Trident Maple Suggestions

bisco_bonsai

Hi,
I'm fairly new to this forum, but I would like to say that (from reading the old posts) the quality of advice given here has been quite impressive. Obviously, there are many experienced members of the bonsaitalk community. I have found this forum an invaluable tool in my bonsai experience and would like to thank all with whom I have corresponded for there advice, help, and encouragement. However, I realized today that I have yet to post a tree for the scrutiny and suggestions of you all. I decided to go ahead and post a trident maple that I bought last spring, and I humbly ask for your suggestions. First of all, I still consider myself a beginner, but one of the most important lessons I have learned from my mentors is that it is better to have a few quality trees to learn with than a bunch of sticks which will take fifty years to develop. I still enjoy growing trees from seed, but each year I save and buy at least one quality root stock to work on and develop over the years. I would recommend this to other beginners as well. With this in mind, I offer this trident maple that I have worked on for about a year. I bought this tree for its excellent nebari, good lower branches, and overall vigorous and healthy appearance; it stands about 20". I would like suggestions on a few concerns I have with it though. First, the lack of taper in the middle part of the trunk. Second, the large wound in the lower left corner of the trunk. Third, the primary branch. The primary branch is my main concern at this point because it lacks a nice taper. It does have some nice tertiary branches I could cut it back to, but I will not be able to lower the branch any more if cut off the end. Right now, I plan to continue gradually cranking down the branch until it levels off and then cut it back to a tertiary branch to fix the taper problems. The first picture is after its first trimming last spring and the second picture is a behind view in its winter home. Anyway, I look forward to your suggestions.
All the best,
JDL

Attached Images

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	s Snow Shots 12-26- 2004 002.jpg (39.8 KB, 166 views)

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Tobias

Hey JDL

Nice potential in that trident. I see what you mean about that first branch - definitely needs to come down a bit, doesn't it. What comes to mind for me is the technique of undercutting a branch. What I mean by this is cutting out a small wedge shape piece from the underside crotch of the branch, and then gently gently gently wiring the branch down. Removing the wedge of branch should help to allow you to come closer to being able to wire it so that it's horizontal.

Well, thats what came to mind for me. I'm curious to hear what others think. Good luck with this tree, and keep up posted - sounds like you've got the right idea here.

~Toby

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~Self-proclaimed dendrophile!

bisco_bonsai

Thanks for the suggestion. I would like to use this method but I believe that it is not recommended for maples. Refering to John Naka's book, he says that this method is only safe for pines, junipers, etc. Has anyone out there actually had sucess with this method on deciduous trees? If so, is it best to perform such an operation in early spring before bud break like other pruning chores?
Thanks.
JDL

Hinoki

I know Ficus Jerry has used this method successfully on his ficus.

malhomme

I tried the "wedge" method on a 1.25" trunk of a trident. Before I knew it I went from bending one tree to suddenly holding a tree in each hand!!! The break was dramatic and came without warning. I guess that's what I get for being over ambitious.

However, bending a branch (of the diameter in your photo) in this manner seems less risky... to me... than the above scenario. In any event, it's just a branch. One of the nice things about tridents is that they grow new branches almost overnight.

--malhomme

Hinoki

Here is the link I was referring to in my orioginal post. It is achieveable but like everything else must be done slowly and we must be patient.

Tobias

JDL

you're correct to point this out if naka only suggests using this technique on pines and junipers. as i never have seen this technique used on anything other than junipers, it was an unsupported assertion for me to suggest its use on a maple. i shouldn't be speaking so hastily to these things. i'd be curious to know if others have used this technique on a maple, or if it could be done.

thanks,

toby

__________________
~Self-proclaimed dendrophile!

Jay

Nice tree material. Read the following as if it comes from a fellow novice... because it does!

First have you thought of replacing the first branch? Possible a thread graft!

If not, I would ask questions before I undercut this branch to lower it...I think if my memories serves me correct, that a slit at the TOP of the branch to allow it to be lowered is prefered in maples....PLEASE check with a better authority.

Best of luck

Jay

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Think before you act... then think again... no good comes from rushing

otomix

wow! nice big trunk! i recently acquired a trident almost identical! just a little more taperd, but low and behold THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM!

now what im planning to do, get some knob cutters, rather than a drastic wedge, cut about 1/3 the way into where you want it bent (Have some strong ass hands or else youll have bruises! took off about 12 knobs off my trident upto 1" diameter ouch! )

then cut paste it, raffia it, and start applying constant pressure to it! whether its possible to use a clamp, or just heavy wire, and MANY MANY MANY anchor wires, once decidous trees hold in my experience, they are more likely to hold than conifers! as i said just in my opinion!

i think i might take my own advice and do this in a few months when my trident drops all its leaves and then document it!

well Bisco, hope that may be an insight.

my take on bonsai, do what works, works well, and looks good!!!

if that means straying from the DONE THING, than stray! invent the "BISCO" technique! god knows i think i have invented many techniques already! but they all seem to be working for what i want to achieve! best of luck mate

-Oto

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-RIP the master, MR J. Naka