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Trunk Chopping A Trident, Japanese Maple And Liquid Ambar

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Old 28-Jan-2004   #1
Greggles
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Trunk Chopping A Trident, Jap Maple And Liquid Ambar

Ok...I have 3 maples stated above. I want to chop them up.

How..when...and procedures...does anyone have any good links or advice?
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Old 28-Jan-2004   #2
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jap maple
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Old 28-Jan-2004   #3
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la
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Old 29-Jan-2004   #4
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Old 29-Jan-2004   #5
Greggles
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ah..apologies to you...excuse my internet short hand...

Japanese Maple.
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Old 29-Jan-2004   #6
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Unless you are shooting for a tree 5" tall, these do not look ready to be chopped yet.

Bonsai-Al quick formula for trunk to height = height is 10 times the trunk girth. or... 2" trunk = 20" tall tree.

Litarati is about 30 times the trunk girth, or... 1" trunk would yeild a 30" tall bunjin tree.

These are just averages, and your tree may differ and look better with a smaller or larger trunk. That is what being an artist is all about. The main thing is that the first decisive chop must be made on the stock when it is the size of the tree you want. If you want a tree with a three inch trunk and about 30" tall, then you will be chopping a 15 or 20 foot tree aith a 10 foot canopy down to about 8" tall with a slanting cut. You should do this just as the buds break in spring and let it go for the entire year.

In the fall prune back to one leader and a few side branches. Let the leader grow as long as it can. When it achieves the same or near diameter as the base, ( adding taper) you will be making the next chop. continue on making succesive chops as the years go by.

The tree here was chopped at about 20 years of age. The next 5 chops were done over a period of about 6 years or so. Chop no. 3 was a sort of "V" chop done in between branches, saving both of them.

Hope this helps, Bonsai-al
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Last edited by bonsaial1 : 29-Jan-2004 at 02:09 AM.
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Old 29-Jan-2004   #7
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These were 5 tridents that are about 2" in diameter trunks.
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Old 29-Jan-2004   #8
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These trees were cut down to about 3" tall. I left a leader to make sure they come back in the spring. You can follow along next month and I will let you know how they respond this year.
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Last edited by bonsaial1 : 29-Jan-2004 at 02:18 AM.
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Old 29-Jan-2004   #9
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Wow, thanks! That's great info...ok...I'm actually aiming for what you call a shohin?? A small tree...so in effect...I'll be up to about chop 3 or 4 with these trees. So I chop them at the end of winter...and then wire it up..and let it grow big....then when it's achieved the taper I want..then I start thinking about growing side branches?
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Old 29-Jan-2004   #10
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Thanks for the image Bonsaial1, Looks awesome!

I am looking to develop some larger caliper trees, and now I am a little confused. If you look in some of the books (like Colin Lewis' book) you see he shows a smaller maple (maybe a 1/2" dia) that he plants slanted and chops to two branches (one to become the first branch, the other the new leader). He then says to continue this to get the trunk movement you want.

If you do this and keep the tree planted in a larger box, or in the ground, wouldn't this also get you the shape you want? I realize that it is probably slower as you are impeading the growth, but you would not have the BIG scar to heal over like you do with a 15' foot tree.

Also, how do you keep your 15' foot tree having branches down low enough to define the trunk movement?

Thanks
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