Trident Maple Suggestions

bisco_bonsai

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I'm still trying to decide how I'm going to solve this tree's problems, and I'll certainly take all your thoughts into consideration. Regarding the leader, I have chosen one that I'm going to let grow as tall as it wants to get some taper, and prune it back hard when I'm satisfied. I just have delayed pruning the other leaders until right before bud break in a month or so. I know it would seem to some that the primary branch can not be gradually bent down using leverage from the chopped, untapered tip, but I began bending it when I first bought it and it has come down quite a bit for such a large branch. So far the branch has remained healthy. If the branch starts to look unhealthy, I can always cut it off and start fresh. Keep 'em coming guys, and thanks.
All the best,
JDL

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rockm

"I know it would seem to some that the primary branch can not be gradually bent down using leverage from the chopped, untapered tip, but I began bending it when I first bought it and it has come down quite a bit for such a large branch. So far the branch has remained healthy. If the branch starts to look unhealthy, I can always cut it off and start fresh"

Didn't say it couldn't be done. I just said it wasn't worth the time and effort and the result wouldn't be very believeable. The tree can push a new branch out in the time it will take you to get this one into the position it needs to be in. Bottom line You're wasting time -and the tree's energy--with the existing branch.

bonsaikc

Rockm is right. The wood of maples is very hard and brittle when lignified. The best practice seems to be removing all large branches and using those that are small enough to be wired (i.e., this season's growth). Wire the new growth and let the wire cut in a bit (even halfway). Then remove the wire, cut back about to the first bend you added, and do it again. If the tree is healthy, you should do this several times a season to develop ramification.

Chris

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bisco_bonsai

Great suggestions, I have been contemplating just sawing that sucker off anyway and starting frest. I would like the primary branch to be a little higer, maybe a graft could be in its future. I'd rather have a well-ramified, believable bonsai that looks just as good in the winter as it does in the summer. Just to clarify, for ramification, when I trim back the new seasons growth after wiring to the "first bend," does this mean leaving a little "stump" of a brach with a few buds for backbudding to develop tertiary braches, and thus ramification? Have I got that right? I've read about leaving only two leaf pairs per year on new growth; I'm not sure if this is what you are referring to but it sounds like the same concept. Also, some of the "small" branches when wired left that unnatural, annoying little hump at the brach collar where it just looks like someone bent it down. By starting over and just using new growth, I think I can also eliminate this. Anyway, thanks again for all the suggestions guys.
All the best,
JDL

rockm

You're getting ahead of yourself. REmove the large branch completely. Wait for new shoots to extend. Let them grow for a few months, wire them in place, set some bends in them. Leave them alone for a couple of growing seasons to thicken. THEN prune them back to within an inch or so of the trunk. Repeat this process on extension growth, pruning back to within a inch or so of last season's growth. It is a build up of branching you're after.

"I've read about leaving only two leaf pairs per year on new growth; I'm not sure if this is what you are referring to but it sounds like the same concept"

This is not the same thing. This describes maintenance pruning on established branch structure. You don't have an established branch structure yet.

John Dixon

JDL,

This may come as a shock, but I suggest cutting off every branch except for a leader to become the new apex. The summer photo appears to be the front view, while the winter one looks like the back. I base this on the "chop" scar at the top. That should be on the back and NOT visible from the front. The trunk looks "muscular" and would benefit from an apex with some taper. A hard cut back on the leader and a couple of years growth should help that. The trunk will pop with many choices for branching if you cut them all off now. Tridents are noteworthy for that. Being you have it in a growing box, I would definitely go that route. You wisely see the benefit in having a few good trees versus a lot of mediocre ones. The primary branch, as is, is not in a favorable position and will be far thicker than the rest. It will be much more convincing with branching that is close in diameter, but thinner as you go up. If you cut back to the trunk, you have control over that. It takes time, but with time comes ramification.

I realize that what I'm recommending is drastic, and somewhat in conflict with what has been accomplished (backing-up if you will), but a much better result will be forthcoming.

I wish you good luck with it,

John

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bisco_bonsai

Okay, I get it now. Let the new braches grow and develop for size and shape and then cut back after a few years to begin developing branch taper and tertiary branches (sort of like a mini trunk chop, only using a branch instead of a tree). Thanks for the clarification.
All the best,
JDL

bisco_bonsai

Thanks John,
Greetings fellow North Carolinian. I'm leaning toward taking my lumps and just starting over with this one; I've got plenty of time and patience at this point. I do have one question for you though. When you said: "A hard cut back on the leader and a couple of years growth should help that," wouldn't letting the leader keep growing free until it thickended up begin to create the taper? I'm just not sure why I should cut it right now, when it is just a stick. Thanks for your help,
All the best,
JDL

John Dixon

JDL,

Hello to you, dare I say it, "tarheel". Wolfpack"er" okay?

What I meant about the leader was that although, yes, let it grow to add thickness, it will still need to be cut back several times for significant taper. Basically, one year's growth, then cut back and select a new leader. In another year repeat the process (but reverse the angle of the leader), By doing this, you create taper AND movement. Basically a cut and grow method, although wiring is still a consideration. One word of caution though: a rounded apex is more desirable on a trident that a "point". When the height of the tree nears its optimum, you should chose several angled branches to form the apex rather than just one pointed straight up. The rounded apex eludes to a more "aged" tree, and therefore a more dramatic bonsai.

Take care,

John

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John Dixon

Si vis pacem parabellum

Stay off the trails of others, that's where the booby-traps are.