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27-Oct-2003
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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
Join Date: Oct-2003
Posts: 67
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Chinese Elm Suggestions- request for virtuals
Hello,
I recently got this chinese elm which I would like to work on as a project and learning experience. It is currently in a bonsai pot, but I plan on putting it into a larger nursery container for further development. Suggestions as to the appropriate time of year to do this are welcomed (perhaps now?). As you will notice, the nebari are not very attractive (there are two large roots opposing eachother). Is it possible to do a partial layering, using sphagnum moss, on the other "rootless" areas? The number 1 branch is on the inside of the curve. In other words, this tree needs quite a bit of work. Basically, I am open to any and all suggestions. I have enjoyed looking at other trees on this forum and reading the intelligent and knowledgable suggestions from users. By the way, the tree is putting out new growth, as I am in zone 9b. Here are a few pictures:  Last edited by ddallier : 27-Oct-2003 at 08:28 PM. |
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27-Oct-2003
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#2 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
Join Date: Oct-2003
Posts: 67
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another view
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27-Oct-2003
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#3 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
Join Date: Oct-2003
Posts: 67
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another
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27-Oct-2003
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
Join Date: Oct-2003
Posts: 67
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the last side
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27-Oct-2003
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#5 |
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Tips:5¢ Advice:Free
 
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I think I would air layer it right through the middle to create two trees from this elm. The upper would be an informal upright, and the lower could be a start on a nice cascade or something else.
That pocket branch on the lower trunk would have to go in either case, unless you decide to use it as the base of the cascade, but I think I would use the larger portion of the trunk above it. There is a sample attached below. Another option would be to use the existing trunk as a bunjin style tree. Regards, Matt
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27-Oct-2003
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#6 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
Join Date: Oct-2003
Posts: 67
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thanks for the virtual, Matt. This is an interesting idea I had not considered (one of the great virues of this forum). What time of year would you recommend initiating the airlayer, considering my zone?
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27-Oct-2003
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#7 |
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Tips:5¢ Advice:Free
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Well, your zone doesn't say much about the duration of winter, only the average annual minimum temperature.
If it doesn't freeze, it should not matter a great deal when you do the layer. The time not to do it is just as the tree is leafing out because there is a big demand for water then and its reserves are low. So a feww weeks after the new foliage has hardened off is a great time. Sometimes sooner is more important than best! One thing to be sure of is to be absolutely certain to remove every trace of sapwood (phloem, cambium and active xylem) right down to bare WOOD which will not be white soft and pulpy, but will resemble real wood. Test a sample branch at least 3/8 to 1/2 inch across to see what the wood looks like. If you don't do this there is a very strong likelihood the layer will be unsuccessful and new bark will bridge the wound. Some people like to wrap a couple of fairly large diameter (3-4mm?) wires around the exposed wood right up next to the upper part of the layer. This helps with the tendency for the tree to heal over. Also be sure to remove a ring of bark that is at least as wide as the tree is thick at that point. This may seem extreme, but with a vigorous grower like elm it is not. Regards, Matt
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