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Mugo Victim #2

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Old 29-Aug-2005   #1
bwaynef
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Mugo Victim #2

I've attached photos of a recent mugo 1st-style and repot. I apologize for no befores and no durings. It was 1-gallon nursery material. It looks to be about 2-3 years old.

I cut the bottom half of the roots (and possibly part of the trunk). Then I decided to work only half of the rootball (while teasing loose the other half.) The roots were a tangled mess and I saw that they had wrapped around in a previous container as described in a recent repotting thread. This was textbook. I cut a pie-shaped wedge out of those roots and trimmed any remaining thick roots. I dusted with rooting hormone, then began teasing free some of the roots on the other side. I'd say it has about 30% of the original roots, maybe a little more. Lots of good fine feeder roots though.

I kept a few too many branches as I TEND to do. I have wired every branch, and most of the secondary branches I plan to use ...or at least keep until I get branches closer in. I did some wiring I thought I'd seen in Naka's Techs I, but after careful perusal of the literature I did what was illustrated as "What not to do." Oh well.

I'm skeptical about its survival because of my past experiences with mugo (1 dead) and because of the amount of roots I removed. I plan not to touch it other than water and fertilizer until next fall. I'm tempted to try some organic/slow release fertilizer (cakes) on this one (and a JBP I'm holding off on working.)

Sorry about the visibility of the trunkline (and lack thereof.) I planted it a bit lower in the pot than would have been ideal. Any hints, tips, forecasts, or guesses about the survivability of this pine would be appreciated.

Wayne F.
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Last edited by bwaynef : 30-Aug-2005 at 09:05 AM. Reason: Correction regarding wiring
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Old 30-Aug-2005   #2
Vance Wood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwaynef
I've attached photos of a recent mugo 1st-style and repot. I apologize for no befores and no durings. It was 1-gallon nursery material. It looks to be about 2-3 years old.

I cut the bottom half of the roots (and possibly part of the trunk). Then I decided to work only half of the rootball (while teasing loose the other half.) The roots were a tangled mess and I saw that they had wrapped around in a previous container as described in a recent repotting thread. This was textbook. I cut a pie-shaped wedge out of those roots and trimmed any remaining thick roots. I dusted with rooting hormone, then began teasing free some of the roots on the other side. I'd say it has about 30% of the original roots, maybe a little more. Lots of good fine feeder roots though.

I kept a few too many branches as I TEND to do. I have wired every branch, and most of the secondary branches I plan to use ...or at least keep until I get branches closer in. I did some wiring I thought I'd seen in Naka's Techs I, but after careful perusal of the literature I did what was illustrated as "What not to do." Oh well.

I'm skeptical about its survival because of my past experiences with mugo (1 dead) and because of the amount of roots I removed. I plan not to touch it other than water and fertilizer until next fall. I'm tempted to try some organic/slow release fertilizer (cakes) on this one (and a JBP I'm holding off on working.)

Sorry about the visibility of the trunkline (and lack thereof.) I planted it a bit lower in the pot than would have been ideal. Any hints, tips, forecasts, or guesses about the survivability of this pine would be appreciated.

Wayne F.

It would be my guess from what you described you did that you might lose this tree. However you mention that you read my articles on root pruning? I am left with one question if that is so, why did you do it the way you did it as opposed to the method I presented?

I have had a couple of comments on my articles to the effect: "Why take so long to get this done?" Refering to the replacing of the old soil and the old root system. My answer to this question is the difference between the quick and the dead. Anybody can do it quick and hope to luck, or you can take a little time and have a living tree to work on instead of a dead stick.

I see that you planted the tree in a pond basket, that's good but according to your post you bassically removed two-thirds of the old soil. If you re-examine my two articles I taught that you make the initial cut of the root ball, as you did, and wait till the next repotting before cutting out an additional 50% and working into the inside of the old soil mass.

From what I understand of what you did, you did both process at the same time. You may get lucky as you said there were a lot of feeder roots, but if you lose the tree just remember Pines are not Ficus and you have to at least be marginally cautious when removing massive amounts of roots.

I hope you don't think I am getting on your case, but I keep hearing people tell me that they can't keep a Mugo alive, I keep telling them they can if they do things the right way.
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Last edited by Vance Wood : 30-Aug-2005 at 09:37 PM.
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Old 31-Aug-2005   #3
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Well Vance I hoped you'd chime in. I'll also admit that I hoped you'd bear happier news. Thanks for shooting straight with me though. After your comment I had to go back and re-read both of your root pruning threads (the whole threads, not just the article you wrote.)

Somehow I missed the (arguably what you were saying was most important) part about potting it up to sit for 3 years after sawing it in half (or 2/3s). I don't know if I just forgot or if I didn't bother to really read it close enough. It was my intent to follow your advice though...(read the ref to Naka above, you're in good company.)

I want to adjust my estimation of percentage of roots left upwards though. I don't think I cut nearly 1/2 of the roots off the bottom. It looks closer to 1/4. (I have the "ring" sitting in the lawn still.) I'm happy that I at least got the screen-sided container right.

I publicly acknowledge that my luck with pines (particularly mugo) is a result of my poor care. I'll give this the best aftercare I can and hope that it doesn't lament too much this fall. (As an aside, if this tree is going to die, do you think it'd be obvious in the next month, or might I still lose it next summer?)


humbly,

WF
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Old 31-Aug-2005   #4
Vance Wood
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Keep a real close watch on it, over-watering should'nt be a problem considering what it is planted in but be carefull anyway. Water when it starts to dry out. Don't fertilize for at least two weeks and then only half strength and low nitrogen like a vegetable fertilizer. Withing two weeks you should start seeing new buds form. Don't expect these to open and extend into candels, these are for next year. You may be alright considering the pond basket. It is in some respects like my training planter and will encourage the development of fine roots.

As to the three years, that is of course a guide line and is not necessarily graven in stone, sometimes two is adequate enough.

Good luck and keep me posted.

PS, you know the pond basket is not to be burried in the ground, air pruning for fine roots only works if the tree is kept above the ground as though in an ordinary pot.
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