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Old 5-Oct-2003   #31
dbz12fan
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You must understand that I live in florida so I can do things twice as fast due to the two growing seasons. I can work this tree as hard is I did because it is a hardy tropical. I would never do anything potentially harmful to my trees without consulting my teacher. He said that it was about time to select branches. I decided that I would like to do this tree completely by myself so I did not select the branches with Jim. This doesn't really affect the value of the tree because I have done branch selecting on enough f. salicifoli to know what I am doing.

Am I in a deep hurry to get this somewhere, no I am not. They do grow quickly so I just keep up with there growth speed. My bonsai can be quite a time consuming process because they grow out so quickly I have to contstantly trim them to keep them into shape. During the growing season I cut my tropicals once very two to three weeks.

I am not sure what you mean when you say that this is a virtual of my previos picture, but I cleaned out quite a bit of the roots that were crossing over. There are still a few left, but they were to fused to get.

I have been talked out of using the middle trunks the apex by members of IBC forum and I will probably use the largest one next to it as the apex. The far left trunk will be lower than it is now, but I left it long without noticing it until I saw the picture.
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Old 5-Oct-2003   #32
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I forgot to add. Ficus salicifoli flourish in small pots and trays of this sort are used as training pots all the time.
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Old 6-Oct-2003   #33
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I know that you live in Florida. I know a few growers in the Orlando area that have Ficus s. It seems to me that they do things differently than you have. I have three Ficus s. that I am growing and do all my training in nursury containers. My growing seasons are short, and winters are long. The winter growth is good but slow.

(edited comments) Thanks Ent for your observation.

Not knocking the pot. Just wondering. Others would have done it differently, including myself. Like I said before I have mine in nursery cans for the training. Most ficus will grow in any pot if they are taken care of, this goes without saying.

Good luck.

Paul
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Old 6-Oct-2003   #34
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paul, i am 100% positive that the picture posted is indeed a different picture, not a virtual. note the slightly different background angles.
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Old 6-Oct-2003   #35
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I just followed Jim Smith's way of doing things by planting it it that tray. If I bring my digital camera next time that I am there I will show you that he has many of his plants in trays like that.
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Old 6-Oct-2003   #36
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Quote:
Originally posted by dbz12fan
Here it is after I selected the main branches. I cut them back to about 1/2 an inch each to start ramifying the branches, so they are tough to see.

The center tree will be the tallest tree, but its apex is a little less developed than the one to the right of it.

I also cleaned out all of the crossing roots.

What do you all think?
Here's what I think...

"why hasn't it been cut hard back into old wood?"

The reason I am wondering that for is taper. Only one trunk looks to have any taper, and that is only in the top half.

I would have expected you to cut the trunks all back to about 1.5 times their diameter, as a start to the conventional taper inducing process. With the trunks the way they are, to get taper you would need to grow them out to approx 3 times their current length. somehow I don't think that is your desired size/height.

Of course, if you are just cutting back in gentle stages then that is OK. But even then, you have made it quite clear how fast these grow in your climate...

Also, you could be planning to cover the trunks with dense foliage, which is again OK. But even then, you have made it quite clear how fast these grow in your climate...

Just some thoughts from a fig novice...

Regards,

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Old 6-Oct-2003   #37
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I am not sure how much more taper I could get into this tree with the exception of the top which still can be done. I know that I will be covering the trunks with a dense foliage head and the lack of taper wont be noticed.
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Old 6-Oct-2003   #38
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TB, here is a picture of a ficus salicifolia or my teachers that has zero taper yet looks pleasing because the flaws are covered with foliage. The price on this tree is infact 10,000 dollars.

http://jimsmithbonsai.com/Plant%20I...REE%20TRUNK.htm
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Old 6-Oct-2003   #39
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I figured there would be a photo of a teacher's tree that would have no taper and still look good. That's cool. Just trying to offer different suggestions.

It seems to me that with your tree, you have the perfect opportunity to not only have a nice root structure, but to have a nicely shaped trunks as well. What with how fast things grow where you are, I would take a total guess and say you could regrow all the trunks inside 5 years, so they have good taper and nice foliage like Mr. Smith's tree. Just think, then yours would be worth 20 thou.

Just thoughts.

Regards,

TB
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Old 6-Oct-2003   #40
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Hey Charles .. I think I see what Treebeard was talking about as to the trunks and taper .. they are kinda tall .. at their present height the canopy will apex inches above current chops. I circled the trunk on the right .. this is a desired taper except lower on the trunk. Using Jim Smith’s tree as a guide the ratio between the trunk girth and the height brings his clump to be shorter than yours. It is mainly noticeable in the middle tree..
Very tall .. the dark blue marks are new chop marks to help correct the height tingy .. the lighter blue would be the general finished? heights. Good job cleaning up the roots. In the future you may want to saw them closer to the trunks as indicated by the pink line. Jim’s tree has been growing for many years hence the thickened roots coming off the trunks .. they do this in time.
It is these heightened roots which set the middle trunk even higher ..
.. just some grist for the mill..
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