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#1 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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Acer Palmatum
Hi,
I bought this Acer palmatum "Bloodgood" at a very decent price at the local garden center. Lots of branches had died, but there was lots of new growth so I figured it must be healthy. |
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#2 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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This spring I chopped it, removed all branches, and repotted. The roots are absolutely disgusting. It will take years to correct them. This is how it looks now. I have made a new leader selected some branches.
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#3 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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Detail of the chop area. Do you think this plant is worth the effort ? What would you do with it ?
regards, René |
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#4 |
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Tips:5˘ Advice:Free
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Well, Let me pull out my bonsai checklist here...
[ ] Interesting Movement? [ ] Taper? [ ] Aged bark? [ ] Interesting branching? [ ] attractive surface rootage? [ X ] good or unusual species / variety? Since it's a 1/6, I would say that it may not be worth your effort as bonsai, but could make an enjoyable container or patio tree. If you plant it out in the garden, the prognosis may change in a few years, but it is unlikely to change much in the confines of a pot. Regards, Matt
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#5 |
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Banned 08JUN2005
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Rene, it seems to me that any tree that attracts your attention is worth the effort. I think this tree is interesting, indeed. And, what I'm really interested in is how the charactaristics that Matt lists for us might be created in this particular tree.
I wonder if the first two don't require similar treatment, chopping somewhat lower and working with the new leader that emerges. Then, after the new leader has grown vigorously for a couple of feet, chopping again. Perhaps changing the attitude (angle to the ground) each time the trunk is chopped. My experience with fast growing specimens is that they can be chopped a couple of times during each growing season, allowing the trunk to add a couple or three inches each time. It appears to me that the lower trunk develops in an interesting way as a result. When the lower trunk has been developed for awhile, the leader can then be wired to provide movement in the upper trunk. I am doing this to some Hackberries and Hornbeams and I'm sure I can see the trunks developing. I am trying to develop the roots in a similar way, with repeated pruning of the roots to try to create a shallow root system which I increasingly expose at the surface. I think the roots react to repeated pruning in a way similar to branches, which will ramify over time. My reading indicates that branches are the last thing to worry about, but the quickest to respond to the usual techniques of pruning and wiring. I will worry about them when the time comes. Bark will, I think, take care of itself. It's like our human skin. Just try to stop it from looking old after a few years. Now, I doubt that I've said anything that you are not already well aware of. Don't mean to insult your intelligence. But from everything I've seen myself and read about in books, it is perfectly feasible to develop this tree into a credible bonsai. Just takes the desire to do it. As for the time, that's like worrying about whether a romance might take too long. The process is enjoyable........the longer, the better! Best regards, Fred |
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#6 |
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Tips:5˘ Advice:Free
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Rene-
I didn't catch this the first time I looked at the tree because of the shadow that appears to fall on the trunk, but is this a graft? Regards, Matt
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#7 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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Matt and Fred,
Thanks for the response. I bought this plant for the species and the good price. I know there aren't 20 curves in the trunk but I kind of like it the way it is now. There is some slight taper in the trunk altough the picture doesn't show it. I chopped the trunk just above where the taper stopped and later on at an angle just above where the highest bud appeared. There is a swelling in the bottom of the trunk but there's no sign of a graft. The soil reached up to that point when I bought it and it had made some roots at that level which accounts for the thickening. That's something I didn't notice when I bought it. The roots will need lots of work. Maybe I should graft some more roots. Don't know. Matts suggestion of putting it in the garden could be a good one but if I do it will be for the purpose of thickening the trunk and the new leader. Ah well, in the future I will check better before I buy.. regards, René |
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#8 |
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Tips:5˘ Advice:Free
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Hmmm. I think that may actually be a graft. Most bloodgoods are grafted. I guess you could tell by cleaning the trunk a little in that area, or wait to see if you get garden variety green maple suckering up from the roots.
I didn't do any exhaustive search, but here might be a thread or two of interest: http://www.bonsaisite.com/forumadv/messages/306.html You can see a bit of a graft at the base of the photo on this page: http://www.monrovia.com/PlantInf.ns...08?OpenDocument This page shows how the graft is accomplished: http://instruct1.cit.cornell.edu/co...rgr.sm.jpg.html Ideally for bonsai, the tree would be either taken as a cutting or air layered later. Some maple varieties are not strong on their own roots. Regards, Matt
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#9 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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Matt,
Thanks for your trouble finding the links for me. If it's really a graft then it is almost not visible. Maybe this plant is not so bad after all :-) . Since I don't have a digital camera I cannot post a picture of that area now. I'll check it again this evening. thanks again, René |
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#10 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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Matt,
I looked more closely and you're right. I saw some tiny lines on the trunk. It's a graft. Apart from the swelling it's hardly noticable. Maybe this acer is not so bad after all..... thanks, René |
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