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Leaf Reduction on Gardenias

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Old 12-Aug-2002   #1
RynBkr2002
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Leaf Reduction on Gardenias

As Gardenia have most of the same type of requirements as an azalea, do you use the same type of leaf reduction for Gardenias? Do you cut 2/3's of each leaf off, leaving the remaining 1/3? I have heard several different people using several different methods in reducing leaf size, but not specifically for Gardenias. Does anybody have any insight on this? Thanks again!!
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Old 12-Aug-2002   #2
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Re: Leaf Reduction on Gardenias

Quote:
Originally posted by RynBkr2002
As Gardenia have most of the same type of requirements as an azalea, do you use the same type of leaf reduction for Gardenias? Do you cut 2/3's of each leaf off, leaving the remaining 1/3?


Who recommends this method for Azalea? Who complains about the size of Azalea leaves

Color me confused.

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Matt
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Old 12-Aug-2002   #3
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Azalea

Well, some time ago I was at Harold Sasaki's several nurseries at his Wheatridge, Co. home. There were also several other individuals there at the time, because it was a monthly workshop that the Rocky Mountain Bonsai Society holds. I had just purchased my first Azalea. It was a graden variety, I am unsure of the name, as I have since had it stolen. There was a gentleman, named Jeff, (can't recall his last name) who told me among other things that I needed to reduce the leaf size in order to obtain a true bonsai. He told me to cut the leaves, leaving 1/3 of the original leaf left. He said that when the leaf came off, either by me plucking it off, or by falling off, the new leaves would inherently be smaller. He also told me that method also works for other flowering trees; such as Gardenias, Jasmine, and the like. Now that I have several Gardenias, I would like to make sure I do this right, obviously. So I'm trying to get as much assistance on them as I can...
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Old 12-Aug-2002   #4
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Ryn,
Usually broad leaved evergreens that have been in bonsai training and cultivation for several years will acheive a smaller leaf. The cutting of existing leaves for The varietes you named is very unusual. This is not to say that it wouldnt work, you should test it on some inexpensive plants first ,I would think.
If you do go ahead keep us informed as to your progress.
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Old 12-Aug-2002   #5
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Bonsainut,
Well, since I was able to snag a couple of Gardenias from my wife prior to her planting them on the garden, I will make notes on what exactly I do. I have six Gardenias, and so I will make the cuts on three of them, and not on the other three. I'm also experimenting with soil mixtures. So far the one that seems to be doing the best is:
2 parts Orchid Bark
1/2 part Bone Meal
1/2 part Vermiculite
1/2 part Perlite
1 part sphag moss &
1 part Sifted River Sand
That mixture actually seems to be doing awesome on one of my trees. I just haven't started the leaf reduction on any of them, I also do have another question however. Since I am using Miracid on all of my trees, how often do I use this?? Also, I have fish emulsion fertilizer, which I am using on several of my trees. The ones I am currently using it on are doing better than with the ones I am not. I am using it once a week at full strength. Do I use the Miracid just as often, or less than that?? All of my Gardenias are about to bloom, so I'd like to make sure I get it right. If I lose some trees that's alright, as I'd like to take the notes for the future.
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Old 13-Aug-2002   #6
Tony
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That's alot of bone meal in your mix, about 10% it sounds like. I normally wouldn't recomend that, but you say it's growing well so it might be ok. I doubt that they will need any more nitrogen untill the bone meal has been absorbed.

Tony
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Old 13-Aug-2002   #7
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Is the one with 10% bonemeal the best performer because the rest have more bonemeal?

Hmmm.

Matt
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Old 13-Aug-2002   #8
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Treebay,
Well since I posted the original Gardenia thread, I only had two trees. Since then I acquired several more and have used different mixtures. If you recall, I used far too much Bone Meal in my original mixtures, and had to transplant them both. I transplanted them both with literally no bone meal. I did this based off of what you told me. I also contacted through the Bonsai Doctor, and she told me the same thing. Now, I have the other four trees using the 1/2 part Bone Meal mixed in. The one doing the best has it in there, with the Miracid using once a week, as well as the Fish Emulsion Fertilizer. Additionally, I'm also using the little ball pellet fertilizer which I put into the soil when I first transplanted it. I can't recall the name of it right now, as it's outside in my storage area. However, on several of my trees now, the leaves are starting to turn yellowish, and I know that's due to lack of iron. But, I used it just recently, and I was under the impression that one could only use that once a month. However, it does not seem to be working. I'm wondering if I could use it again, and spray it more directly onto the leaves (as is more required).
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Old 13-Aug-2002   #9
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A lot of folks use Miracid mixed to half-strength and apply it twice as often. I really do think a couple of weeks is too soon to judge the quality of a soil or fertiliizer.

Unfortunately the appearance of yellow leaves can have numerous causes. With deep green veins on the leaf surface it may signal chlorosis, which can be a result of soil/water pH; or it may mean humidity, lighting or overfertilization problems. Pattern
yellowing of leaves can indicate other trace mineral deficiencies.

I still think 10% bone meal is way overboard. Maybe a tablespoon in an average bonsai container.

Regards,

Matt
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