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#1 |
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Bonsai Barry
Join Date: Dec-2004
Location: Santa Maria, CA
Country: USA
USDA Zone: 9
AHS Heat Zone: 3,4
Posts: 1,118
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Olive Problem
This olive tree has leaves that have been curling inward during the last couple of weeks. It was trunk chopped late this winter. It has well draining soil and is watered moderately. It gets full sun all day except for midday when it is protected.
Any ideas or solutions?
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Bonsai Barry "Our talent lies in our choices." Last edited by Bonsai Barry : 20-May-2006 at 12:45 AM. |
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#3 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
Join Date: Apr-2006
Location: Z5b
Posts: 432
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Have you checked for spider mites? When trees are grown in dry conditions, which a lot of olives otherwise thrive in, you will risk spider mites who love the atmosphere, and humidity needs to be really laid on to discourage them. Look for tiny webs in the leaf axils and tiny spots on leaf backs.
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#4 |
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GREEN HORN
Join Date: Jan-2005
Location: Danielsville GA (Near Athens)
Country: U.S.
USDA Zone: 7b
Posts: 1,692
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I've always heard to let Olea dry a bit before watering, not bone dry, but dry on the surface of the soil,...looks like this one might need a little fert, if wasn't repotted recently, that is.
__________________
"Although profoundly "inconsequential," the Zen experience has consequences in the sense that it may be applied in any direction, to any conceivable human activity, and that wherever it is so applied it lends an unmistakable quality to the work." ~ Alan Watts (1915-1973)
http://www.bonsaiswap.com/ |
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#5 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
Join Date: Dec-2004
Location: Southern Caleefornia
Posts: 348
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From the pictures I dont think the tree is in distress. Olives can be slow to rebud, they dont come back out like a elm or something.
Also they tend to lose old leaves at this time of the year, It may be a natural dropping of old leaves. Be patient, olives are long projects. Also they dont need any shade-- full sun especially in Santa Maria ! Rock on |
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#6 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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It looks like over watering, as a/m let the upper layer of the soil, about 1cm to dry between watering.
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Shalom (Peace), Moshe. Colors are an optic illusion of light – As viewers for the bonsai creation. M.S.C. |
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#7 |
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bonsaitalk ninja
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I would also like to know what this means. These are some pics that i just took of my olive which is having the same problem
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#8 |
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bonsaiTALK Master
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leaf curling in plants
Leaf curling is a natural phenomenom in many plants to prevent excess transpiration from the leaf surfaces when there is a lack of water transport to the leaves.
In the olive tree, when the leaves tend to curl, as it is in your case, it is generally because the leaves are unable to obtain all the water it needs. This can be a temporary situation as when there is excess water in the soil, or any other conditions that prevent the sap to circulate normally in the xylem vessels to the leaves, like root rot, Verticillium wilt, girdling of the trunc etc.... Here is a link that describes a problem a bit similar to yours : http://answers.google.com/answers/threadview?id=162898 |
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#9 |
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GREEN HORN
Join Date: Jan-2005
Location: Danielsville GA (Near Athens)
Country: U.S.
USDA Zone: 7b
Posts: 1,692
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Emo, what's up with that sig line man?!?
__________________
"Although profoundly "inconsequential," the Zen experience has consequences in the sense that it may be applied in any direction, to any conceivable human activity, and that wherever it is so applied it lends an unmistakable quality to the work." ~ Alan Watts (1915-1973)
http://www.bonsaiswap.com/ |
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#10 |
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Bonsai Barry
Join Date: Dec-2004
Location: Santa Maria, CA
Country: USA
USDA Zone: 9
AHS Heat Zone: 3,4
Posts: 1,118
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Several BT members mentioned they were having this problem so I thought I'd share some information I found:
Verticillium wilt is a fungal disease that enters the plant through its roots. It is not limited to olive trees and can attack a number of different plants and trees. Treesforyou.org has this information on the disease: ?Verticillium wilt fungus is a sneaky disease, entering a plant through the roots in the soil. Infections are not obvious like some other diseases, such as powdery mildew or sycamore blight. Symptoms can be acute... with leaf curling and drying, abnormal red and yellow coloring of the leaves, partial defoliation, wilting and dieback of branches. This wilting and dieback will typically develop on one main branch, a sector of the crown, or an entire side of the tree. Chronic symptoms are stunted growth, yellowish leaves, crispy brown edges on the leaves, slow and stunted growth, heavy seed crops, and branch dieback.? http://www.treesforyou.org/Planting/TreeCare/Healthy/vertwilt.htm According to GardenSouthwest.com: ?Signs of verticillium wilt include new leaves rolling inwards and losing their deep-green, waxy luster and becoming dull gray and brown. Leaf-drop and twig die-back may follow, depending on the severity of the infection. Tree death rarely occurs, rather portions of the tree will die and then new growth may develop from dead areas. The only way to control this disease it to plant resistant varieties of olive such as Oblonga.? http://www.gardensouthwest.com/forums/GardenSouthwest/posts/10.html If you suspect that your olive tree may be suffering from this disease,the best thing is to get a professional to take a look at it. I realise that your olive tree is in a pot, but this fungus can survive in soil for 14 years (at least), so it may be worth checking out. Verticillium wilt is a fungal disease that enters the plant through its roots. It is not limited to olive trees and can attack a number of different plants and trees. Treesforyou.org has this information on the disease: ?Verticillium wilt fungus is a sneaky disease, entering a plant through the roots in the soil. Infections are not obvious like some other diseases, such as powdery mildew or sycamore blight. Symptoms can be acute... with leaf curling and drying, abnormal red and yellow coloring of the leaves, partial defoliation, wilting and dieback of branches. This wilting and dieback will typically develop on one main branch, a sector of the crown, or an entire side of the tree. Chronic symptoms are stunted growth, yellowish leaves, crispy brown edges on the leaves, slow and stunted growth, heavy seed crops, and branch dieback.? http://www.treesforyou.org/Planting/TreeCare/Healthy/vertwilt.htm According to GardenSouthwest.com: ?Signs of verticillium wilt include new leaves rolling inwards and losing their deep-green, waxy luster and becoming dull gray and brown. Leaf-drop and twig die-back may follow, depending on the severity of the infection. Tree death rarely occurs, rather portions of the tree will die and then new growth may develop from dead areas. The only way to control this disease it to plant resistant varieties of olive such as Oblonga.? http://www.gardensouthwest.com/forums/GardenSouthwest/posts/10.html If you suspect that your olive tree may be suffering from this disease,the best thing is to get a professional to take a look at it. I realise that your olive tree is in a pot, but this fungus can survive in soil for 14 years (at least), so it may be worth checking out. Verticillium wilt is a fungal disease that enters the plant through its roots. It is not limited to olive trees and can attack a number of different plants and trees. Treesforyou.org has this information on the disease: ?Verticillium wilt fungus is a sneaky disease, entering a plant through the roots in the soil. Infections are not obvious like some other diseases, such as powdery mildew or sycamore blight. Symptoms can be acute... with leaf curling and drying, abnormal red and yellow coloring of the leaves, partial defoliation, wilting and dieback of branches. This wilting and dieback will typically develop on one main branch, a sector of the crown, or an entire side of the tree. Chronic symptoms are stunted growth, yellowish leaves, crispy brown edges on the leaves, slow and stunted growth, heavy seed crops, and branch dieback.? http://www.treesforyou.org/Planting/TreeCare/Healthy/vertwilt.htm According to GardenSouthwest.com: ?Signs of verticillium wilt include new leaves rolling inwards and losing their deep-green, waxy luster and becoming dull gray and brown. Leaf-drop and twig die-back may follow, depending on the severity of the infection. Tree death rarely occurs, rather portions of the tree will die and then new growth may develop from dead areas. The only way to control this disease it to plant resistant varieties of olive such as Oblonga.? http://www.gardensouthwest.com/forums/GardenSouthwest/posts/10.html If you suspect that your olive tree may be suffering from this disease,the best thing is to get a professional to take a look at it. I realise that your olive tree is in a pot, but this fungus can survive in soil for 14 years (at least), so it may be worth checking out. This info came from "Google answers"
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Bonsai Barry "Our talent lies in our choices." |
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