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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
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What would you do to this Maple?
Hello All!!
I am new to this fourm an the bonsai world, an was hoping you'd be willing to help me style my first "pre-bonsai" (jap maple "bloodgood"). here are they pictures Back? Front? Side I was also wondering if any of you have had luck keeping a maple indoors thanks for your help and comments |
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#2 |
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Secret Agent
Join Date: Nov-2004
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Country: U.S.
USDA Zone: 5/6
AHS Heat Zone: 4/5
Posts: 838
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maples cannot be kept successfully indoors.
__________________
Here's to a long life and a merry one, a quick death and an easy one, a pretty girl and an honest one, a cold beer and another one!
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#3 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
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Hi Nofx,
If it were me, I'd plant it in the ground or in a large growing container and leave it to grow wild for a few years to allow the trunk to thicken up more. As 007 said, maples are an outdoor tree, that need a good deal of light. However, Japanese maples are subject to leaf burning during summer months if in too strong a sun position. Placing the tree in a large container will enable you to position it during the summer months to a more shaded area of the garden, and also to sheltered areas during winter months. Japanese maples prefer a slightly acidic and well draining soil, not boggy compact soils, as the roots will eventually rot and the tree will die. Normal peat compost mixed with sand and grit will be fine, provided you sieve the individual components first. Removing the fine (dust) particles will ensure good aeration of the roots. Also, maples are a very thirsty tree. I have to water mine every 1 - 2 days, or as soon as the leaves start to go slightly limp. Maples form shallow root systems, and so pay attention to the tree during summer as they can dry out quite quickly. Best of luck and welcome to the forum Regards, Aaron |
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
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Thanks for the info, I've been thinking of thicking the truck. What size container do you think i should move it to? a two gallon? unfortunitly I'm unable to plant it in the ground for two resaon's i live in an apartment, and im afraid what the lawn guys would to and to im most likely moving back to ny with in the year..
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#5 |
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Secret Agent
Join Date: Nov-2004
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Country: U.S.
USDA Zone: 5/6
AHS Heat Zone: 4/5
Posts: 838
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You would want to stick it into a pot that is maybe 50% larger than the container its currently in. If you overpot by too much, you run a greater risk for root rot as the soil will stay wet for much longer.
__________________
Here's to a long life and a merry one, a quick death and an easy one, a pretty girl and an honest one, a cold beer and another one!
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#6 |
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YOU CAN NOT RUSH TIME
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If you can not get this tree into the ground, use a grow box. If that is not possible try a very large pot as shallow as possible. Use Bonsai soil in the pot and you can try putting a large tile directly under the tree to force the roots to grow outward.
Please fill in your 'User CP' so we have an idea where you are, just a pet project of mine....thanks Jay
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A Bonsai student living with his trees at N 44.37 W 77.49... Think before you act... then think again... no good comes from rushing |
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#7 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
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When I bought the maple I also bought a fairly large traning pot. Do you think this is large enought? its about 8 X 11 and 3 inchs deep
here it is : |
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#8 |
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It is my opinion that it is a little late to transplant this maple this year as the buds have opened and in fact the leaves are developed.
If it were my tree I would chop it drastically and wait until next year to transplant into a training pot. At that time you will need to do some root work and make sure the nebari has a good start, this may require some drastic work, work best done before the buds break, I do mine when the buds just begin to swell. One suggestion is outlined in the picture attached. You will have to cut this tree back sooner or later, might as well be sooner. You may want to try airlayering off the upper portion as this will give you another tree and also allow you to practice this technique as well. Disclaimer, techniques have worked for me with bloods in Michigan zone 5/6, may not apply to all situations, remove wrapper before cooking. Will Last edited by Will_Heath : 28-Mar-2005 at 02:47 PM. |
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#9 |
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Air Assault All The Way.
Join Date: Mar-2004
Location: Huntersville, NC (near Charlotte)
Country: USA
USDA Zone: 7-8
Posts: 1,702
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One thing to consider is that 'bloodgood' has a rather coarse twigging habit and ramification is not easy on smaller specimens. You would be wise to grow this tree into a large (over 30") size if you want decent ramification. It's just not as suitable as other cultivars. I'm not saying it can't happen, but by making the bonsai a larger size, you simplify the problem.
One big advantage of bloodgood is the quick rate of growth. Using growing containers, or preferably growing it in the ground, you will see significant growth and be able do large amounts of training simply by clip and grow. I have two in my front yard that grew from a .75" trunk to probably 3.5-4" in six years. Just a suggestion. John
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John Dixon Si vis pacem parabellum Stay off the trails of others, that's where the booby-traps are. |
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#10 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
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Will Health: What did you mean by new leaders? and chop here? i ask chop here only because it was at the base of the trunk
I appriceate all the information guy keep it coming ![]() |
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