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Really no solution to a problem base is there?

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Old 11-Feb-2006   #1
Kazoo
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Really no solution to a problem base is there?

I've tried a bunch of stuff over the years to try to get this elm to fill out the flat side of the base. If I lean the tree, the limbs look wrong. Building higher soil just encourages swampy bark.
Any other suggestions?
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Old 11-Feb-2006   #2
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Hi Kazoo,

What about thread grafting nebari using young cork bark elm seedlings? That way you can position the surface roots exactly where you want them, rather than ground layering, and hoping nebari will appear in the right place.

For anyone wondering about the technique, here is a link to Harry Harrington's site detail this and many other useful demonstrations.

Something to consider anyway.

All the best,

Aaron
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Old 11-Feb-2006   #3
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Would a section of cut off root from the tree itself be likely to "take" and form a new root at the flat part? Like if you drilled into (but not through) the flat spot and inserted a root section?
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Old 11-Feb-2006   #4
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I know this isn't going to be a terribly helpful comment but.... I like it just as it stands. I think it works. I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to have some nice nebari on the left. But it has character as it is, and is very visually pleasing for me in regards to the roughness of the bark and the spikey twigging in the crown. It shifts the visual weight on the tree just a bit, which I think makes it more interesting.

Good luck no matter what you do.

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Old 11-Feb-2006   #5
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Doing a ground layer is the surest way to develop a quality rootbase on an elm. You can probably separate an elm layer in one season.

Regards,

Matt
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Old 11-Feb-2006   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TreeBay
Doing a ground layer is the surest way to develop a quality rootbase on an elm. You can probably separate an elm layer in one season.

Regards,

Matt


That's good to hear Matt!! I have to layer 3 of mine this year to get some decent nebari going on them.

All the best,

Aaron
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Old 11-Feb-2006   #7
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Try re-rooting the tree higher in the pot.
Drill a series of small holes (as shown in yellow on picture below ) in the trunk and fill them with rooting hormone. Then using a well draining soil plant the tree deeper in the pot. In time new roots will grow where the rooting hormone was placed. The resulting new nebari won’t take years to grow. The original root system is intact so there is no danger to the tree.
It does work.
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Old 11-Feb-2006   #8
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Another alternative is to place the tree to the far left in the pot, place a rock there, or some grass etc. Naka describes this in one of the two books . . . can't recall which.

But I dig the tree exactly as it is now . . .
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Old 11-Feb-2006   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007
Another alternative is to place the tree to the far left in the pot, place a rock there, or some grass etc. Naka describes this in one of the two books . . . can't recall which.

But I dig the tree exactly as it is now . . .
I also think that he mentions something about having the mass of the foliage over the pot. ;o)
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Old 11-Feb-2006   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonMartin
Try re-rooting the tree higher in the pot.
Drill a series of small holes (as shown in yellow on picture below ) in the trunk and fill them with rooting hormone. Then using a well draining soil plant the tree deeper in the pot. In time new roots will grow where the rooting hormone was placed. The resulting new nebari won’t take years to grow. The original root system is intact so there is no danger to the tree.
It does work.

Ron I'm curious... how deep do you drill the small holes? just deep enough to penetrate through the bark to the wood?

You are certinally full of good tricks.

Yours as ever,
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