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Acer Palmatum "Deshojo" suggestions/comments

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Old 17-May-2005   #11
Aaron_K
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LOL poor Tucker!!

You need to get creative. Ask the seller to label the box "Car Parts" or something similar.. she'll never suspect

Carl, that article looks really good in issue number 39. I'm definately on the look out for it!

All the best,

Aaron
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Old 17-May-2005   #12
tuckerg
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you should off seen me try and sneak this in
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Old 19-May-2005   #13
ROBOKU
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Thats a prety awsome trunk
Very hard to find trees like that in australia

Cheers

Rob
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Old 5-Dec-2005   #14
Aaron_K
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Update

Hi all,

Just a quick update with some pictures of the maple now that it is out of leaf. I'm still not 100% on which side will be the front, but here they are anyway. Comments, suggestion and critiques all welcomed and appreciated.

All the best,

Aaron
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File Type: jpg front2.jpg (69.3 KB, 164 views)
File Type: jpg Above.jpg (71.5 KB, 59 views)
File Type: jpg rear.jpg (67.7 KB, 139 views)
File Type: jpg Rear-apex.jpg (69.7 KB, 88 views)
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Old 6-Dec-2005   #15
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Very nice find, Aaron...good luck with it and keep us in the loop.

Regards,
Tom Simonyi
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Old 6-Dec-2005   #16
rockm
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Looks like you have some bar branches. You should probably get rid of some of them, especially one near the apex. Leaving two parallel branches up there will create an ugly swelling.

There are some others further down, but it's hard to tell if it's the angle of the photo.
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Old 6-Dec-2005   #17
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What we wouldn't give, in Australia... quarantine laws mean that importing trees from Japan/China/elsewhere is impossible. Hell, Customs even killed 20 trees that were a gift from the Chinese government to the Australian people, in 1988, for our bicentenary.
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Old 6-Dec-2005   #18
John Dixon
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30817 seems to be the better front (due to the lean of the tree), although the base can be improved. I suspect you will have a decent nebari just under the soil that will need to be raised above the soil line. It flares nicely, but is sort of an oak buttress with no visible rootage. The exposed roots (meaning raised to soil level) will greatly increase the visual impact of the nebari.

I highly recommend you "flatten" the apex. It looks like it will be somewhat pointy and could benefit from some rounding off. Instead of having one leader going straight up as an apex, consider using two or more at slight angles away from one another. This flattens and broadens the crown...much more convincing on a maple. A couple of branches need to be removed as they look like "un-necessary bar branching". I say unnecessary because I am convinced that Walter Pall is correct in teaching bar branching is not a 100% no-no. Sometimes it is the best way, but on this specific tree there are plenty of branches available in good positions, so bar branching can be avoided. Whenever you decide on a front, I do believe you need to induce some budding on the back for future branches. It is a little lacking in that regard for now.

If you cut back too early in winter, you will likely experience some twig die back. In my area, I have come to expect die-back to at least two sets of buds on the twig when I trim back in early winter. When I wait until February, I usually have little or no die-back. This is in a cold frame with my area's climate. Don't be afraid to shorten branches considerably, since I feel that forking nearer the trunkline is much more visually pleasing than a long single branch.

A trick I have learned with palmatums is how to let the wire ever so slightly scar the branch. It's tricky and a risk, but a slight scar helps the (gray) bark to form, instead of that juvenile looking green color. Watch it very carefully if you attempt it. I do believe you need to wire the branching down a tad near the bottom and as you go up, make the middle branches close to horizontal, and the upper branching slightly upright. This translates to age definition in the tree and I think is especially convincing in bonsai. My deshojo respond wonderfully to summer defoliation. I would highly recommend that as well. Since you are not going to be attempting MAJOR changes on this material, this spring when the buds swell, I would at least lift it from the pot and check out the roots. Have another pot available if you wish to change it, and re-pot if it needs it. If not, just replace it in the pot and let it grow for another year. I do not think it needs a growing container. This material is ready for a finished pot and ramification work.

I'm sure you know a lot of that, but I thought I'd share it nonetheless. It looks like very good material with excellent possibilities. As far as age - although a complete guess - I suspect this material was grown in the ground to fatten the trunk like that. I would figure it to be roughly the same age as the other bonsai you mentioned, maybe even a little younger.

Good luck with it.

Warmest regards,

John
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Last edited by John Dixon : 6-Dec-2005 at 10:58 AM.
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Old 6-Dec-2005   #19
TimZ8
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Awesome tree! I would love to own a deshojo even half that size. Great find!
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Old 6-Dec-2005   #20
Aaron_K
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Thanks guys for the all comments and advice.

To be honest, I have done very little to this tree since I got it earlier on this year, other than pot it up into its current container, so it should be good for another year in there at least. I wired a couple of branches to introduce some shape, but as I wasn't 100% sure on which face was going to be the front, I decided to let it grow and hold off with the cutters till I had managed to get a good look at the thing in the nude.

John, You are correct about the lean in #30817. The tree does indeed bow slightly toward the viewer in that shot, which often is a consideration when choosing a front and a factor I had be thinking about. I am toying with the idea of using #30815 and altering the planting angle somewhat to acheive the lean on that side. The reason being is that the flare at the base of the trunk is far superior to that in #30817 which is why I am in 2 minds as to which side to be front.

As far as nebari go, I haven't seen any really. The trunk is like one big buttress as John describes, so I will have to go down at least another inch or two into the Akadama before I discover more.

I like the idea of having more than one leader John, as I would like to get away from the pine tree look. If you have the time, I would LOVE one of your famous virts cough hint cough.

Mr Dixon is again spot on with regard to the bark. The scaring/bruising of the young wood does indeed create grey bark. I observed this myself a few months back when I was applying some wire and damn near peeled the bark off to the heartwood lol. Acer P's definitely mark easily, especially on juvenile wood. Some see this as a drawback, but as you rightly say John, you can work this to your advantage and "age" young limbs within months, rather than wait years for it to develop naturally.

Thanks again for your comments and advice folks. I'll keep you posted on any developments.

All the best,

Aaron
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Vulpes pilum mutat, non mores!

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