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#41 | |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
Join Date: Mar-2008
Location: Melbourne
Country: Australia
Posts: 9
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#42 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
Join Date: Mar-2008
Location: Melbourne
Country: Australia
Posts: 9
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Thank you again for all the replies. Seems now I almost have to only refer to this thread for all the advice I need ;-)
I'll re-plant my "stick", once it goes dormant for winter, in a normal pot and bide my time. I've also since found a few other young trees (AKA weeds) of the same type throughout the garden, so will pot them all up for future learning. In the mean-time, more research and hunting for something better to learn on. Cheers, AJ |
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#43 |
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Bonsai Master, in my mind
Join Date: Feb-2005
Location: Back Home in Northern California
Country: USA
Posts: 1,635
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Aaron...
Better to repot in early spring...when the buds start swelling...before they start opening... In the mean time...hook up with a local, and join a club...your best sources for advice for your geographical area. Pat
__________________
BONSAI isn't about surviving in a storm, rather, how to dance in the rain. THE ONLY WAY: Always remember, and don't ever forget, that whatever you read here is not cast in concrete... the intent of any advice is to help. In no way should you feel that I’m saying that my way is the only way…heaven forbid! I've seen far too much of the "my way or the highway" attitude in bonsai as well as in other areas of life. Pat Patterson...Bonsai in the Greater Bay Area, Northern California
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#44 |
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bonsaiTALK Expert
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I do disagree with one thing in particular that has been said here.
Some have said to let your tree grow a few years, and only then start to rtrain it. I like to wire youong trees so they have some movement in the trunk. Sure, much of the trunk will be cut back later on, or not, depending on how thongs go. But having some movement will give you some idea of what it can become later on. I find it gives me something to focus on while letting them grow. Also, I have a surplus of trees fit for little but formal uprights all over the county. I could collect them for nothing but my laber (not a small thing). So I don't want to grow a lot more formal uprights. If formal uprights are your favorite, then no need to do any wiring until time to shape branches.
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Waltseed |
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#45 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
Join Date: Mar-2008
Location: Melbourne
Country: Australia
Posts: 9
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Pat,
Thanks will do so. I had already figured, being a fruit tree, it'd be handled (broadly speaking) as with any other deciduous (such as apple, pear, quince, etc) fruit tree in terms of pruning and planting times. Walt, Thanks. Might have to run out and get me some coper wire ;-) Its copper you use right? AJ |
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#46 |
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Bonsai Master, in my mind
Join Date: Feb-2005
Location: Back Home in Northern California
Country: USA
Posts: 1,635
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Copper is good...however, aluminum wire is a bit easier to learn with.
However, I've used both...and I have been using aluminum wire for thirtysomething years. It's easier on my arthritic fingers. Pat
__________________
BONSAI isn't about surviving in a storm, rather, how to dance in the rain. THE ONLY WAY: Always remember, and don't ever forget, that whatever you read here is not cast in concrete... the intent of any advice is to help. In no way should you feel that I’m saying that my way is the only way…heaven forbid! I've seen far too much of the "my way or the highway" attitude in bonsai as well as in other areas of life. Pat Patterson...Bonsai in the Greater Bay Area, Northern California
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