chinese elm needs work

jstpierre

I just bought this chinese elm, and I think it needs some work but I don't know where to start. It has a 1.25" diameter trunk and is just under 8" tall. I don't know how old it is (question 1, I guess). As I have no yard, it will remain indoors this winter. Its starting to drop some leaves and simultaneously open new buds, which I have been told is normal for an indoor elm this time of year. (I live in Boston)

The first problem is that the small branches are growing every which way. I've pruned the worst offenders that were going straight up or crossing each other, but that's all I've done with the tree so far. How much more should I prune, and when?

The second, and larger, concern is that there are two main branches fighting to be the apex. This is most visible in the vertical shots. My gut says to remove one of them, but its a big step for a novice. The tree already has quite a few large scars that have yet to heal over, and this would add another very visible one. I can't even decide on the front, although I imagine it will be the side with the better root display (upper-left photo).

The last, and longest-term question is this: should I consider this tree to be at its relatively final size and shape as a small tree in the slanted style or start growing it back in the other direction to evenually be a much taller infomal upright? In the latter case, large pruning now will have plenty of time to heal over before the tree is "finished" and is less of a concern.

I've been studying this tree for hours, turning it this way and that, to no avail. All constructive comments/suggestions appreciated.

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bonsaial1

This is an awesome little elm. I will try a few virtuals and post them later. Regards, Bonsaial

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Jay

Nice tree.... are those wire marks on the lower trunk? If so, what do the experts who read this think is the best way to reduce this effect! Jay

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jstpierre

Its tough to say, even with the tree in front of me. My best (and rather poorly educated) guess is that you are referring to the exposed roots on the surface that look like they were grafted in place, but wrap around the base of the trunk rather than spread radially from it. With that much contact surface area, I'm sure a graft would have been easy, but not very aesthetically pleasing.

I would also like to know what the experts think can be done to "fix" the base of the trunk. This tree is challenging me, but I'm looking forward to it's coming-of-age with an optimism.

TreeBay

Ripsgreentree can probably confirm this, but the root system appears to me to have developed this way in response to growing in a nursery liner and then being transplanted on without much care given to the root system. So the roots tend to swirl and grow down.

Two ways of dealing with this are to treat it as a defect and correct it, or make it a focal point of the tree.

If you decide to live with it, the most detracting portion (that curving serpentine root that appears in the photo in the 10 o'clock position, could just be cut away.

If you would like to look into improving the root base, you could do something called a "ground layer" which amounts to an air layer right in the bonsai pot. It sounds drastic, but with a plant like elm, it is 99.9% effective.
[*]Chalk a line around the trunk where you would like to have roots develop[*]then using sharp knife make a cut around the circumference at that point all the way down to wood.[*]Make another cut a generous distance beneath this one. Typical distance would be 1/2 to 1 x the thickness of the wood. An inch or so would be good. Cut all the way down to the wood again.
[*]Now with a knibbler or pair of pliers, remove all the bark and cambium between these two points.[*]For best results, swab the area with a rooting hormone. For elm, it's practically unnecessary.[*]Place several wraps of large gauge wire immediately beneath the upper cutline and tighten with pliers to prevent the tree from trying to grow over the wound. We want it to issue roots.[*]Next step is to build up the side of the container so we can have enough soil to cover the wound. I use some drainage cloth a few inches high, form it into a fence and stake it with a few pieces of wire. So now, you have a little retaining wall.[*]Fill with bonsai planting soil to a point at least 1" above the cut area.[*]Now, the hard part - wait about six months and you will have a brand new, practically perfect radial root system. Try not to check more frequently than every 2 months.[*]Rotate the pot to keep the sun hitting it on all sides.

Check it in fall, for an elm you may be able to separate the layer at that time, but for best results wait 1 year. Many trees take 18 months to 2 years. Elm layers quickly. Wisteria makes elm look slow!

Check this site for some photos. Keep in mind that this technique shown here is an air layer, but it shows the basic process. It's a good article, but don't confuse superthrive with rooting hormone. They are different.

Regards,

Matt

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