEDDED PHOTOS!) |
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Forum Sponsor
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25-Mar-2008
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#12 | |
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Bonsai mai-farli-bene
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Pat and Antonio...
Thank you for the kind remarks. I will certinally post more photos when we get a chance to work on it more.  Quote:
Barbara... I think the best thing Daniel has ever done for me, is to teach me not to get hung up in how I accomplish my work.... just be effective. It's like the copper vs. alluminum wire issue some people wrestle with. Daniel would tell you it's not wire that makes great bonsai, it's only a tool, and nothing more. If it's copper, alluminum, or bailing wire, it makes no difference as long as it is effective. Thank you for your very kind comments as well. I'll be posting more soon, as spring unfolds. Kindest regards to all, Victrinia |
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27-Mar-2008
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#13 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Vic,
This is the ponderosa I am debating. As you can see it has a pronounced bow between the two trunks. While each trunk looks straight, they actually have some subtle movement in them that is clealry visible when viewed in person. Nevertheless, what to do with the bow.?Get rid of one trunk? Severely bend one of them? Also the lower limbs are fairly weak, so does it make sense to graft? If so, how.? Incidentally, I was told that Dan actually collected this tree many years ago. I have wondered if that's true and if Dan happens to remember it. I was also told that part of the tree was cut off and ring counted at the University of Kentucky many years ago as well. Not sure, if that would help him remember it. I am sure he has many trees to remember. Nevertheless, I have been debating this tree for quite awhile now and am just stumped. It is approxamately 45 inches across by 35 inches tall. So, it's rather large. The only thing I did last season was cut the needles back hard and feed a lot. I left the lower limbs alone. It looks much neater presently. I intend to plant it in a larger pot this spring, no root pruning, just bigger pot. And ponder. Last edited by Yandrosxx : 27-Mar-2008 at 01:32 AM. |
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27-Mar-2008
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#14 |
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bonsaiTALK Artisan
Join Date: Mar-2007
Location: Augusta, MI
Country: US
Posts: 141
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"It was only collected this spring in Wyoming"
I will pray for the tree! Slow down people, give trees like this some respect. Very surprised to hear of someone working a pine so soon after collection. Normally you wait for at least 2 years to allow the tree to get used to potted culture and to put out some roots. It sounds like he know what he is doing so it will probably be fine but why rush it? Anyway good technique and photos! Newt
__________________
We don't stop playing because we grow old, we grow old because we stop playing! Check out my blog: http://knowledgeofbonsai.org/eric_newton/ I hear and I forget I do and I remember I teach and I understand... -Chinese Proverb- |
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27-Mar-2008
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#15 | |
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bonsaiTALK Artisan
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Quote:
Dan remembers just about every tree he has collected and exactly where almost all of them were collected from (the averages is prolly closer to 95% but having collected hundreds/thousands of trees over the last 50 years i would say that aint bad) If we remember we'll have him take a look and see if he remembers it..... |
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27-Mar-2008
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#16 | |
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bonsaiTALK Artisan
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I'm sure that you don't realize (which is ok) that Daniel Robinson is one of the premier yamadori collectors in the world and if he thinks the tree is ready for potting then its probably is. After 50 years of collecting trees I'm sure he has learned a thing or two .However you are correct, normally it would be advised for someone to let a tree like this grow for a few years before being put into a pot..... |
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27-Mar-2008
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#17 |
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Bonsai Evangelist
 
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Ponderosas collected appropriately tend to have very responsive root systems if placed in an appropriate growth medium. Working after a growing season, summer, fall and then winter, is generally quite acceptable on trees that have reasonable rootage at collection.
John
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"Wiring is simple; However, it is not easy to do it right" Boon |
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27-Mar-2008
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#18 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
Join Date: Apr-2007
Location: Martin
Country: Slovakia
Posts: 30
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Hi Victrina!
I make small virtual demo what u think about it? 
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Trought bonsai I could expres my love to nature.. my blog: www.milan-domeny.blogspot.com my webpage: www.fine.sk |
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27-Mar-2008
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#19 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
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1fine, this is one sweet 5 step program!
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28-Mar-2008
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#20 | |
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Bonsai mai-farli-bene
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Quote:
Pic number two, by my guess, is your front... cuz thats the pic that made me say "Ooooooooooooooooo yah."  I would take the story you were given as being legit, because this is exactly the kind of tree Daniel would collect, and he has sent many slices to the university to have the rings counted under microscopes. One thing I can also guess is that Daniel isn't the one who worked on the deadwood. It doesn't have his signature ancient look... it's too "solid" frankly. Though I was definently glad to see that it was given such a nice start to the work of giving it good deadwood. Though if there is natural deadwood on a tree that is visually interesting (really gnarly or delaminating) then he'll leave it well enough alone. Otherwise he'll augment it with more character and visual interest. I am going to print the tree out and show it to him though. I would almost bet money that not only will he remember when he collected it, but where, and who was with him at the time... even if it was 20 years ago and hundreds of trees in the past. He has the most incredible memory for trees.... now where he leaves his tools or cell phone... THAT is another matter entirely. Are those lower limbs in back being shaded out by the crown? That will definently make them weak. I wish you lived close, I would love to tackle that tree with you. Of course I am having to guess a bit about where the tree's branches are eminating and which directions they are heading. But for the main... the subordinate crown would be removed, with a decent stub left for carving (you can always make it a hollow later if you don't like it). The weaker branch would be moved around to the front to occupy the space along the "straight" looking portion of the trunk. And then the remaining crown would be adjusted to make it more balanced. Everything would be done in a way which would compliment the age of the tree... so the branches would be wired into undulating "gnarly" forms. If I get a chance in the next few days, I'll sketch up what I see in my mind. I think the tree will thank you for putting it into a bigger pot. If you want to know how Daniel treats repotting his pines, there is only one word.... minimally. He would take it out of the pot... use a root hook to scrape at the roots to loosen them and break the directon they are running, then he would settle it into it's next pot. He absolutly would NOT totally rake out the roots...ever. He plants them in a 50% composted fir bark, and 50% calidama. So your plan to up-pot the tree is sound. I do so hope you'll show me how this beauty progresses. Kindest regards, Victrinia |
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