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17-Jul-2005
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#11 |
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Registered FedEx Sender
 
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This two or three stage removal of undesirable soil is absolutely essential with with conifers, especially pines. Bare-rooting only half or a third of the root ball minimizes shock to the tree while achieving the desired outcome. The whole process need not take a decade, but it must not be done all at once if one wants trees to survive and thrive.
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Root Pruning How and Why |
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17-Jul-2005
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#12 |
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bonsaiTALK Expert
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Vance,
Your message box is too full to accept messages. |
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17-Jul-2005
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#13 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
 
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Very informative Vance.
Rich
__________________
When you stop looking, the more you will see |
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17-Jul-2005
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#14 | |
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bonsaiTALK Expert
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Quote:
I can't see under what circumstances you would need to water for the sake of the core. As I see it the core would always be the wettest part of the soil. The core will more than likely be composed of dense clay. It will have the least amount of feeder roots and no evaporation to speak of. It's just a trade-off. You have to water for the majority of the roots. No? |
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18-Jul-2005
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#15 | |
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Registered FedEx Sender
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Quote:
No. You have to water for the sake of the whole tree. A core of dense soil will promote root death and rot, rot spreads to healthier parts of the tree. Remove all the old soil within 2 or three repottings and you can build a fine network of feeder roots. A central core of harder soil makes a shallow root ball harder to produce, it all has to come out sooner or later. I don't understand the difference of opinion here. Are you saying, Aurelius, that you don't worry about the old soil? If so, you will never have really good bonsai. Proper root work is foundational to the art. |
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18-Jul-2005
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#16 |
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bonsaiTALK Artisan
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Vance,
I've seen the disscussions about your planters here before. My question is do they require any extra protection in the winter? Is it safe to heel them into a growing bed and mulch them? Or should they be kept in a cold frame off the ground? -Ethan |
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18-Jul-2005
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#17 |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
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Areulius: I agree, I probably should have said water for the sake of the new roots. That is the real problem of an uneven soil mix. The core stays wet to the point of rot and the attempts to water the new soil and new roots are thwarted. In and open container like I have described this does not happen. I think the capilary action of the water draining from the new mix tends to draw a good deal of moisture out of the core. Regardless of what happens and or why, I have never had a rot or watering problem with my training planter.
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18-Jul-2005
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#18 | |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
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Quote:
Areulius: I agree, I probably should have said water for the sake of the new roots. That is the real problem of an uneven soil mix. The core stays wet to the point of rot and the attempts to water the new soil and new roots are thwarted. In and open container like I have described this does not happen. I think the capilary action of the water draining from the new mix tends to draw a good deal of moisture out of the core. Regardless of what happens and or why, I have never had a rot or watering problem with my training planter. |
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18-Jul-2005
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#19 | |
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bonsaiTALK ArchMaster
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Hi Ethan: You do not want to burry them at all at any time, this defeats the concept of air and light pruning. I don't treat them any different in winter storage than any other of my trees but I do not grow many things that one might consider sensitive. I do keep a couple of Japanese Maples in the garage because they are considered difficult, ShiShi Gashira and Keyo Hime. If you feel better about it I have racked mulch around them, but there have been times that I did not and I saw no difference. |
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18-Jul-2005
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#20 |
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Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Feb-2005
Location: Carlsbad, California..coastal desert
Country: United States
USDA Zone: 11
Posts: 5,242
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Vance, what a great article! It is by reading articles by people with such experience that we can all come to a better understanding of how to work with our bonsai.
I still don't understand about the "seasons". To most newbies, we talk about four "seasons"... spring, summer, fall, winter. Do you mean seasons like these, so you wait through three of them (repot in early spring, so....wait through spring, summer, and fall...and then work on them again in winter?) Or do you mean repotting times (early spring, late fall). Can you please spell it out more simply for those of us who can't translate the calendar to "bonsai years" please?  Joanie |
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