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Old 22-May-2004   #1
dbz12fan
Charles Bevan
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Buttonwood

I made some changes on one of my buttonwoods this past week. Here is the before-
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Last edited by dbz12fan : 22-May-2004 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 22-May-2004   #2
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After some deliberation and help from Jim Smith and Jim VanLandingham, I decided to switch the front of the tree to the other side. While the old front had many good attributes, it was leaning away from the viewer. The wood beneath the pot would not allow me to lean it any more towards the viewer. Therefore, I made the other side as the front. Then, Jim VanLandingham and I thinned out the foliage and did some carving on the dead wood.

This is the final result-
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Old 23-May-2004   #3
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Hi DBZ,

Ok, I really like this new side of the tree.
2 things bother me ALOT though (sorry, I think you might agree)

1. You mentioned that you couldn't really move the wood around in the pot for the previous front view of the tree. I think the wood it too big, too long, and it's horinzontal, does nothing really to compliment the beautiful shape of the rest of the tree.
2. The actual "feature" is too far to the left of the pot. SO here's my suggestion.

I don't know how comfortable you are with this, but I thought I'd throw it out there. The dead wood could be made a lot more interesting. I think the deadwood can be carved to "accent" the feature branch. This virt is a little crude, but then again, it's Windows Paint, LOL. Seriously though, I reshaped the wood to kinda go with the flow of the growing branch, and the 2 carvings on the right, are both complimentary, and balancing.

Here's my virt, let me know what you think,
Dane
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Old 23-May-2004   #4
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Dane,
I appreciate your suggestions. I agree with you that the deadwood might be a little long. I do not, however, feel that removing the whole thing would be the best thing to do. I feel that removing all of it would cause a loss of flow in the tree. The deadwood adds a bit of a flow from right to left.

Thanks for your comments.
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Old 23-May-2004   #5
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Okie dokie,

I'm sorry if that came across as really extreme, I just like the tree alot.

Dane
p.s, DO let us know what you plan for it. I would like to see it's final styling.
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Old 23-May-2004   #6
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Charles....

There is something that just isnt right visually when I look at this. I know that there isnt much foliage at the moment, and perhaps when it fills in, it may help it.

Have you concidered standing the deadwood up in the pot? slanting may give it the visual balance I seem to not see at the moment.

I like Danes virtual btw....it does give it a lot more to look at.

Paul
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Old 23-May-2004   #7
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Paul,
Buttonwoods are not meant to be styled as traditional bonsai. Buttonwood is one of the hardest trees for many people, including myself, to style. The main rule is to follow a flow. This buttonwood follows a flow in a direction of right to left. If you look at the red line in this picture it shows the flow. Now, look at the yellow line. Imagine branches coming from those places. They would be completely out of sync with the rest of the tree. Usually, deadwood has already presented a flow. The live wood should try and follow it.

By the way, I recently learned that this tree was originally styled by Boon Manikivitivipart (sp?). This windswept style was his original plan for the tree.
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Old 23-May-2004   #8
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Forgot picture-
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Old 23-May-2004   #9
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Personally, I think our basoonist is on the right track. It can be like a windswept and have a flow to it without looking like a dachshound. The long flat deadwood part has no interest for me. I think any species of tree could be or could not be a traditional bonsai. Of course, your mileage may vary!

I changed the planting angle and added some foliage...
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Old 23-May-2004   #10
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Looking at Charles' picture (the one with the red and yellow lines), I start to get this feeling that the live roots may mostly, if not all, be at the end under the trunk.

If that's the case, this "dachshund" will never "stand".

We all have trees in various stages of training that appear to be horribly potted. This is usually because of the position of important roots, which force that position in the pot upon us.

Perhaps a thread on how do deal with this problem by developing new roots would be helpful. As for me, I just nip the overlong root at each repotting, which, in the case of these trees, is an annual affair, to improve the pot position a little each year.
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