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#1 |
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bonsaiTALK pooPsie
Join Date: Dec-2004
Location: Orange County (in CA)
Country: USA
USDA Zone: 10
AHS Heat Zone: 5-6
Posts: 26
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My J.Maple keeps putting out new leaves
Hi Everyone. I'm new here, and I introduced myself in the picture posting thread but then it got deleted and I think Matt is going to restore it. So I won't do it again here... Anywho...
My Japanese maple keeps putting out new leaves. I live in So. Cal so it's pretty warm here still (right now it's almost 70 degrees F), although at night it gets to be about 50. At first I thought this wouldn't be cold enough for the tree, but I asked a local bonsai nursery if it was okay to grow them outside or if I had to stick it in the fridge or something and they said it's ok to leave them out. But the leaves just keep coming! And, I've also let the top leaves get burned without really caring too much for them because I thought they would fall off soon anyway. So now most of the leaves look burned or dried out on the edges. I would just like to know if anyone has experience growing them in a similar climate and what your trees are doing right now. Here's a picture of some of the new leaves and a picture also of all the old dried/burned looking ones. Oh, and the tree looks all tall and long right now because I kind of just got it. I want to air layer the top sections off but I'm going to wait until spring (is that the right time?) |
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#2 |
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Min,
I live in zone 6, Michigan so I have no experience with your climate. My Japanese maples have just lost their leaves a couple weeks ago. I would suggest you just let nature take her time, do not pull off any leaves, the trees still have them for a reason. (careful with the burns) Good luck and welcome to the forum. Will Heath |
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#3 |
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Carrier of Bonsai Fever
Join Date: Oct-2001
Location: So-Cal, US of A
Country: America The Beautiful
USDA Zone: Zone 9-10
Posts: 1,833
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Min the master,
Don't worry be happy... Good advice from young Wiiiam above. We have had a different climate this year. Super hot, Then rain, rain, super cold nights warm days. The trees are very confused.But worry not for the soon coming sprig shall fix all that ails. PS. You might take this upcoming potting season to up grade your soil mix and root arrange your acers. Good growth to you!
__________________
Keep growing,---'Nut Lethal Use of Farce |
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#4 |
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bonsaiTALK pooPsie
Join Date: Dec-2004
Location: Orange County (in CA)
Country: USA
USDA Zone: 10
AHS Heat Zone: 5-6
Posts: 26
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Ohh! Someone from so cal! yay. Okay, I'll stop worrying about my little tree's leaves.
On your comment about the soil, I would VERY much like to change the soil. Right now it's full of little creepy crawly things, which although it may or may not harm the tree, gross me out to NO END. I know the topic of soil mixes is pretty "controversial." But what soil do you use? (Since you are near me.) And I think the roots on the tree are really ugly too. It was buried WAY (like almost 3 inches) higher up so I didn't get to see it. Is there a way I could work with the existing roots or is an air layering necessary? |
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#5 |
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bonsaiTALK Expert
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How were you fertilizing?
Overfertilizing can make leaves look burnt. Later, with cooler weather, and diluting rains could leave you with an overactive plant. Just a thought. |
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#6 |
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bonsaiTALK pooPsie
Join Date: Dec-2004
Location: Orange County (in CA)
Country: USA
USDA Zone: 10
AHS Heat Zone: 5-6
Posts: 26
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I've had the tree for about a month and a half now. And I didn't fertilize it at all. I thought it would go dormant soon after I bought it so I figured it was best not to? Do I need to fertilize it as aften as recommended even if its still in its nursery pot?
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#7 |
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bonsaiTALK Expert
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You figuired right.
Can't advise you on the second question because I don't know what the nursery was using. I think it's safe to assume that overfertilizing isn't your problem though. Most nurseries use a time/temperature/pressure release fertilizer in their soil. They look like blue/green/yellow uniform balls peppered through-out the soil. As for the airlayer, wait until the first new growth has hardened off. Early in the spring the flow of energy is flowing upward. Making cuts will just bleed and possibly kill the plant. Later the flow is going circular. As the flow goes back down the trunk it hits the bark ring that you made. With no-where to travel downward anymore it kind of decides to make roots. |
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#8 |
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Banned
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I Don't know anything about S. Cal. weather. Folks down in S. Fla. zone 10. Can't seem to keep Jap. Maples alive over a couple of years,because they don't have enough winter cold to put the plant into dormancey. In N. Fla. I put potted maples in a shady spot and mulch around the pots , trying to keep the roots as evenly cool as possible. Otherwise after their fall leaf drop they will bud out, every warm spell ,then the next freeze kills the tender leaves. Commercial nurseries can't bother ( they lose trees though ) . trees in the ground seem to have no problem. Anyway putting your potted tree in the cool shade sure won't hurt it , and may help it. I would not defoliate it at this time of year. Try to keep it a little dryer in the winter,it won't bud out as fast. Wellcome to Japanese Maples
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#9 |
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bonsaiTALK pooPsie
Join Date: Dec-2004
Location: Orange County (in CA)
Country: USA
USDA Zone: 10
AHS Heat Zone: 5-6
Posts: 26
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Okay, yay, the leaves are dropping now, one by one. Thanks guys for reassurring me meanwhile.
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#10 |
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Greybeard
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You can speed the plant into dormancy by placing it in the middle of the lawn. The space around it will ensure it gets the chilly air it needs. Keeping it next to a fence or tree, house or anything that retains heat, or inhibits normal air circulation, will help to keep the plant in leaf. Up in Fresno, I need to move my maples out to the lawn to get enough cold air to induce fall color in the leaves. If the leaves turn colors, it is cold enough for the plant to rest.
Hope this helps, Al
__________________
Real men don't wear coats with "happi" in the title. Last edited by bonsaial1 : 15-Dec-2004 at 12:11 AM. |
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