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16-Mar-2005
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#1 |
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NCSU Horticulture
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Soil Stratification-applications to bonsai
It's been curious how many opionions there are on bonsai soil, but one area that I don't think has been explored is the notion of stratifying your soil. In many bonsai books, the correct way to repot is listed as first laying a base of gravel at the bottom, then a coarser of bonsai soil to mound the tree, then topping in off with a lighter blend for ornamentation and moss. But as I continue soil and soil properties, I'm curious if this is the best method. For instance, soil texture plays a huge roll in water movement throught the soil and plant available water. Every soil scientist I know agrees that the best draining soils are where you have a single texture all the way through the soil horizon. So why should bonsai soil be different? Doesn't putting gravel at the bottom of your pot reduce unsaturated flow through the soil because of the reduced attraction to water offered by the macropores in the gravel? Said a simpler way, wouldn't water be more attracted to the micropores of the soil (clay,turface,akadama,etc) above than to the macropores of the underlying material? I believe this might cause the same effect as laying gravel beneath a sidewalk or foundation to block the capillary action of the soil water. In a sense, by placing soil first in a bonsai pot, might we be only producing a micro perched water table for our tree to its detriment? I propose that a consistent column of soil thoughout the pot would be the best way, according to science, to maintain "field" capacity and plant available water for our bonsai. I'd love to hear some other thoughts on this topic.
All th best, JDL |
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Soil Stratification-applications to bonsai |
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16-Mar-2005
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#2 |
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Bonsai Otaku
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Jason,
I think that the modern thinking, and possibly science, is on your side here. Often, what seems most logical on the surface doesn't make so much sense when one explores further. Soil stratification is one area that probably fits into this definition. Thing is though; in practice, each methodology seems to work well enough. Many Japanese growers and practitioners graduate the size of soil particles and there are numerous texts, (as you point out), - including recent issues of BT and Bonsai Europe, that tell us that the corrrect (read traditional) way, is to use larger sizes of particles at the bottom and smaller particles towards the top of the container. These practices seem to work for them, however, personally, I have never used this methodology, but have always used the same size particles throughout. [Mainly because I am NOT buying different bags of differently sized Japanese soils, despite them being readily available here.] Conversley, a grower I know well who has been into bonsai for over 30 years does stratify his soils as that was the way that he was taught. Both ways seem to work well enough. In that case, why go to the trouble of soil stratification? Life is too short. Regards, Fish.
__________________
Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill. HEALTH WARNING: Engage brain fully, before typing into keyboard. "We are the average gamers and we'll kill you badly. There'll be no finesse. no fancy tricks, no inventive attacks, just 2 whole smg clips and a rain of 'nades." Last edited by Emperor Fish : 16-Mar-2005 at 01:58 PM. |
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16-Mar-2005
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#3 |
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BonsaiTalk Master B.S.er
 
Join Date: Jun-2002
Location: Richardson, Texas
Country: God Bless America
USDA Zone: 8
Posts: 1,282
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From Brent Walston's excellent Rules of Bonsai treatise:
1. Soils should be uniform, not layered. (New rule, you will still find controversy). Go here for the complete article: http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/rules.htm
__________________
Emerging from winter slumber Bonsai trees burst buds anew Spring is upon us! -Paul S. |
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16-Mar-2005
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK Craftsman
 Join Date: Mar-2005
Location: Knox County
Country: USA
Posts: 87
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Soil Stratification
Have attended three seminars given by the great Warren Hill. He maintains that the stratficiation method is the old way, and the new way is uniformity. This is supposed to give you less air pockets and uniform drainage of water from you container.
jg |
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16-Mar-2005
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#5 | |
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Quote:
Exactly. Now given the depth of the course material and the position of the roots on top of that, where exactly is the perched water at? Right where it does the tree the most good? In uniformed size mixes there is always a perched table at the bottom of the pot. Water gushes through and dries very quickly from the top down (in most cases) while the bottom of the pot remains wet. Using layers we move this perched water table up to root level and also at a level that is easy to check for moisture. Overwatering problems? No more than any other arrangement, you only water when the soil needs it. Just my thoughts, Will |
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16-Mar-2005
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#6 |
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Child of God
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Quick query
I must admit to some ignorance. God's lesson in humility for the day, I suppose. At any rate, to what are you gentlemen referring when you speak of a "perched", or better yet, "micro-perched", water table? Is it merely a way of describing at what level the water sits within the structure? Or is it something a wee bit fishier?
For what it's worth, I'd think that the simple fact that both stratified and homogeneous methods have many adherents and examples of success implies that either method, properly used, is more than satisfactory. Now how 'bout a discussion of pots: glazed, unglazed; Japanese vs. Chinese vs. Korean. Mica vs. clay. And why not plastic?
__________________
Do unto others as you would have others do unto you. |
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16-Mar-2005
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#7 |
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The Cat's Apprentice
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One thing I've never seen mentioned in these discussions is soil degradation.
Most of the "stratifyers" are using akadama, yes? Akadama breaks down over time, and so perhaps the larger particles at the bottom simply function to maintain better flow after degredation has begun. Or maybe I'm just talking out my drainage hole ... pootsie |
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16-Mar-2005
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#8 |
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faux master
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I have to say that i use a uniform mix, mainly out of laziness. Although i do put on a top boat of soil to make them look pretty
 . Beyond that, i have to agree with what has already been said, both methods work equally well.
__________________
We were all newbs at some point |
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16-Mar-2005
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#9 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
 
Join Date: Aug-2004
Location: Aberystwyth Uni
Country: Wales
USDA Zone: 8
AHS Heat Zone: 0-1
Posts: 1,100
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My initial thinking was the same as Will's.
If you have the water table at the bottom of the pot the majority of the water is going to escape rather quickly out through the drainage holes. Having a layer of coarse soil on the bottom would bring the water table away from the holes, increasing the water retention of your soil. It would also prevent water logging as gravity would pull away any excess water into the coarse layer where it can drain away. If you have finer soil throughout and the water table against the bottom of the pot the water has nowhere to go unless it is over a drainage hole. I put a layer of 5mm rounded gravel in the base of my pots, always have as it is what i had read in books. But i never put any thought as to why. Now i have, and i think that a drainage layer is quite sensible. Al
__________________
I can feel another "I wish that was my tree" moment coming on... Currently studying BSc Plant Biology at the Universty of Wales, Aberystwyth |
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16-Mar-2005
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#10 |
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bonsaiTALK Neophyte
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I have no proof, but just as a "thought experiment", I can imagine that even layered soil gets mixed somewhat during the process of repotting. (I use a chopstick with a circular motion to get the upper soil to sink into the large air pockets below and between the roots.) I think this probably blurs the boundary between where the smaller soil particles end and the big stuff begins. I suppose this would help tie the whole of the soil together and fight the perched water effect.
Another possibility; soil scientists think in big terms. Drainage on a large scale is a lot different from what happens in our little bonsai pots. Even if a perched layer exists in the boundary area inside a bonsai pot, perhaps it makes only a 1% difference. I'm always wary of scientific evidence applied to bonsai (even if it makes sense in the "real" world). I always doubt that bonsai fits in the parameters of whatever experiments have been done in the past. As an aside, I'm not all that careful to separate my soil into many sizes. Partly because I don't believe it will make a huge difference, and partly because it's too hard to find different sizes in the soil ingredients I use. (But I do use some of the larger pine bark particles as my drainage layer.) So my opinion is that I doubt soil layering is worse for the bonsai than using uniform particle sizes. Neither way is entirely right or wrong. (Which is best probably depends upon your watering habits and local environment too.) But for me and my habits, I see some benefit in using a larger drainage layer to fight the sogginess that must live at the bottom of a bonsai pot. (I just won't expend too much energy on separating my soil into various sizes. Too much trouble. No thanks!) |
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