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31-Jan-2004
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#1 |
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Plain old lil'tree novice
Join Date: Jan-2004
Location: East Bay Area, California
Country: U.S.A.
USDA Zone: 10a or 9b
Posts: 86
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Styles And Style Names (Juniperus Procumbens Question)
I'm currently working at trying to decide what style to shoot for for a Juniperus procumbens 'nana'.
Does the term Windswept Semi-cascade, or Windswept Slanted fit what you guys would call appropriate terminology? That seems to be what the tree "wants." It also appears to be the style that would require the least radical wiring to acheive. I see a potential to really make it look like it is trying to resist the force of the wind, but is yet losing the battle over the course of time. I guess I ought to post some pics of the tree when time allows. |
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Styles And Style Names (Juniperus Procumbens Question) |
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1-Feb-2004
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#2 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
 
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for me the 'basic styles' are for reference.. there are many variations which can be combinations of the basic 5. When I look at a plant I ask the question what is the tree within saying, what is its story..roots, trunkline(tapered),branching. I feel the need to relay this story more than applying a style to the composition. It seems that you have gotten to this point. A picture will be a good thing.
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peace, tom stoute http://bonsaiinsights.spaces.live.com/ |
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1-Feb-2004
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#3 |
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Plain old lil'tree novice
Join Date: Jan-2004
Location: East Bay Area, California
Country: U.S.A.
USDA Zone: 10a or 9b
Posts: 86
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A picture will be forthcoming within the next day or three, when time permits me to do a good job of it.
Thank you Tom. I look forward to your input.
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Steve, Inquisitive Newbie. Certified Bonehead Worm Herder |
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1-Feb-2004
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#4 |
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Tips:5˘ Advice:Free
 
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I think it is safe to say that all windwept bonsai are slanted trunks, but none are half or full cascades.
Looking forward to your photo, Matt
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2-Feb-2004
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#5 |
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Plain old lil'tree novice
Join Date: Jan-2004
Location: East Bay Area, California
Country: U.S.A.
USDA Zone: 10a or 9b
Posts: 86
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I dunno if the way I did this will help, or just be annoying, but I tried to help define the tree better than the pictures were able to show due to their 2 dimensional nature.
As I wrote before, I think this tree might make a convincing windswept design with some wiring over the course of time. The wind coming from what is the right in this picture. Ok. In this picture and the one below: “A” represents a branch that points forward, so I’ve been thinking of keeping it as an “escape branch” as Matt described in his lesson in order to contribute to the taper of the main trunk or leader that is represented as “B.” Since A is growing from such a visible location on the primary, I thought I would also wire it into a more interesting, less upright shape, and then use it as a short jin after about a year rather than have such a large scar in front of the tree. I am increasingly convinced that a little bit of jin often looks more convincing than a lot of jin, but it would be easy to make it look as if the branch succumbed to the force of the wind by bending it to the left at some point. The circle in “A” represents the foliage of the branch, which significantly blocks the view of the branch structure behind it. “B” approximates the line of the apical leader. “C” approximates the line of the lowest existing branch, which I am considering removing, or bending back to the left in keeping with the windswept design.
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Steve, Inquisitive Newbie. Certified Bonehead Worm Herder |
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2-Feb-2004
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#6 |
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Plain old lil'tree novice
Join Date: Jan-2004
Location: East Bay Area, California
Country: U.S.A.
USDA Zone: 10a or 9b
Posts: 86
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“D” approximates the line of the 3rd branch in the structure that was cut in the nursery. It could be cut back to a branch and saved, or removed. I think I will save one or more of the branches represented as C, D, or the branch in between the two. Unfortunately they all come off the same side of the trunk.
“E” represents two laterals which grow off the primary opposing each other they are near the same location of the primary, but not exactly so. I have already thinned about a third of the foliage from the inside of the tree and off the under side of the primary and branches. I thought I should let it recover before thinning the inside more and exposing the true structure of the primary and branches. (Not knowing how much the tree could handle in one shot) Also, since the tree is a bit leggy thanks to some secondary growth on the branches competing for dominance, I thought I would pinch some to thicken the growth later on, or cut the primary growth to add character and let the competing secondary have dominance. As you can see from the top view, the primary curves forward at one point, Which I thought I could cure with wiring if it is not in line with bonsai tradition, but I do like the character it adds to the shape. If I were to use what I have called the potential front, then that curve would be ok and I could wire the apex further toward the lower part of the picture to bring it more forward,(toward what is the bottom left of this top view.) I hope I haven’t over cluttered the picture with lines or written too much. I look forward to all criticisms and advice.
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Steve, Inquisitive Newbie. Certified Bonehead Worm Herder Last edited by Little Arborist : 2-Feb-2004 at 11:55 PM. |
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