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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
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pine pruning black and white
So I followed your advice and cut everything off to start again.
I know it was meant as a joke, but heres the results some severe autumn pruning of pines, black and white. What do you think? Last edited by tinto : 3-May-2008 at 07:17 PM. |
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#2 |
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bonsaiTALK Artisan
Join Date: Mar-2007
Location: Melbourne
Country: Australia
Posts: 107
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Hey Tinto, looks to have a bit of potential there.
I'm sitting on a JBP Nishiki (not literally ok), of a similar size and with the same sort of chop in mind. I was planning on doing this in spring, so I'd be interested to hear the responses from the pine gurus. Particularly in regards to timing, amount of needles to leave and whether it sensible to repot/root prune at the same time. |
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#3 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
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nishiki
photos 1, 2 and 5 are the same Nishiki.
Dont try touching the roots till after the tree has gone dormant.They have just started domancy in Sydney, as they didnt bleed when cut. can repot from mid July.If you prune next spring the sap will be rising, tree will bleed this causes stress. I have a corky bark one but it needs another year before its ready The tree you have seems to have corky bark and all the branches to find a great liitle tree . did I see a Seiju elm you had performed a similar job on? This was looking good last time I looked. If this was yours you know what your doing. Post more photos if you want to discuss the tree further. If you want details, back view, etc just ask I am really thrilled with the white pine, the photo doesnt do it justice. I will post some better photos tomorow. It is really impressive. Tinto Last edited by tinto : 4-May-2008 at 08:20 AM. |
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK Journeyman
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shohin white pine was 3 feet tall, now 6 inches. back and front view hope this helps
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#5 |
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Professional Amateur
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Hi,
So you cut a Japanese White Pine from 36" to 6" in one shot? John
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"Wiring is simple; However, it is not easy to do it right" Boon |
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#6 |
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CATAMENIA
Join Date: Dec-2006
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Country: US
Posts: 32
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I'm unable to judge depth, but here would be my take. The red cuts would be my first, then a year later I would do the green cut. The blue line suggests my "would-be" planting angle.
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#7 |
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CATAMENIA
Join Date: Dec-2006
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Country: US
Posts: 32
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(I forgot to say that I would not touch the root ball while the tree is recovering from the cuts.) Also, I made similar (red) cuts on a like-sized JBP during the summer once (without touching the roots), and it was dead by winter. I think my mistake was to leave it exposed to the Bakersfield sun...
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#8 |
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bend me twist me
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watch that jwp good chance ya gonna lose it. i hope not cause it looks great but the queen only likes small trunk chops over a few years. good luck.
good job on the black too
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Antonio . . . ------------------------------------ |
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#9 |
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bonsaiTALK Artisan
Join Date: Mar-2007
Location: Melbourne
Country: Australia
Posts: 107
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Just to clarify one of the questions then;
Is late Autumn a good time to chop a JBP? |
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#10 |
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bend me twist me
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gav i think now in melb is the best time. sap is slowing down and our winters here have lots of sunshine to start the calluse's. with jbp's i dont use cut paste, i tend to wait a week or so, then the sap that accumilates on the wound, i clean up with a spatula and press and spread back over the wound. 2 years on a nicely formed callous is rolling in. i do make a point of making the wound face as much sun as location permits.
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Antonio . . . ------------------------------------ Last edited by anttal63 : 5-May-2008 at 08:06 AM. |
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