Old wood back budding on Spruce

Will_Heath

Al,

Please read the posts.

Vance gave this it's first twists and turns, my virt was a possible future I see in it, but I'll let Vance run his course, he's the master.

By the way, I didn't shape it into a "C" it's a virtual.

Thanks for your opinion,


Will

Advertisement

bonsaial1

Thanks Will I have read the post. I do not see the reason to add this to every reply in your threads.

yes, I do know you created a semi-quasi virtual.

You have been asked by some to present "your" vision of the tree. You have replyed to my questions that you are letting Vance style this tree for you.

So is it safe to say that this will be a tree owned by Will, styled by Vance, that you intend to change later?

From what I see, there are two very distinct forms between what Vance has done and what your perception of this material is. I see this as one of the hurdles of visiting masters to clubs and such. With in a time frame of ten years, a sensai will have the whole clubs trees looking like clones of his work.

Is Vance so stubborn that he will not help you towards your goal, or has Vance seen the material better suited towards a more appropriate upright form? The hangup here seems to be the "C" shaped tree. Whats the deal with that?

__________________
If you can't be a player...be an athletic supporter!

Will_Heath

Hardly.

It is no more than what it was presented as, no need to look further or try to uncover what is not covered. I have stated a couple times that Vance will have free rein. I posted what I see as a possible future, who knows what Vance sees. Again I will say, I will defer to Vance, he is the master and of course, it his his advice I will follow. Next year, he'll have at it again.

As I stated in a previous thread, I was at a loss for direction with this tree. Vance was kind enough to offer his time and vast experience on it. I hope to learn from the experience.

That being said, I see no need to explain this or any other aspect of my bonsai, learning, styling, teacher choice, or personal decisions to you. Doing so leads nowhere and helps nothing. You seem to be digging for something that just ain't there and you also seem to always be looking for a negative, listing perceived problems but never offering viable solutions.

Thanks for your opinion,


Will

Walter_Pall

Here a Europan spruce, also called Norway spruce, Picea abies. I have acquired this tree last year and it was a bit weak.
Lots of water, well draining soil, full sun, aggressive feeding with high nitrogene contents had this result only one year later. Now this is a tree that is more than 150 years old.

Attached Images

	DSC_0417(1)v.jpg (67.2 KB, 54 views)
	DSC_0416(1)v.jpg (67.8 KB, 53 views)

__________________
best regards
Walter Pall

CD now available online
http://walter-pall.de/cdavailable2.jpg.dir/index.html
http://walter-pall.de
http://walter-pall-bonsai.blogspot.com/

Will_Heath

Walter,

That is some impressive back budding, not to mention excellent photography.

Do you mind if I ask what time of year you begin nitrogen feeding and at what time of the year do you cut back? And lastly, any tips on those darn Picea abies branches and their tendency to resist wiring?


Will

Walter_Pall

'Do you mind if I ask what time of year you begin nitrogen feeding and at what time of the year do you cut back? And lastly, any tips on those darn Picea abies branches and their tendency to resist wiring?'

Will,

I believe in ALWAYS using nitrogen full speed. Read Brent Walston's articles. I use feed that I buy in the agricultural center or liquid feed for gardeneing.
10:10:10 or 4:3:3 or even 20:10:10, sometimes more nitrogen even, when I use guano or other organic fees. True, trees only need nitrogen when they are activly growing. But then the suprfluous nitrogen is just washed out of teh very well draining substrate. I use feed that is meant for crop, like corn or potatoes.
This is possible ONLY with very well draining substrate, full sun and very frequent watering, like evry day, and a real lot of water every time all over teh tree so that it is dripping wet.

Spruce need wiring for ten to twenty years. Yes, I said twenty years. I have a few that long and third or fifth witing is applied. They do not resist wiring. It is easy to wire them and to bend the branches, they just resist to accept the new form. But when you suceed finally you can have some of the best bonsai. There is a reason why very good spruce are so expensive in Japan.

__________________
best regards
Walter Pall

CD now available online
http://walter-pall.de/cdavailable2.jpg.dir/index.html
http://walter-pall.de
http://walter-pall-bonsai.blogspot.com/