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Brazillian Coral Tree (Erythrina crista-galli)

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Old 15-Dec-2004   #1
Skipsan
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Brazillian Coral Tree (Erythrina crista-galli)

I just brought this tree in for the winter, because it is a tropical and it was 20F last night. That's the low end of it's hardiness range. I bought it this summer in Houston, TX from a road side vendor. It's called a Brazillian Coral Tree (Erythrina crista-galli), or Fireman's cap. I've never heard of this variety being used as bonsai, but couldn't resist trying it when I saw the trunk. It has deeply fissured bark, and is about 4" wide at the trunk base, 24" to where the first shoot emerges from the trunk. Seems to need a repot this spring, so I've been trying to decide how the initial styling should go. I could just trunk chop about 2" above the first fork and try broom style, or remove one of the trunks to introduce some trunk movement and try for an informal upright. Not being familiar with this tree, I'm inclined to go for the latter. I know it grows kind of like a rose; 3' canes. It flowered this year. Any coments or thoughts on this one would be appreciated. I have 4 side views near and far of each. I hope they are good enough to see clearly.
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Old 15-Dec-2004   #2
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second side view
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Old 15-Dec-2004   #3
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third side view
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Old 15-Dec-2004   #4
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and the last side
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Old 19-Dec-2004   #5
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OK, I'll bite. No one even thinks it should be fire wood or yard art or given to the homeless. Is it that there is no one with experience with this variety, are the pictures bad, the path is too obvioius to be pointed out, what?
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Old 19-Dec-2004   #6
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once you've figured out how easily this species backbuds (I don't expect any problems) try cutting one arm off the slingshot (most likely the smaller of the two) then cut the remaining one back to a length of just a few inches. Seal the cuts. At the nex transplant, tilt it 10-15 degrees toward the side where the branch was removed.

That will provide a start at getting movement and taper into the trunk.

Regards,

Matt
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Old 19-Dec-2004   #7
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Thanks Matt,

I kind of felt that was the best way to go, just thought someone else might have a different point of view. Have you actually seen these as bonsai?

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Old 20-Dec-2004   #8
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i have a few of these, make sure the soil is really free draining, let it dry out between watering. they are a really hardy species.
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Old 20-Dec-2004   #9
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Spoonman,

Thanks for the response. Is there a chance you have any pictures of them? From what I saw this year; it should backbud OK like Matt said. Also, how do you deal with the canes. After it grows out from the chops this spring; probably at least 2 years, I was planning to prune them to the first or second bud to induce some ramification. Any experience with that? Some of the info I've been able to Google says the roots aren't very tolerant of beening pruned, whatever that means. I'm assuming that as long as it's treated like a tropical, it will behave like a tropical. Anything you know about this one will be appreciated.

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Old 20-Dec-2004   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skipsan
Some of the info I've been able to Google says the roots aren't very tolerant of beening pruned, whatever that means. I'm assuming that as long as it's treated like a tropical, it will behave like a tropical. Anything you know about this one will be appreciated.

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I have about 10 of them, grow from seed about 8 years ago. During these years I only worked on the trunk development, growing them a few years in the ground, then growing them in nursery pots for root ramification and then putting them back into the ground for more thickening. After a few trunk-chops they developed a pretty impressive taper and a thick corky bark at a young age.

In my experience they take almost any kind of rootpruning, and I had to prune really hard because of the long roots developing in the ground.
When young, these trees store a lot of water in their trunks, they lignify much slower than the other trees. In warm weather you can cut back any way you want, and they will develop new buds and branches very fast.

The significant drawback I noticed is that when winter comes here in California, the young, thin branches always die back all the way to last year's wood. May be because I keep them outside during the winter. So I have to avoid late pruning and let the branches mature before winter comes. May be, if I kept them indoors this wouldn't happen, but other than this nuissance, they are doing fine outdoors (this wouldn't apply to your climate though).

Another thing is that I am not sure that the leaves will reduce too much (it remains to be seen when planted into bonsai pots), so I am designing them as large bonsai (as so many other tropicals). The flowers aren't too small either, so there will be a scale problem if grown as small bonsai.

If you want large bonsai, you have to work on trunk development and taper first, before building the crown. You have to let them grow freely for a few years and then cut back drastically, then let them grow again.

I hope this helps.

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