|
|
|||||||
| Register | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Mark Forums Read |
| Forum | Gallery | Weather | Journals | Links | Webring | Wiki | NEW:Shop |
| Articles | Opinion | T.O.D. | NEW:Radio | Contests | Humor | NEW: Auctions! | Donate |
 |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes | ||
|
| ||||
31-Oct-2003
|
#1 |
|
bonsaiTALK Expert
Join Date: Apr-2003
Posts: 184
|
Another Collected Olive
Here is an olive I collected a few years ago. Little more than some maintainence pruning has been done. Any suggestions?
|
|
|
|
Sponsor Message
|
another collected olive |
|
Forum Sponsor
|
|
|
31-Oct-2003
|
#2 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Hi Hank,
I guess a windswepth is the obvious way to style this tree, but I think this is possible too. What do you think ? regards, René |
|
|
|
31-Oct-2003
|
#4 |
|
bonsaiTALK Artisan
|
As it stands, the two prongs above the main fork of the trunk are visually of equal weight and therefore compete for our attention. One or the other should be reduced or eliminated.
__________________
"... botanical plausibility" ~~riprap |
|
|
|
|
1-Nov-2003
|
#5 |
|
bonsaiTALK Craftsman
Join Date: Oct-2003
Posts: 67
|
virtual
|
|
|
|
|
4-Nov-2003
|
#6 |
|
bonsaiTALK Expert
Join Date: Apr-2003
Posts: 184
|
Thanks for the suggestions. Below is a a quick virtual of what I think should be done and can be accomplished in one or two growing seasons. The reason I prefer to have taller rather than a shorter trunk is because it is somewhat difficult to find mature wild olives with this much taper. Another reason for a large crown is that there seems to be a sub species here which has very small leaves (this is certainly a good example). With constant pruning they will reduce even more. (for this reason in my opinion they are far superior to commercially grown olives). A fuller crown compensates visually for the heavier lower branch. After a few years the foilage in the upper part of the tree can be reduced by removing some of the branches after they have thickened up. This unfortunately will take a bit of time.
A quick comment about the pot. Generally olives are not too difficult to collect and even older specimens (the above is probably 50-100 years old) root rather easily. However there are often problems if one tries to move them inro a shallow bonsai container after they begin to grow. I have had much more success in planting them in deeper bonsai containers for a few years before moving them into a shallower pot. It takes a bit longer but it seldom results in the loss of a tree. Hank Last edited by Hank Miller : 4-Nov-2003 at 03:04 AM. |
|
|
|
|
4-Nov-2003
|
#7 |
|
bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
 
|
Hank, great virtual and I would remove those little branches right at the bottam of the trunk.
__________________
Bonsai Northwest Inc, Melbourne, Australia Bonsai Flora Nursery in Yarraville, Melbourne |
|
|
|
|
4-Nov-2003
|
#8 |
|
bonsaiTALK Craftsman
|
I am not sure why but i really liek rene's virtual.
__________________
-nathan |
|
|
|
|
6-Nov-2003
|
#9 |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Hi hank,
I like your virtual but I think it looks better without the lower left hand branch. Somehow it is not in harmony with the rest of the tree, and it's probably to thick to bend. What do you think ? regards, René |
|
|
|
10-Nov-2003
|
#10 |
|
bonsaiTALK Expert
Join Date: Apr-2003
Posts: 184
|
Hi Rene
Thanks for the virtuals. I actually liked the first one you posted but for the reasons stated in my reply felt this olive should not be cut back. I also like the second but I think that the lower branches must thicken considerably to compensate for the heavy branch on the upper left hand side. (after looking at your second virtual I suppose this is the reason I chose to leave the lower branch). In any case it is certainly a good alternative. Thanks again for your time and efforts. By the way it is possible to bend large olive branches (or trunks) and the bottom branch can be bent. The way I ususally do this is to split the branch (or trunk) with a branch splitter. I usually split a bit below the place where the bend is to take place. The splitting causes thickeneing of the wounded area and this helps perserve taper. After splitting bind the branch (or trunk) together with raffia (or Chinese string). Place some thick wire along the branch (or trunk) and bind again with raffia. The reason I bind twice is the following - the first binding keeps the split branch (or trunk) from shearing during the bending and insures that the cambium grows together nicely. The outer binding simply keeps the wire in place. For an olive of this size at least 2 other people will be needed - one to hold the pot and another to hold the trunk. Everybody must understand how the tree is to be bent because it should not be re-bent in a different direction. Once the bend is accomplished it can be held in place with guy wires. They usually heal in a growing season or less. Hank |
|
|
|
|
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Cautions On Purchasing Collected Material | Ian Homer | Collector's Corner | 3 | 7-Jul-2004 12:08 AM |
| Have Olive Seedlings | BrianBay9 | Seeds & Seedling Exchanges | 0 | 23-Apr-2004 10:06 PM |
| Collected Wild Olive | Hank Miller | Show & Tell | 11 | 29-Jan-2004 12:36 AM |
| Restyling a Collected Wild Olive | Hank Miller | Show & Tell | 21 | 28-Oct-2003 09:24 PM |
| Black Olive: Leaf Problems | splat | Beginner Q&A | 3 | 23-Aug-2003 12:02 PM |
Linear Mode
