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#11 | |
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Always learning
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Quote:
[1] Should the thorns not be removed for personal aestetic tastes? Or is there something more to it? [2]I read that this can be avoided by always leaving some foliage (even if "some" is only one leaf) on the tree when trying to get it to back bud. In your experience, have you found this to be true? [3] Since this statement confirms some of what I have read previously: how do you suggest I go about reducing the rootball, from the deep garden center container, so that it can accomodate a bonsai pot? Nigel, thankyou for your input it is much appreciated!
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"If God meant for us to run around naked, we would have been born that way!" ----a Quote from my uncle's fridge |
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#12 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
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Howdy Bone-sigh,
Shall answer your questions overnight, cooking dinner here right now. Nigel
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http://pictures.bonsaitalk.com/user/ozzerbon http://www.flickr.com/photos/ozzerbon/ |
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#13 |
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Always learning
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That's right! I forget sometimes that this thingy we call internet is world wide!
I'm just now getting my day started! I love this planet...Thanks ozzy
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"If God meant for us to run around naked, we would have been born that way!" ----a Quote from my uncle's fridge |
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#14 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
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Hi Bone-sigh,
Here's two pics from one year ago, hope I've got the sizes right. Nigel
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http://pictures.bonsaitalk.com/user/ozzerbon http://www.flickr.com/photos/ozzerbon/ |
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#15 | |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Quote:
Yes you can , mine's in training. I dont know its age, but its 15 cm tall and about 20 cm wide at the top. Í own it now for 9 months, its standing inside my house on a South-East window. It had 2 times 1 flower in these 9 months, but not yet any fruit. I'm trying to let it look like the trees you often see on the South African plains. (see virtual)Hope you like it? Wessel * my avatar is the tree in a earlier stage, before repotting. |
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#16 |
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fugu...mmmm
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weeijk and ozzer,
thanks for posting the pics. i really appreciate it and am really interested in this plant. a couple things though: 1) how big are the leaves? they seem pretty good sized, but it could be because of the angle of the pics, size of the specimen, leaf shape, etc... 2) what kind of climate is best for these trees? 3) do they have other common names like "suriname cherry" or anything else? thanks again, and good looking trees so far. best, jeff |
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#17 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
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Those questions too I shall answer later, but here is something that I collected, from I don't know where:
Carissa - Natal plum General information: An evergreen, small thorny bush which develops white and pink flowers and edible, dark red fruit. There is little on this plant in the bonsai literature, which is surprising, as it is readily available and becoming quite popular. In addition, Natal plum is a strong plant which tolerates almost any abuse. It can be grown under almost any conditions (except freezing cold), but when grown under optimum conditions of high heat and humidity, growth is extremely rapid and the rooting of cuttings an almost sure success. Lighting: Likes plenty of light, at least four hours of direct sunlight daily. Temperature: Needs warmth in winter. Prefers night temperatures between 50-65F and day temperatures of 68F or higher. Can successfully be grown indoors, but the use of a nearby fan to reduce the liklihood of fungal infestation is recommended. Watering: Moderate. When grown indoors, use of a moisture tray to maintain humidity is recommended. Feeding: Every two weeks during growth, using Miracid. Reduce feeding to monthly during winter. Pruning and wiring: Do major pruning in mid to late spring, after flowering. Do not prune all the green foliage off a branch, as this will cause the branch to die back. Otherwise, buds back with vigor. Continue to prune as necessary during growth. Carissa grows rapidly, especially in hot climates, so pruning may be frequent. These trees make good informal uprights or cascades. Older branches can be brittle, so use caution when wiring. Check wiring often, due to the rapid growth of the plant. Propagation: Roots readily from cuttings, especially lignified ones. Will root when placed in a glass of water. Repotting: Lesniewicz recommends transplanting in fall or winter only, but posters to RAB indicated that repotting in mid-spring to midsummer is OK. Keep root pruning to a minimum. Use fast draining soil. Limit water until the plant is firmly established to reduce risk of root rot. Pests and diseases: Prone to fungal infestation. Spider mites and scale are occasional problems. On the whole, a very strong plant. Some species suitable for bonsai: Carissa grandiflora: Natal plum. Carissa macrocarpa: Natal plum, Christ's thorn. All best....Nigel
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http://pictures.bonsaitalk.com/user/ozzerbon http://www.flickr.com/photos/ozzerbon/ |
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#18 |
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Old Mister Crow
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The above is from the BCI species guide: http://www.bonsai-bci.com/species/carissa.html
Please, folks, provide your sources. The person/organization who put this together invested a lot of time and energy, and deserves credit for their efforts. If you don't know the sources, it's as easy as searching on google... Best regards, Carl |
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#19 |
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bonsaiTALK Master Chief
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Hello Carl,
Yes of course you are absolutely correct, but as I said I could not remember from where, and good luck and best wishes to those folk of the IBC, those notes are first rate and very useful, but I have them located in an enormous file with a whole host of other writings, so eventually [at 71] one is apt to forget. Regards....Nigel
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http://pictures.bonsaitalk.com/user/ozzerbon http://www.flickr.com/photos/ozzerbon/ |
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#20 | |
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bonsaiTALK Master Craftsman
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Quote:
Hi Carl, This link doesn't seem to work, atleast not on my computer. Maybe the site is shutdown at the moment? Found roughly the same story on this site: http://www.pfmbonsai.com/docs/Speci.../Natal_Plum.pdf I found something else here on bonsaitalk about Carissa, a very nice one: http://forum.bonsaitalk.com/showthread.php?t=10515 For anyone interested in Carissa, look on google with the words "carissa bonsai" You'll get 625 hits!!! cheers Wessel |
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