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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
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Ulmus Parvifolia Question?
Hello everyone, somewhat new to this site, although I have been reading posts for awhile... seems like there is a considerable amount of expertise here...
So heres my question... I have heard that a Ulmus Parvifolia can be kept inside over the winter without losing it's leaves, is this the case, or has anyone had a different experience? I am hoping to extend the growing season on a couple of my plants this year, and I would like to know the particulars of doing so with the Chinese elm... |
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#2 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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Hi Jayde,
Yes, this can be done, but with caveats. No tree will thrive indoors, especially deciduous trees, and so your keeping it inside diminishes the wisdom and effectiveness of any traning you plan to do (pruning, wiring, etc..). This is especially true when you plan to keep it indoor during winter, when indoor heating dries out the air so severely. Also, "extending the growing season" brings with it very little value given the fact that the resulting following spring/summer growth will be diminished because of the stress of indoor winter location. If, as I assume, your desire to extend the growing season is to get more development this year, I point out that working against mother nature is not a good way to get more of her bounty. ;-) In the end what would seem, in theory, to be a benefit is really a detriment. Hope this helps. Kind regards, Andy Rutledge www.bonsai365.com/ zone 8, Texas |
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#3 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
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Thank you for the reply Mr. Rutledge,
My hope was that I could establish a better root system on these particular plants...But I understand what you are saying, and although it pains me, I wil leave them outside... Thanks again, Jayde |
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#4 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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My Pleasure, Jayde. By the way, my name is Andy. Mr. Rutledge is a bit formal and we don't stand or ceremony here. ;-) Soon you'll probably want to call me "hey, jerk!" and it's an easier leap from "Andy" than it is from, "Mr. Rutledge."
;-))) Don't worry about losing the development time over the winter. If you've not already discovered it, bonsai is not a hobby/endeavor/way-of-life for the impatient. Everything in bonsai is slow and it's just a reality we have to cozy up to. Enjoy the slow pace. ;-) What geographic location are you located in? Kind regards, Andy Rutledge www.bonsai365.com/ zone 8, Texas |
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#5 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
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Alright, Andy it is... I apologize for the formality...
I live in Central Minnesota... USDA zone 4.. I have discovered the importance of having patience, but I have also discovered that I don't have any... Just ask my kids... My main reason for asking this question is because I recently collected these specimens from an old rock pit ( yes, I had permission) and am worried that I may not have gotten enough of the root ball ( especially the feeder roots...) I'ts been a couple of weeks and they appear to be doing fine thus far... the were already losing leaves before I collected them, they are still some clinging on, so I was wondering if I left them inside with proper care, growth lights, etc, if I could jack up the roots a bit... |
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#6 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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Well, collecting in Minn. at this time of year is not a good idea. What you'll have to do is to keep these trees above freezing, but below 45F this winter. If they freeze, there's a good chance they die. They should not be kept warm like it is spring. If you have a greenhouse, you can keep them cold for a month or so and then let them warm up - but not indoors. The air indoors will be too dry and they'll just die. They'd need moist, warm air (after a month or so at below 45F).
This is likely a lesson learned. It will be hard to keep these guys alive, I suspect. That's the patience thing again. ;-)) Kind regards, Andy Rutledge www.bonsai365.com/ zone 8, Texas |
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#7 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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I'll bet given your location and the fact that you collected them that these are Siberian elm. The leaves are very simular to the Chinese elm but they are thinner and more pointed at the tips. These also shed their fruit in early spring, Chinese elm in the fall. Spring is the right time to collect especially in a cold climate like yours. The freeze can damage freshly cut roots much more than established roots. You don't want to keep these trees in a warm house for the winter either. That would be the kiss of death. It's too warm inside and probably too cold outside for the trees over winter.
I would wash all the field soil off the roots and pot them up in fast draining bonsai mix and put them in an attached garage for the winter. Try to keep them above freezing if possible, 35-40 degrees F. would be ideal. Water sparingly, they won't need much over the winter. Tony |
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#8 |
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Banned 08JUN2005
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I'm with Tony on this one; U. parvifolia sounds real unlikely where you are. These trees (Siberian Elm) naturalize wherever they are. We have alot of them growing wild in this area.
Assuming it's Siberian Elm, you have a very hardy tree that has a pretty good shot to make it through the Winter even with its roots frozen. S. Elm is, by the way, pretty controversial. I've seen a couple that I thought were pretty nice, but a number of comments that I've read in the past indicate that it is hard to work with, with major limbs dying suddenly with no apparent reason and lots of sprouting from the base. I've avoided it in favor of Winged Elm, which is also easily available in this area. Good luck with yours, Fred |
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#9 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
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Thanks for all of the information guys... It must be Siberian elm then, cause they do drop seed in early spring... I assume by keeping it at the above freezing below 40 degrees temp, is to keep the leaves dormant while the root system continues to grow. Which leads me to another question, how important is the humidity level if there are no leaves on the tree? I do happen to have a part of my house that is not really heated but because it is attached doesn't freeze either... radiant heat from the house keeps it warmer than the outside... And yes Andy, I may have to chock it up to a learning experience, but thats a good thing. I have already learned alot just from this post... so it wasn't a total loss if they happen to become firewood... I appreciate all of the information you guys have given... Thanks,
Jayde |
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#10 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Humidity isn't real important for dormant elms as long as they're not in direct wind. Not desert conditions either but somewhere around 30-40 % humidity should be ok.
Tony |
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